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Quote:
As to the 2nd snippet above, some of us drummer-types may take umbrage at that assertion
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
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Quote:
Randy, Basically yes. I would substitute your word “moderate” for “extreme.” We are talking about maximum breaking at the limit of traction and still being able to not lock up the tires. The "right amount” is difficult to quantify. Too rigid tends to lock up tires easily. Too spongy is uncomfortable to drive. As most know, locking up the tires feels equivalent to suddenly running on grease. The braking effectiveness is dramatically reduced and you loose all steering input. If the rears lock up, you loop it. That is the reason for ABS. When I’m talking about race situations, envision a Cup Car race at Las Vegas. Say only 90F and the 4000’ thin air. The rotors are cherry red all the time. Porsche tries to build in as much safety margin as possible without added weight and within the rules. Anyone who has driven proper race cars knows how poor the braking is when cold. This is from three factors; cold race tires, cold pads that only work properly hot, and very rigid (SS lines) with freshly bleed hydraulics. The warm-up lap is to get the engine, transmission, tires, and brakes up to temperature. I typically run the first part of the lap with my left foot on the brake. How long and how hard depends on the ambient temperature among other. I don’t have any scientific data or studies to back up my assertion. This is purely anecdotal based on my personal experience and talking with others. I’m sure some others who have experience braking at the limit can chime in here. Best, Grady |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Oregun
Posts: 10,040
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That's interesting....
I used the term 'right amount' to mean: the amount that gives enough feedback to the driver to allow proper modulation of the pedal... All science starts with anecdotal observations... the experiments come later .. and in some fields not at all...
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"A man with his priorities so far out of whack doesn't deserve such a fine automobile." - Ferris Bueller's Day Off |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: City of Seattle, WA
Posts: 3,374
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I would like to know whether the factory race cars are using rubber or teflon lines under the stainless. The stainless braid is probably a good idea for cut protection on frequently maintained race cars, but most people feel that if there is a "firmer" feel from the "stainless" lines, it's because most (but not all) of them use a teflon line instead of rubber underneath the SS sheath.
FWIW, I'm using fresh OEM rubber and don't intend to change.
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Andy |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Saratoga, NY,USA
Posts: 220
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I can'y believe what i'm reading here, Porsche brakes are great BECAUSE they have so little compliance, less id better here.
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Galivants Ferry, SC
Posts: 10,550
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Kahuna..
I think you're reading too much into this...the point Grady is making is a matter of degree....not that you would want purposefully spongy response. Wil
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Wil Ferch 85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten ) |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maitland, Florida
Posts: 892
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I used to road race motorcycles and one of the few mods you could do on a production class racer was to substitute stainless brake lines for the oem rubber lines. Using gloved fingers for brake acutation gives finer control than using a foot in a shoe. Stainless lines were a signifcant improvement in brake feel and control.
Those things were quick, light and intense. Hard braking lofted the rear wheel and you'd have to have a pretty fierce 911 to accellerate as hard. When I rebuilt the brake system on my 911, I used stainless lines and I'm happy with them. Regards, Jerry Kroeger
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82 911SC Targa (05 Boxster S ) gone, but not forgotten 87 Suzuki GSXR-1100 1953 MG TD Mk II |
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