Air Pump Bracket Removal? Stuck!

scotricker · 10-04-2009, 09:57 AM

This has sort-of got me stumped. I got the air pump off, and want to also remove it's bracket. I'll just put some spacers on those studs and put the nuts back on.

But the check-valve is in the way.

I pulled and tugged and used a pry bar, but don't want to break anything.

How does that check valve come out, so I can get the bracket off?

Or is there another secret way that I haven't figured out?

then I'll put the valve back in and cap it off.

Jim Sims · 10-04-2009, 10:10 AM

Have you disconnected the air injection lines from the heads under the car and do you have the plugs and gaskets required to seal the resulting holes? See the attached image of the air injection lines and the attached check valve. I seem to recall the check valve was integral to the air injection lines.

scotricker · 10-04-2009, 10:16 AM

that sucks. It looks like that part is attached to the whole line.

but that's a great picture!

Jim Sims · 10-04-2009, 10:18 AM

I stand corrected; there is a threaded joint between the check valve and the air injection line but it may be difficult to get to. I dropped the entire assembly as a single unit. See this image:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1974-75/1-5-3.JPG

scotricker · 10-04-2009, 10:38 AM

that looks right Jim, but I'd still have to drop the whole assembly to get that top part off. I think for today, I'll just leave the bracket on, and get on with more important issues. thanks for your help.

Jim Sims · 10-04-2009, 10:55 AM

I assume you're planning on doing so but just in case: put the nuts back on those studs as the studs (at least the top two do) help maintain the chain case cover oil seal.

scotricker · 10-04-2009, 11:04 AM

oh yes, all three nuts are back on. the bracket has won for now.

KobaltBlau · 02-14-2011, 12:41 PM

Bumping an old thread here, but for the benefit of future searchers:

I had the exact same situation on my 78 SC, I could find no way of getting the bracket out with the studs in and the check valve in. However, it occurred to me that I could perhaps take the studs out first by double nutting them. The bottom stud was even hard to find clearance for with the check valve there, but it was possible. What I did was this:

Double nutted the stud, got it broken free enough that I could turn it by hand. broke the double nuts loose. At this point I couldn't remove them because there wasn't enough clearance, I had backed out the stud too much. then I hand-tightened the stud back in as much as I could to get as much clearance as I could. I suppose you could even use pliers here if necessary though you are likely to damage the stud, you are probably not planning to reuse it right away if you're removing this stuff.

Once I had the stud tightened in as much as I could by hand, I then had clearance to get the nuts off, and following that had clearance to take the stud all the way out by hand. The upper two studs have plenty of clearance, though one of mine was really in there. I was putting way more torque on the nuts to double them than I wanted to, but in the end I got it out without any stud extractor.

I will now need to replace the upper two studs (don't think the lower one does anything other than holds this bracket on) with 6x42 studs as described in this thread (Thanks Jim Sims):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/101554-smog-pump-removal-what-length-chain-cover-studs.html

Again for searchers, Here's another related thread on leaving the spider in:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/591373-safe-leave-spider-heads-without-smog-air-pump.html