replacing seized clutch cable on 1985 911

heiltrading · 09-24-2009, 09:29 AM

when trying to pull out the clutch cable it became seriously stuck. I had to hook up a tow rope and another car to rip it out. Now I have the cable completely out but it left some the cable shielding behind

. So when i try to install a new cable it gets about 10" in and stops. Any ideas on how i can reinstall the cable??? Need to find a way to clean out the metal tube the holds the cable.

theiceman · 09-24-2009, 10:16 AM

i wonder what you pulled out .. since the 85 is a hydraulic clutch

yelcab1 · 09-24-2009, 10:25 AM

85 is NOT hydraulic, it is still cable. 87 is hydraulic with the G50 transmission.

theiceman · 09-24-2009, 10:30 AM

oh sorry , thought the Carreras went hydraulic ,, anyway whatever is in their is jammed good if you had to pull it out with another car.

How about getting some fish tape ( which is basically steel wound up used by electricians ) and pushing it back the other way to see if you can force anything out ?

Kevin Taylor · Kevin Taylor's Garage

Did you take the little nut off the end?

K.T.
1973 911 E 2.4 MFI
1983 911 SC
1978 911 SC
1965 Devin "D" / 1967 912 Power Plant
1998 GMC Serra 4X4 Z71
John Deere LT166
Money Can Buy Happiness........Buy A Porsche......a

heiltrading · 09-24-2009, 10:49 AM

yes the nut was removed and the attachment clamp... i believe there is built up rust or something inside the steel tube. i purchased a 3/8 4ft drill bit from home depot over lunch today in hopes that i can clean up the inside of the tube tonght.

theiceman · 09-24-2009, 10:51 AM

do you think you will be able to get it in there with the engine in the way ? time for rotor rooter

heiltrading · 09-24-2009, 10:51 AM

i wonder if the steel tube has a dent it the middle of it??? Not sure how that would happen but who knows.

heiltrading · 11:06 AM

The drill bit is pretty felxible so it should be able to clear the motor, the tube is .359" and the bit is .375" so i will have to take it down with the grinder some. I am just worried if the tube is not striaght i will get stuck. does any one know if the tube path is straight??

heiltrading · 09-24-2009, 02:30 PM

as suspected: cable liner bunched up inside housing, took almost 30 min to drill out

Kevin Taylor · Kevin Taylor's Garage

Good Job. Just did a cable job on my 1978 recently.

K.T.
1973 911 E 2.4 MFI
1983 911 SC
1978 911 SC
1965 Devin "D" / 1967 912 Power Plant
1998 GMC Serra 4X4 Z71
John Deere LT166
Money Can Buy Happiness........Buy A Porsche......a

heiltrading · 09-28-2009, 01:07 PM

my pedal does not seem to return back all the way to resting position. is this due to a omega spring being worn out? Seems easy to disengage the clutch, in term of foot pressure.

yelcab1 · 09-28-2009, 01:33 PM

You need to properly adjust the clutch first. If that is all set, then maybe it is the omega spring.

Flat6pac · 09-28-2009, 03:46 PM

The petal will come up when you adjust the outer housing at the bottom of the trans forcing the shield forward. the futher forward you move it the higher the petal rises then the engagement follows.
Bruce

heiltrading · 10-06-2009, 08:18 AM

can you describe the outer housing? does this housing hold the omega spring?

heiltrading · 10-06-2009, 08:20 AM

i measured to make sure i have 25.4mm of clutch throw and 1.0mm of clearing between the clutch arms. why the heck does the pedal feel like mush....

mpetry · mpetry's Garage

it's the black tube that runs from the bulkhead (in front of the trans) to the mounting flange on the transmission itself. It has 2 locknuts on a threaded sleeve. Did you replace this part? It is (usually) supplied with replacement clutch cables, however a cable from ********* or performance products may not include the tube.

Sometimes called the "bourdon tube" this part wears out and you will have a hard time getting smooth operation of the clutch without it.

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA

heiltrading · 10-06-2009, 01:00 PM

yup got that with the cable, and cable operation feels smooth, so i dont know why my spring is not providing enough force to hold the pedal all the way back

john walker's workshop · 10-06-2009, 01:51 PM

you don't really need a full mm of clearance between the arms, just a bit of obvious clearance so you know the release arm is not pulling on the t/o bearing. that measurement is done first, with a relaxed clutch cable. the omega spring should now have pulled the long arm all the way back to it's stop. then pedal height/engagement position is adjusted by shortening/lengthening the cable sheath by way of the two nuts on it. just because the pedal feels easy does not mean there is a problem. new clutches feel like that. just the difference between the old binding cable and the new one can be dramatic.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

you don't really need a full mm of clearance between the arms, just a bit of obvious clearance so you know the release arm is not pulling on the t/o bearing. that measurement is done first, with a relaxed clutch cable. the omega spring should now have pulled the long arm all the way back to it's stop. then pedal height/engagement position is adjusted by shortening/lengthening the cable sheath by way of the two nuts on it. just because the pedal feels easy does not mean there is a problem. new clutches feel like that. just the difference between the old binding cable and the new one can be dramatic.

John W.,

While we are at the topic of clutch cable replacement/installation, what would be an ideal length threaded at the 'clevis' end of the cable? If I remember correctly, you suggested a certain amount that has to be threaded (at the clevis end) sometime ago. If not, how much would you 'thread in' for an SC clutch cable installation? Thanks.

Tony