I just found goingsuperfast on ebay, header is stuck at $800, looks nice.

ANother pelican who was doing an SC kit (rfng) was ramping production for all of the tubing and custom fab stuff, but he's disappeared :(

I still maintain, $3500-$4K worth of stuff to make this car a real tiger would be very worth it.

Actually I don't think he even got started on 3.2 stuff. Seems GoingSuperFast is filling a much sought after niche.

Keep me updated, I am so happy!

Im not trying to dampen anyones spirits but you pay for what you get

With my 3.2 turbo Mt motor runs great but my trans and clutch are Starting to go motor mounts, trans mounts oh those headers on ebay 304ss they will crack and the intercooler is only as good as it flows.

Yeah, make sure when shopping it flows better than the factory 930 intercooler....which shouldn't be too hard.

the Promotive intercooler looks incredible but it costs what l have into my entire system.l guess if l really start adding up the supporting mods l`d be into some serious money.l have less then 1000 miles on a new clutch/lightweight flywheel and rebuilt trans. Also just did full complete autocross suspension ungrade all around and big brake conversion. l had solid motor and trans mounts but took them out because l hated the noise/vibration. The "goingsuperfast" headers are made by the same guys who do B&B`s headers. l just bought a B&B set and they look identical to the superfast but mine have the heatboxes so unless the metal is different they should last just fine..

raceman, you are taking the correct route to "HP heaven". Trust me, you won't look back once it's all in and running. The only problem with these conversions is that you WILL want more and more. BTDT :D

Your "saving grace" is that Intercooler. As long as you are above 70% efficiency, you'll be OK at that compression ratio @ 0.7bar. The factory 930 unit only runs at ~14% efficiency, but I guess at that C/R and relatively low boost of 0.8bar, it doesn't need to be much more than that. It's only when you start running big boost where you need a more efficient IC.

Keep us posted on your developments. It should be a nice setup with those headers ;)

14% efficiency? Are you sure? That's truly pathetic. A drunk man urinating on the intake pipe would generate 14% efficiency. Sheesh!!! :p
Jürgen

Yup, that's the efficiency those run at! Have a look in Bruce Anderson's Performance Handbook. Truely shocking! Might as well not have an IC at that efficiency :eek:

raceman, yeah, it was the cutting and welding that put me off. i can weld mild steel but i think i would make a mess of the project.

the proto kits start at $5k so it will be interesting to see how yours compares.

i look forward to seeing it progress.

Better than I thought. I heard from a few sources it was 13%

Race: Can hardly wait for those detailed pics. :)

Don't need no stinkin intercooler for apps under 8.5 CR and 9psi and the right fuel.

Pump it up!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1080844463.jpg

Lots of cheap intercoolers on ebay, perhaps they could be adapted. Ricers love nothing more than an intercooler, and when they smash up their 350hp civic, the first thing they dump is the turbo components ;)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7913411079&catego ry=33742

Be very careful! I wouldn't settle for anything less than a full length Intercooler for your configuration. You'll need every cubic inch you can fit under that tail to keep the intake charge as low as possible at that compression ratio and boost pressure. How's 29" x 10" x 3.5" sound?

I would advise against trying to drain into the valve cover.
The longer the run the lower you need to go, plus the G forces would push the oil back in the line towards the turbo, ask me how I know. Big smoke cloud.
Drain back into the lowest corner of the chain tensioner cover, that will work.

Update on RFNG's SC turbo, elsewhere on pelican.

He abandonded the project, said there wasn't enough interest. Sad to see that development stop :(

but... I love this thread! I'd love to see you'all develop a spec/manual (people would even pay for it, I would!) towards turboing a 3.2.

Raceman,
i too bought the header from the Goingsuperfast guy.(back-doored the ebay auction)
i spoke with him and he explained that the header is in fact from the same co. that makes the B&B units.

here is his email to me just today actually....

"I have the same company who makes B&B header for me and I have a intercooler company build the intercooler for me . I'm not a good welder.

I have 7 - 8 machine shop and muffler company to work with.

This factory makes the header for Boxster, 993 and 996."

anyway,
ive never heard of 304 SS cracking...maybe with the weight of a turbo on it without a actual support.

though nicely built, i do not care for the way the two sides of the headers connect though.... i think ill add a pair of flanges there myself.

in all, the workmanship is quite impressive for $850.00

Maybe only the headers with the heat exchangers around it cracks, due to the heat over a prolonged period?

IMO, you don't even need "turbo" headers. I'm running the factory heat exchangers with a "J" pipe bolted to it which interfaces to the turbocharger. It's an "on-the-side" system, meaning, the turbo sits beside the engine next to the #1 and #2 cylinder. At that C/R and boost pressure, you hardly notice any lag. Full boost by 3.5k and pre-boost driveability is like any naturally aspirated 3.2 :D It's not the ideal turbo header system, but if you are doing this on a budget, that's the cheapest way. The J pipe would cost you about $300, or even LESS if you have some welding skillz ;)

david.avery, the bolt-on capability of these turbo kits for the 3.2 wouldn't be possible without the extensive R&D Protomotive put into developing the Motronic CHIP's fuel & ignitions maps and their rising rate boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator. Without it, you would have to rip out the whole Motronic system and purchase an aftermarket Engine Management System. Then it wouldn't be a true "bolt-on" system and would cost significantly more to setup :eek:

merv, are you still running the J pipe on stage 3?

i was looking at the "on the side" kit from proto as its the cheapest way to start out (and very simple) but didnt think that would be a good basis for future upgrades?

WydRyd, thanks for the note... from what I've read, I would definitely go with their chip and regulator.

The question in my mind is whether it would be better to sell my engine & DME for $4500-5000 and go 3.6 (which I've done two 911's ago). Figure 7500 for the motor and 2500 for parts = approx 5K outlay.

Ideally, I would like to put out no more than $3500 and treat this as a winter project. I'll keep an eye on this one closely :)