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Wiring o2 Sensor to be Powered Only with Engine On
Anyone have tips on wiring a wideband o2 sensor to only be powered on when the engine is running (e.g., in tandem with the fuel pump), instead of being powered with ignition on? The generic recommendation is to “power it from the fuel pump relay,” but with the wiring of the relay being unlike most vehicles and the safety cutoff from the air metering plate brown/black wire, I’m unsure how exactly to wire the o2 sensor to come on with the fuel pump. Is it as simple as running the o2 power wire with an inline fuse to the black wire coming from terminal 30 of the fuel pump relay (the wire that goes to the fuel pump) or directly to terminal 30 of the relay? Or do I need to use a separate relay for the o2 sensor and use the fuel pump wire to switch the relay on? Is there anywhere in the engine bay to tap into for power only when the engine is running?... possibly a way to use the brown/black wire from the safety cutoff?
Surely someone has their o2 powered to be on only with the engine running, as that seems to be the widely accepted install method to ensure a long sensor life (i.e., sensor heats up as the engine heats up). I'm likely overthinking this... any help would be greatly appreciated! Specs: 1976 911s 2.7 EFI conversion (all CIS parts removed, wiring still present) Megasquirt 2 ecu running MS2extra 14point7 Spartan Lite v2 wideband controller w/Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor
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Silly question, but is this on your 911 with EFI? I don't know much about MS2, but can't you designate an output with this function and have it activate a relay to power the O2 sensor?
I have a wideband O2 sensor in my CIS car; I just flip a switch to power it... |
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Location: Franklin, TN
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On all of my race engine setups (Haltech and MoTec) we always powered on the O2 sensor when the ignition was turned on. Common practice was to turn on the ignition and wait at least 30 seconds before starting the car.
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I decided a 15 second delay was the simplest method. I’ve got my afr gauge in my ‘72 911, the car has no modern electronics besides the afr gauge. And with MfI, it sometimes takes a few tries before it’s up and running. 15 seconds means I reset the clock if I need to restart. So I’m not cycling the heater circuit in the O2 sensor nearly as much.
I used this one. https://a.co/d/a7dAduB
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Wiring o2 Sensor to be Powered Only with Engine On
Why do you want it only powered when the fuel pump is running? The sensor needs to be heated in order to operate properly and powering it with the car on allows for that.
FWIW, Here’s the wiring I had with ms2, the o2 sensor is powered from a fuse panel that powered all the efi when the car is on. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/vx8hdsgr86ypmp3z6vrhi/EFI-Wiring.pdf?rlkey=j3yhdebhvwm387jron5zdfoxc&st=rjfkhvnc&dl=0
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-Julian 1977 911 S: Backdate, EFI/ITB, AC project in the works: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1106768-when-well-enough-cant-left-alone-backdate-efi-itb-ac-more.html Last edited by Showdown; 08-08-2025 at 04:08 AM.. |
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Quote:
https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-band-airfuel-ratio-lambda-sensors-fail-often-aftermarket-performance-applications/
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I believe that Megasquirt ignores the sensor for 30 seconds after powering to avoid corrupt readings but yeah, if the mfr says to have it wired only when the car is running, follow that.
Too bad the x-factory kit is wired that way /facepalm Utilizing the outputs in MS isn’t terribly hard- you set it up in TunerStudio. The manual is pretty clear and if you need help the msextra forum is robust. (I’m away from my computer otherwise I’d help more) you’ll need a relay as the outputs are signal level voltage, not 12v. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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-Julian 1977 911 S: Backdate, EFI/ITB, AC project in the works: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1106768-when-well-enough-cant-left-alone-backdate-efi-itb-ac-more.html |
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Thanks, Julian. I will head over to the msextra forums today and post over there if I can't find what I'm looking for.
I just figured it might be easier to power it from the fuel pump relay. I reached out to DIY AutoTune and they first suggested using an unused ECU output, but then followed up with the suggestion to power it in tandem with the fuel pump, which led me to find that is what most people recommend.
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This is how the O2 sensor heater is powered on the stock 3.2. In tandem with the FP from the FP relay (called the DME relay). FP power is then fused downstream, but not the O2 sensor.
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Gilles RoW 88 Carrera coupé |
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So yeah, I would like to mimic that. Anyone know how to actually wire it like that? Last edited by lev16gt; 08-08-2025 at 06:35 AM.. |
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If you still have the stock FP relay wired with safety cutoff through the sensor plate switch, you can use terminal 30 of this relay as a source of power for the O2 sensor heater.
Terminal 30 is where the FP gets its power from. Of course there are already two wires connected to this terminal, one for the FP and one for the WUR. But you can probably piggy back one of them, preferably the black one that goes to the FP. I am referring to the diagram for 1982 SC.
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Gilles RoW 88 Carrera coupé |
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I made sure the red/white WUR power wire went to pin 10 on the 14 pin connector in the left rear then checked continuity from pin 10 to the fuel pump relay terminal 30 and all is well. So now I just need to figure out the best way to tap into the red/white wire in the engine bay, preferably at the 14 pin connector.
Anyone see anything wrong with this?
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The red/white wire in the engine harness turns ON when you turn the ignition switch to the Ignition position. Thus, it's on when the engine is not running. Your first idea, to wire it to the fuel pump, or the output of the fuel pump relay (pin 30), is the way to go. In the SC models, the pump only runs when the engine is cranking or running. IIRC, your 1976 works the same way. No need to power the O2 sensor through another relay, as the current draw of the o2 sensor is small, relative to the full pump. The fuel pump fuse is around 25 amps, but the pump draws about 10 amps or less.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! Last edited by PeteKz; 08-08-2025 at 10:29 PM.. |
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Pete, are you sure the red/white turns on when the ignition is switched on (but engine is not running)?
See the diagram below for MY76. It shows that the red/white is tied together with the black at FP relay pin 30. And at the other end, it is at the 14-pin connector in the engine bay. Hence it should follow the FP on/off cycles and could indeed be used to power the O2 sensor heater. Its gauge is only 0.5mm2, but that should be enough, since the WUR is no longer there. ![]()
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If that's the correct wiring diagram for the 1976, then you're right about it. I wasn't sure because my engine and harness are from an SC, and I know that turning the ignition on powers the CIS components. However, my car is a 1973 car, so there is probably something different about adapting the SC wiring harness to a 1973 car.
So, ignore my earlier comment.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Just wanted to post a follow up to wrap this up. The above method of picking up power from the red/white WUR wire in the engine bay at the 14-pin connector works just fine to power a wideband o2 sensor to come on only when the engine is running. As the power is coming from the fuel pump relay, it operates the same. Thanks, everyone!
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