track car suspension specs

[r lane]

I track a G body car and have played around with diff alignment setups, but too many other factors in play and have not come to a satisfactory conclusion. Tires are Hoozier 245x16 on the rear and 205/225x16 on the front. 24mm front torsion and 31 rear with 1`'' sway bar front and rear. Rear Turbo arms. Curious as to what others are using as a setup on a similar car. Any good feedback will be appreciated

[r lane]

I should have clarified, the setups I am looking for are camber, toe rake. Bob

[r lane]

Still trying different setups without real conclusive feedback. Again, curious as to what other racers with a similar car are using for camber/toe setup. Bob

[Locker537]

Ask some of the aircooled 911 cup drivers if you can.

Have you read this?

https://www.hoosiertire.com/images/content/files/TCTR7_A7(1).pdf

3 degrees camber all around.

A touch of toe out in the front to aid in turn in and good steering feel.

A touch of toe in on the rear to aid in braking stability. Or run zero toe if you like a loose car under braking.

Lots of variables. Racing or having fun at a DE? I like my tires to last and will happily trade a little pace at a DE event.

[Jeff Alton]

First,

Tell us what your current set up is. Then tell us the behaviour the car has that you would like to change.

Cheers

[r lane]

Don't know that I am experiencing a specific problem, just wondering from others what they have found to work for them. I have generally run 1.5* on the front and 2.5* in the rear. My understanding is that with rear Turbo arms you can run slightly less static camber. I went to 3* on the rear to see what that felt like and can't say that I liked it as for as an oversteer feel. There were other issues involved as well so can't conclusively say what I felt was strictly camber related. Again, just curious to see what setups others have found to work well with oversteer and stability.

[shoooo32]

I start with ride height. Small changes in ride height can make a big difference in a 911's handling characteristics. Each car has a baseline setting you should be shooting for at specific locations on the chassis (may differ from road car depending on modifications). Load the car with the amount of fuel you'd have halfway through a session.

Then corner balance. You're looking to equalize the cross weights but also look at the weight distribution. Make sure the swaybars are disconnected for this step.

Next is alignment. As Locker suggested, a whisper of toe out in front and similar amount of toe in at the rear. The more toe the more stable the car will be, but it scrubs speed and burns tires. Most 911 drivers want as much caster as the car will offer, usually 6.5-7 degrees. I adjust camber based on tire temp readings. The harder a driver pushes the tire, the warmer the outside edge will be. If it's ballooned (hottest in the middle), it's over-inflated.

Shock settings are a little more in-depth. The team I work for has a shock consultant that gives us shock dyno data and baseline adjustments for each car. From there we make minor corrections based on driver feedback, track conditions, weather, etc.

Finally, swaybars. We use these for minor corrections to the handling of the car over a weekend. Most of the cars I prep have blade style adjusters so the driver is making these adjustments during the session.

These are just generic concepts - it's hard to have a specific recipe when it comes to production based race cars that were modified from street cars. Each one is a little different as is the driver and their skills/preferences.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by shoooo32

I start with ride height. Small changes in ride height can make a big difference in a 911's handling characteristics. Each car has a baseline setting you should be shooting for at specific locations on the chassis (may differ from road car depending on modifications). Load the car with the amount of fuel you'd have halfway through a session.

Then corner balance. You're looking to equalize the cross weights but also look at the weight distribution. Make sure the swaybars are disconnected for this step.

Next is alignment. As Locker suggested, a whisper of toe out in front and similar amount of toe in at the rear. The more toe the more stable the car will be, but it scrubs speed and burns tires. Most 911 drivers want as much caster as the car will offer, usually 6.5-7 degrees. I adjust camber based on tire temp readings. The harder a driver pushes the tire, the warmer the outside edge will be. If it's ballooned (hottest in the middle), it's over-inflated.

Shock settings are a little more in-depth. The team I work for has a shock consultant that gives us shock dyno data and baseline adjustments for each car. From there we make minor corrections based on driver feedback, track conditions, weather, etc.

Finally, swaybars. We use these for minor corrections to the handling of the car over a weekend. Most of the cars I prep have blade style adjusters so the driver is making these adjustments during the session.

These are just generic concepts - it's hard to have a specific recipe when it comes to production based race cars that were modified from street cars. Each one is a little different as is the driver and their skills/preferences.

Great response!