Targa front seal

SVKarl · 05-19-2008, 07:52 PM

I have an 84 Targa and got a new and correct front seal from Dan Petchel of Cars Inc. I have searched the forum and can't seem to find a definitive step by step narrative on removal and replacement of the seal so if one is out there maybe someone could point me in that direction.

Specifically, It appears that the PO had one of the correct number, wrong size seals put on years ago and the result is that the top sits a bit high, creating wind noise, gaps at the two wing window tops, and squeaking. Also, as an aside at some point he apparently had the top reskinned by a fairly good upholsterer but the guy (actually Guy in Portland) was no Dan.

Anyway, it looks to me that the first step is to remove the two stamped sheet metal covers across top of the windshield header. Along the sides the seal seems to tuck under some trim vinyl along the A pillar so I am wondering if there is some particular way to get the seal out from under there without disturbing the vinyl. I am also looking for a good way to remove the nasty glue someone used on the existing seal; it is kind of a yellow hard material the got everywhere.

Last, some advice on the reinstallation, including specific recommendations on adhesive (or not) would help.

I may try to post some photos of the before tomorrow. I will also document the process either way.

By the way, The newly refurbished top arrived from Dan today and I can see why he is the only source for this. His work is amazing. This thing is absolutely perfect. Hence the need to fix the seal.

Thanks in advance,
Karl

Zef · Zef's Garage

PM sent with the Porsche Service Manual attached....

SVKarl · 05-20-2008, 07:15 AM

Thanks Syl, I have the manual and amusingly, the section discussing the front seal basically says remove and re install. That's not quite fair but the specific questions above are not addressed, so I am looking for a bit more depth. Did not get a PM.

Thanks
Karl

Zef · Zef's Garage

Sorry...re sent it now...

Rouxzy · 05-20-2008, 10:17 AM

I would contact Dan Petchel, where you bought it. Dan is a great guy and I wouldn't be surprised if he doesn't already have a step by step procedure done up that he can just e-mail to you.
Tom

Mysterytrain · 05-20-2008, 10:31 AM

I might have read somewhere or maybe I just have been thinking about how I am going to do mine..but I think you want to dry fit it first and perhaps work from the center of the windshield to each of the corners. Once, you have the positioning correct, remove and repeat with glue. Then again, I might be totally wrong on this. I'm looking forward to your adventure because mine will also happen soon.
I'll add a couple of more questions..What adhesive? And is the glue applied to the rubber and the frame and left to set up [like contact cement] before installing? If that is the case then you won't be apply to reposition the seal once it contacts the frame???

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

I removed every bit of the old adhesive and used a water bottle spray to make certain of the fit. The water seem to allow the seal to squeeze in better. IN fact I have not used glue at all but will do later. Amazingly I have no issues but the top does fit much better than before.

I decided to allow the seal to adjust to the frame then later remove and repeat with the adhesive. The water will evaporate over time so I was not concerned. The fit of the seal is so good it appears it needs very little adhesive. My 2 cent observations.

My installation steps:

Corners first then the sides then top. Corners are the most important for a proper fit to the top. YOu may need to trim the end of the side on the new seal or door frame. BUt make certain it seals at the door. Use the water technic to make fine adjustments. If the side seal is too high you will get wind noise.. Open and close the door and you will see if there is a gap or light coming through.

Even before this step, I eye balled the top, window and frame by aligning the window before I installed the seal to get a base to adjust from. Gosh, I hope I made sense?

SVKarl · 05-20-2008, 04:20 PM

Any tricks on the sides, specifically tucking the seal behind the vinyl?
Karl

Paul K · Paul K's Garage

If someone could post a step-by-step on how to do this, preferably with pictures, that would be great. I'm in the same boat. See this thread- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=409888
But I am not sure if all replacement seals are the same?

Cheers,

Paul.

SVKarl · 05-20-2008, 07:51 PM

Paul, there are a number of posts by Dan Petchel (search carsinc) where he describes that the available seals have the correct part number but are not the correct seal. Dan has created the correct seal and offers them at very reasonable price. It is my understanding that other than if someone has an inventory prior to the old one being superceeded, other new ones are incorrect and cause the top to sit too high, causing wind noise and gaps over the quarter windows. On my car, an 84 the PO apparently had done the replacement and that's why my old top fits pretty poorly, although did not really leak despite gaps you could see through above the quarters. I adjusted the side glass to fit pretty well but at the front it still sat too high.

I was hoping to get some info but looks like its lone ranger time. I will be into this in a couple weeks so I will post the step by step then
Karl

Paul K · Paul K's Garage

Karl:

I'll get hold of Dan and will order a new seal from him. Did you check out my post to see what mine looks like? I think the gaps are the problem. Anyhow, are you a member of the PCA? We have 'Arrive & Drive' events every month- great fun. Pics from the last one on the PNW forum. Anyhow, good luck with your project- hope it works out!

Paul.

SVKarl · 05-21-2008, 06:31 AM

I signed up with PCA when I first got my car. Can't seem to figure out why to keep it going, Pano is completely worthless. Tech help is eighth grade compared to graduate level here, not interested in putting my daily driver on a track. I do plan on joining a couple of arrive and drives but I doubt I will renew my membership unless I can figure out what possible benefit there is.
Karl

Paul K · Paul K's Garage

Karl:

Next Arrive & Drive is June 14th. I can PM you details if you're interested. I really enjoy them.

Cheers,

Paul.

SVKarl · 05-21-2008, 12:21 PM

I am on the email list and get Anziger so the only excuse is mine. Might try to be there though. Our region does have a reputation for being quite welcoming so I really don't have any excuse.
Karl

Paul K · Paul K's Garage

From the website:

We rendezvous at Miller's Homestead Restaurant at 17933 SW McEwan Road in Tigard OR 97224 at 8:00 am for a no-host breakfast. Driving instructions begin at 9:00 and first car out is at 9:15. Get ready for some great driving experiences in your favorite sports car, along with 50 or more fellow enthusiasts.

June 14th.

See you there.

Paul.

Charlie V · Charlie V's Garage

Just did mine last weekend....

Remove the hardware - 9 screws if I remember. Remove the old seal. Caution when you get to the door seals - mine were glued together. I actually replaced the door seals as well.

Clean the metal seal channel with adhesive cleaner. A little on a cloth each time and lots of elbow grease.

Position the new seal in the channel and check for centre. I used a sharpie to mark the centre point of the seal. Pull the seal out and apply seal adhesive to the metal and the seal as per the directions on the adhesive tube. Best to have a couple of sets of hands. Start from the centre and work out. I had to stretch the seal a little to make it fit at the corners.

Reattach the hardware after I sanded and painted mine rattle can stain black.

Fairly simple project. I find it best to take your time and enjoy the project.

Cheers.

SVKarl · 05-21-2008, 08:35 PM

Charlie, that is what I was looking for. One question: along the sides, on my car the seal seems to be tucked under vinyl trim that runs between the windshield glass rubber seal and the portion of the front targa seal that attaches to the A pillar. Any issues with either the removal or re installation? Any tricks you used to either keep the vinyl from pulling off the pillar or when installing the new seal, getting the seal back behind the vinyl? That's the basic question I had when starting the thread.

Karl

Charlie V · Charlie V's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVKarl

Charlie, that is what I was looking for. One question: along the sides, on my car the seal seems to be tucked under vinyl trim that runs between the windshield glass rubber seal and the portion of the front targa seal that attaches to the A pillar. Any issues with either the removal or re installation? Any tricks you used to either keep the vinyl from pulling off the pillar or when installing the new seal, getting the seal back behind the vinyl? That's the basic question I had when starting the thread.

Karl

The vinyl should be glued to the metal and the seal goes over top of it. I would gently pull the seal off. If the vinyl pulls off too, gently remove it from the seal as you work along it. The usual cleaning of the metal surface should be done. Be really careful here because you can screw up the rest of the contact cement on the vinyl or the vinyl itself - that is one of the reasons I'm going back to the upholstery shop. I would then glue the vinyl with contact cement. Let this dry and then glue in the seal.

As i mentioned before - work slowly and enjoy the project. And, have fun.

gtihop · gtihop's Garage

Is there any way to tell whether the targa seal is an aftermarket one or oem. My top sits about 3/8 too high in front, has gap over vent windows. I don't know if it was ever changed by PO. Would really like to make it fit right if possible.

SVKarl · 05-22-2008, 08:47 PM

Charlie, great advice, thank you.

gtihop, I looked all over the one I got from Dan and there don't seem to be any numbers on it. Remember, the seal Dan has made is not OEM. Current OEM seals are the problem, they are for later year cars and don't fit ours correctly, causing the roof to sit too high.

Karl