Backdating my heat. Help :).

[Mr.Puff]

I have already removed the blower from the engine bay. Should I also remove the blowers inside the footwells? If I do remove those blowers should I also remove the leavers between the seats or do those just act to open and close flaps? What would happen if I removed all fans and the switch connecting the little yellow wire to the leavers in the center?

Thanks,
Mr. Puff

[Mr.Puff]

Found my solution to retain defrosters . Just a simple tube routed from the heater to the defroster which will eliminate all the fresh air stuff .

[SCWDP911]

I started this project today as well. I did not think you had to remove anythign but the crap in the back as far as fans and motors are concerned.

I bought a whole set of early tinware from jwernquist, but then the more research I did, the more my DIY impulses took over. I have thought about modifying the existing SC ducts for awhile, and then I found the set that Jon had for sale. They have sat on my "things to do" shelf for a few months. So, that time gave me time to think some more, and then I saw a thread where Sal (scarcellar) modified the right side duct and it turned out great.

I have the right side mods pretty much done except for cleanup. I will be doing a writeup on it soon. The next trick for me is the left side. It will be more work but I think I can accomplish what I am after with some FG work... hope to anyway. If it does not look right, I will put the early duct on the right side.

My goal is to do a "poor man's heater backdate" that looks like it might be factory. My more defined goal is to do the entire job for less than $20. We shall see.

Good luck with your project. Are you using SCAT for your tubing?

[911 Dog]

Shane,

Post some picks if it works out.

I have been kicking around the idea of making some new tin for the backdate, so I would be interested in what you come up with.

$20. I have.

[jwernquist]

All you need to do is remove the blower from the back, add the left and right ducts and your good, no need to remove the footwell blowers.

JW

Shane how is it coming?

[SCWDP911]

so far I have $5 into it with a 2" 90 PVC fitting (actually had a spare one lying around). I epoxied it onto the tin after cutting a hole in it. I laid the tin flat on a paper, then positioned the PVC 90 and then used JB weld epoxy to bond the two together. I have pics, but will have to post later. I will do it in a separate thread. Next will be cleanup and paint. Still playing around with what to do on the left side. One problem I have is that my left side SC duct has some dry rot areas on some of the edges, so I eitehr need a better SC duct to start with, or just move on to the early duct. I will try to start my own thread later tonight with pics.

Sorry for the hijack Mr. Puff.

[Monza_dh]

There a number of detailed threads on this subject. It all depends on how far you want to go and i f you are installing SSI's etc. I just did this on my 3.2 and kept the exchangers and cross over tube and purchased the left side socket and some aircraft hose. It works perfect.

I also purchased a used heat control module that I plan to modify to get the footwell blowers to work as well. A perfect mod to do before I change my fuel lines since it would have all needed to come out anyway.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=220695&highlight=heat+backdate

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=417324&highlight=heat+backdate

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=388445&highlight=heat+backdate

[SCWDP911]

OK< here are a few pics of the RHS duct. As I said, the LHS has some issues, so not sure what I am doing there yet.

The uncut duct still in place...


the PVC pieces being used (about $5 worth)...


the hole has been cut. I thopught about using this grommet instead, but bagged the idea as my hole is low enough (to get the tubing as low as possible under the AC Compressor) that the grommet had clearance issues and would not work...


Everything epoxied into place. Not sure if I am going to use the small extension PVC piece into the shroud area or not. I had to cut the 2 inch 90 so that it would not protrude in the shroud cavity when expoxied into place (for clearance again)...


The grabage you see is part of the paper that came off when it had cured enough to move it...


The epoxied piece in for a trial fit...


As compared to the early tin Jon sent me...


Still need to clean it up and paint, but need to wait til it fully cures.

[SCWDP911]

Ooh, I forgot I also have a Thome Fitzpatrick FG LHS duct I bought a while back from 84CAB on the board here. I think it is in my truck. Maybe I will use it until I figure out the SC piece...

[911 Dog]

Is there any kind of ducting (deflector) to direct the air to the heat exchanger or is it just a flat surface on the backside with the hole cut out or is it a rectangular opening? (I'm talking about the last pic to the left) OG part.

[SCWDP911]

yeah, it goes through the tin and then flattens outto liek a vacuum cleaner nozzle opening... turned toward center I think

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by 911 Dog

Is there any kind of ducting (deflector) to direct the air to the heat exchanger or is it just a flat surface on the backside with the hole cut out or is it a rectangular opening? (I'm talking about the last pic to the left) OG part.

I did this mod myself a while back using PVC elbow as well and it worked just fine. You don't need to worry to much about deverting the air because the pressure inside the engine shroud is really high and air will simply flow through the elbow without any issue. Plus the 84-89 cars have the footwell blowers also pulling/sucking the air into the cabin. My 84 has tons of heat with this setup even in 10 deg weather I have to turn the heat down.

[Mr.Puff]

Originally Posted by DW SD

On the 3.2L, I have SSi's and backdated the heat as well as simplified it to simply Defrost. I used Thom Fitzpatrick's FG parts as well as some tin work. (see picture) Came out very clean. I believe you'd be plenty warm in California or Florida at least with a similar system. To remove the air box upfront, you'd need to build a block off plate for the cowl inlet, which I'm going to do soon (so rain doesn't collect in the trunk).

I deleted my controls from the dash and the fan box, footwell mixing boxes, etc. This is a VERY clean solution. I just roll the windows down for vent fresh air and pull the heat levers which control the flapper for defrost / heat. With my SSi's, the defrost is obvious at idle. I think it would work fine in the worst San Diego Winter ;-) At speed it blazes from the defrost ports.

This setup should be easy to test for you and is easy to re-install the stock stuff later.

As far as actually doing the back date in the engine compartment...... When I back-dated the engine tins, I actually reused the Carrera ones on the side, but cut of about 3" to fit those pieces which allow the heater ducts to pass through (measure to be exact, but it is really straightforward - especially if the motor is out. Once I cut them, I had to drill holes to allow the add-on pass through tins to bolt together with my "new" backdated (chopped) Carrera tins. You really only need those pass through pieces + the FG ducting on the fan to back date. I fabricated a plate to cover the hole left by the AC compressor bracket and to cover the hole left by the old blower motor duct. The original pieces had nuts welded on the back side. I just just M6 with nyloc nuts on the back side. Welding the nuts on the backside seemed overkill and would melt the nylon anyways.

Just track down a Left and Right pass through ducting and you are golden. Hope that helps!!

Here are some photos which shed a bit of light.

No worry about hijacks here; It is all relevant. I am thinking about doing something like this .

--Puff

[911 Dog]

Hey Puff,

When you get done with the project make sure to post some pics and let us know if your engine temp drops.

I am always curious if you do indeed lower engine temps when doing a backdate.

Dave

[Mr.Puff]

Well, right now my car is overheating . So after all this work (I am doing $6,000 worth of upgrades), hopefully it will not have this problem anymore .