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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Marshfield, Ma.
Posts: 368
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Early Quarter Window Seals
Anyone know a trick to soften up, make more pliable quarter window seals - must be something that would work?
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83 SC 1969T, 2.8 RS spec. Wailing Wench (Sold) rgruppe #506 s reg. #1009 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: South of the Mason-Dixon Line
Posts: 3,722
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I replaced mine on my 1973.5T last year. Once the window is off, its a BEAR to get these on
Plan on the "stretch armstrong" approach. Starting at one corner might be better over the other. They will go on and will look great after the work is done, but I am not aware of any magic bullet here. Its pure brawn...unless of course someone else chimes in with some microwave or dipping recipe to soften these us!Good luck............be patient Bob 1973.5T
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 44,770
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soak in bathtub hot water for an hour.
happy you. angry wife.
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Tru6 Restoration & Design |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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lanolin is your savour.. it's an oil from sheeps wool. i don't know how freely available it is in the USA but it worked wonders on my seals from the 60s.. brings them back from the dead.
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Adelaide Australia
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Oh such a fun job.....
Warm rubber and powdered graphite worked for me. Oh and book in for some therapy for the day after this job
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'74 RS 3.0 Replica Porsche 968 Clubsport SOLD '70 911E Bahia Red SOLD '71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 Twin plug BEAST SOLD
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Denver
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Bright lights. I worked in front two quartz work lights - the type that you can get from Home Depot that are mounted on a pedestal. They throw off a lot of heat, and keep the seal soft the whole time that you are working. As a lube, try glycerin - very slippery and water soluable so there is no oily residue to deal with.
I started at the sharpest corner, and worked around the curve and did the flat front edge last. The front edge makes the rest look easy. Two keys for me were 1. dont't over-lube the seal. The fit of the seal in the window frame is very shallow and if the seal is too slippery it won't lock in. 2. use a narrow blunt tool to push the seal into place. You need to focus pressure from the outside in directly over the channel. If the seal is soft enough and you can get enough focused pressure it goes right in. Once I figured this out, it took about 15 minutes to do the curved part of the seal. The flat front edge took about another hour per side -- same technique, but the seal is a lot harder to push into place. Good luck -- Joe
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Joe Frantz 73 911 T |
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+1 on the therapy I just did this for a 73, and sorry to say no short cuts here
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Midwest R Gruppe
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I soaked mine in hot, soapy water for about a 1/2 hour. I used a paint can opener - the kind with a loop on the handle end and a flat 90 degree bend on the business end - to insert the seal into the window frame. No big deal and took about 30 minutes for the first and 20 minutes for the second. I am assuming that you are talking about the outer seals on the rear quarter windows. If not, then nevermind.
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Scott 69E Coupe 2.2S LtWt 73.5T Coupe |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Marshfield, Ma.
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Thanks Guys for you thoughts on this. Here's what I've come up with from your ideas
1) Book therapy appt 2) Start project 3 days before appt. 3) draw hot bath for wife (or Seals, or both) 4) lubricate - but not to much 5) invite knowledgable friend to help for beers. (for seals not wife) I'm hoping to be able to save these seals, recondition them and re-install as I can't believe the price for new! thanks again - Paul
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83 SC 1969T, 2.8 RS spec. Wailing Wench (Sold) rgruppe #506 s reg. #1009 |
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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Quote:
My personal trick, lewd jokes aside, was a light coat of sil-glide and then tapping the seal into the channel with a mallet. Started at the curved end and worked out to the corners. To be honest I don't think I spent more than 30 minutes on this. It was really really not bad at all.
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Several BMWs |
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