Fitting 6 speed G50 to '89 Carrera

[Iciclehead]

Well, I got the rear storage locker all mocked up. Way more work that what I had hoped but the result is exactly what I wanted.

So, here is the original, disassembled unit, ready for fitting new "wings" on it to fit the earlier chassis. Of course it is good marine plywood, used biscuits and everything, plus a pile of epoxy to join. I fibreglassed the upper deck and the biggest stress point (where the brackets that tie the unit into the rear seat belt bolts are located)









Little bit of sanding, little fooling around, fits like a glove. This was the easy part, the harder part was the cupholders... here is the finished, mocked up result. Note that the centre part will get covered in vinyl, so the white ABS that I used to fabricate the lower section of the finishing panel will disappear. I tried to get black ABS, but no luck.



It works well, note the two little divots right below the actual cup holder assembly. They are needed to allow the foot of the holders to fold all the way downwards, that gives some spacing to more securely hold the cup/bottle or what have you



Here the holder is extended, the feet fitting nicely into the divots.

[Iciclehead]

And here it is holding an actual object...water bottle in this case. Seems pretty secure and acceptably handy. My biggest issue in driving longer distances in the 911 is less about holding coffee and more about holding bottles of water that are reasonably reachable. This does the trick I think...







Back side took a lot of fiddling but not too hard. The VW holder assembly has a couple of tangs to locate it laterally and longitudinally, just made a couple of bent pieces of sheet metal with appropriate slots and such, holds on very well.

Note also I made a new centre plywood support as the 964 is different. Had to slot it for the holder.





All the ABS work was just heat gun, hand forming, built a little wooden form for the divots, nothing too dramatic. Just took time.

I think it is mocked up well enough to go on to the next task, there are a bunch of alignment issues that have ability to do once we are in final assembly. Right now it is good enough to say "done".

Dennis

[Iciclehead]

Guys, just read another thread about backdating, did not want to mess up his thread, but since I ended up taking a radically different approach to mounting the rear bumpers, thought I would put a bunch of pictures into this thread of what I did....

[Iciclehead]

[Iciclehead]

[911 tweaks]

anything new to report...??

[Iciclehead]

Sorry guys, but going through some personal issues so do not have access to the car nor the ability to work on it. It is a situation I am hoping to rectify in the near term, so hope to continue.

Appreciate the interest, must admit this thread is getting so old and has been surpassed by others so frequently that is nice to see some interest.

Be well,

Dennis

[Cairo94507]

Dennis I wish you the best. This is an incredible build thread. I just spent 2 cups of coffee reading it. As others have said, leaves me speechless. Just amazing. Best wishes. Michael

[strudelwagon]

Dennis,
i just discovered you build thread. great section on all metal bumpers and hoping to see more soon.
Swing by if you're ever in the Okanagan.
Steve
Summerland

[Iciclehead]

Hi guys, been somewhat down and out with some trials in my personal life, but have been working from time to time.

Latest project is the cross brace for the front. I read all the stuff and looked at all the products and decided to do it myself. The tubing is flat oval that I ended up sourcing out of Holland and as it turns out, it was wider than the nice Restoration Designs brackets.

Anyway, one of the major requirements was that I left as much clearance as possible under the brace to put in luggage as my idea is still to tour with the car at some point. So two things, one to fit it as close to the frunk lid as possible and make the "X" part easily liftable which means I will hinge it onto the perpendicular brace (may also serve as a support for the frunk lid)
Anyway, here is the perpendicular brace


Bends on this was just brute force with the vice

Here are the ends...




Note where I had to neck the flat oval down. I used shoulder bolts (10 mm diameter with 40 mm shoulder length) along with bronze bushings in the perpendicular brace tubing to make a nice fit. I know that the bracket looks a little askew, but a whack with the hammer will get it back into line, it got a little bent in the furor of fitting.

There is some finishing to be done on these, but I will wait until the cross brace gets put in

Here are the bended cross brace tubes, I used my lift to do the bends (filled them with sand to prevent kinking) and then just lowered the truck tire on them until the bent the required amount...

Bends are pretty even and this will give a bit more clearance in the luggage side of things.



More to follow...

Dennis

[Iciclehead]

oops, for some reason the perpendicular brace photo did not load...

Here it is...

[SexOnTheBeach]

Wow, lots of years with these mods!!!......ohhh what a relief will be!!!

[palle7688]

Any news on this build.
Awesome to read

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Originally Posted by Iciclehead

did not want to mess up his thread,

Waaay of topic but great fab work - well done!!

[Iciclehead]

I am humbled by your compliments...truly guys (blush, blush). I guess my dad taught me the feel of metal better than I ever realized 50 years ago when I worked in his blacksmith shop. He was a craftsman....

Anyway, I have been having a few personal issues, but I have started the painting process. Intention is to keep the factory primer as the clearcoat is checked, but the basic paint on the car is solid and in pretty well perfect shape.

The new areas like the place where I welded in the sunroof and took off the drip rails will need proper from the metal up painting, but the rest is just a sealer coat of medium build primer and then on to the sanding...and sanding....and sanding.....and sanding......sigh.

Anyway, a few pic's of the current state.

[Iciclehead]

Long, long, long time between updates but finally making progress again.

I tried to do the sanding thing to use the existing paint as a base as it was in pretty good shape except for checking on the clear coat. Well, after far too many hours sanding, I gave up. The car is slated to go off for plastic bead blasting inside and out over the next few days, i will post pornographic pictures of naked Porsche bodies when I get it back into my garage.

Its been an interesting journey, first being unable to find anyone willing to get the car painted for me, then finding one kind soul who was willing and capable, but for which the timing did not work, to back to doing it myself.

I think I am happiest doing it myself.....

Dennis

[Rodney Nelson]

Hi Dennis,

Great, thread I just read it all! Please keep me posted on the how the bead blasting went, I would love to see pictures. I'm back dating my 1972 from a front date... agh.

Thanks,

Rodney

[Iciclehead]

Well guys, I love my girls naked and this one is no exception. Here she is, stripped down to her essential self, all of her curves, folds and crevices on display to the world, not a modicum of modesty.






That's the good part, a fair amount of work to do what with the odd part that the blaster did not get (plastic plugs, hood hinges etc), so that will take a good part of the day.

Bad part (but long term good) is that plastic bead blasting erodes lead body filler so there is a little work to be done there, thinking a very thin skim of plastic and it will be good, otherwise I might just let the primer take care of it. I will mull it over the evening.

Also, there are a couple of pinholes in the spots where the drip rails were removed, I suspect that the metal was very thin there, what with my grinding and playing around since welding that joint was such a PITA, so the blast just punched through a few weak spots. Good thing in many ways, I would rather catch it now rather than having a blemish appear later once the finish is on it.




Anyway, order of events is weld up any spots that need it. Strip any little parts of paint remaining, then seam seal everything again.

Once the seam sealer cures (could be overnight....YIKES) then I have settled on a paint combination.

The high chromate Glasurit primer (801-71) is not available in Alberta due to environmental issues, so based on the discussion with the Glasurit tech rep, I am using 801-73, the low VOC version that he swears is just as good.

Then I will load it with the 285-20 DTM, one because I have it and second as if there is a tiny bit of bare metal exposed after the -73 then the DTM will take care of it.

Then sand, then re-prime, then sand, then re-prime and go from there. More pics to follow.

Dennis

[Iciclehead]

Well, shall we say progress has been overtaken by events. The rewelding of the various little pits on the drip rail removal took a whole day.

Various other minor bits of cleanup took up another half.

Then the nightmare of removing all the plastic beads that are in the many, many, many closed compartments in the 911 chassis. I took out at least a half bucketful off the floor after I blew compressed air into every hole I could find and there is at least that much in the vacuum. Amazing amount, but thankfully the beads are all small enough to make it out through the exits that appear to be in every one of those compartments. I guess it makes sense....every compartment needs a hole to let out whatever water might get in.

Anyway, dust everywhere, lots of clean up and probably three rounds of wipedown at least before the ecoat/DTM go on.

...and this work thing keeps getting in the way....sigh...

Dennis

[Rodney Nelson]

Hi Dennis,

After you got it bead blasted do you need to primer in between when you are doing your metal work and when you are ready to send it to paint? I'm basically doing exactly what you are doing and live in Arizona so the environment is very dry and not prone to rust and I'm wondering if I can take a couple of months to do my repairs and body work after stripping and then send it to paint. Or do I have to worry about surface rust starting to form?

Thanks,

Rodney