Help - Brake Lines

geoffbaltz · geoffbaltz's Garage

OK, I am in the middle of my brake project, and i have got the new rotors on the front and have the calipers off the car ready for a rebuild and cleaning.

I cant get the f>ing brake lines off the car!!!

Any tricks, ideas, or maybe someone can alert me to my stupidity.

Thanks in advance.

-g

cary · 11-14-2001, 05:06 PM

Which connection are you having trouble with ?

Or do you have your caliper hanging from the hose ? Which isn't good. Find something to hang it from. Taking the tension off the hose.

I use flare nut wrenches on mine to keep the fittings square.
Use one wrench to hold the opposing fitting in place. Then loosen with the other. On the caliper, just the flare nut wrench.

geoffbaltz · geoffbaltz's Garage

I have the calipers completely disconnected. I didn't have any trouble with that fitting. The one on the end of the brake line that connects to the hard line on the car is brutal. I just don't want to break anything.

Jim Sims · 11-15-2001, 01:34 PM

If the joint is corroded or was overtightened in the past you may end up damaging the adjacent section of "hard line" in the process of removing the rubber section. Some times this is unavoidable. Spray the joint with "Kroil" or some other penetrating oil (don't use WD-40) and let it soak a day or so. Use quality tube wrenches on the fittings. May sure you're turning the wrench the correct direction for loosening. One other trick is to first attempt to slightly tighten the fitting and then loosen it. If the fitting is badly seized, the fitting nut corners may round before the fitting breaks free. The next step is to then use a set of small visegrips on the rounded fittings. If that doesn't work then one may have to cut the joint apart. In any event, the hardline section will have to be replaced. Pelican can get you these hard line pieces.

Jim

Jdub · 11-15-2001, 02:19 PM

If you are not using flare wrenches on the nuts you haven't a prayer. Soak very completely, buy the correct brake flare wrench(es), and pray.

Jw

old_skul · 11-15-2001, 02:55 PM

If you're talking about where the caliper hardline connects to the flexible rubber (or stainless) line, make sure to remove the bracket that holds it in place first. Counterhold the hardline fitting with a flarenut wrench and use another flarenut wrench on the flexible side as well.

The same thing works further upline when you remove the rubber/stainless from the hardline going to the master cylinder.

Whatever you do, protect that hardline going to the m/c at all costs. You really, really don't want to replumb your car's brake lines.

cary · 11-15-2001, 03:03 PM

Jim is right on target. Like Jim said, get a GOOD penetrating oil. I use PB Blaster. Can be found at NAPA.
I you still can't get if off without "dorking" up the fitting. Replacing the hard line isn't real tough or expensive.

Good Luck

geoffbaltz · geoffbaltz's Garage

Well you know that I got the new rotors on the front from frozenrotors.com (slotted and cryogenic treated Zimmerman's). I also took the front calipers up to Reid Vann to have them rebuilt. Should be about $150 per caliper in parts and a little labor. This includes new pistons, seals, scrapers, speedbleeders, and bleeder caps. They are going to totally clean them up too.

About the flare nut wrenches - I went to Sears and got a metric set for about $25..worked great on the driver's side front line. The pass side front line is stuck like a ***** and i have accomplished stripping the nut. So, i am going to replace the hard line that connects to the firewall and runs down the wheelwell.

I went ahead and got the rear calipers off tonight and will take them up to Reid Vann Monday to have them cleaned overnight in thier parts cleaner.

The rears didn't smell near as bad as the fronts. Talk about cooked calipers ala driver's ed! I am sure the seals and the pistons are screwed and they will definitely benefit from the rebuild. The rear's pads looked brand new compared to the front pads that had about 1/8" of material left.

I'll go ahead and replace the rear lines on Sunday. When I get back in town from Thanksgiving, the calipers should be finished and I'll pick them up. All I will have to do then is take a wire wheel to them and repaint them, attach to the car, put the new pads on the front (Performance Friction), and bleed the system with the new ATE Super Blue racing fluid.

We'll see how it is then.

I did ask for a new proportioning valve for xmas(My Wife must think I am a dork). This should help move some of the breaking pressure to the rear.

I'll keep you posted and thanks!

-G