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Engine Drop Tips?
I've read the 101 book and subsequent threads for engine drops. I'm looking at starting a drop this weekend. I've got a 1980SC with an Elephant Racing suspension and it sits fairly low and I'm a little worried about clearance once the engine is down.
I'm going after chronic oil leaks on the passenger side. Concerns: I'm going for leaks, do I need a complete drop or a partial. Do I need to or should I drop the engine/trans or just the engine. Do I drop it onto 4x4s as shown in the book or can I rig a dolly with wheel and drop it onto a dolly. Will I need to remove the bumper for clearance. At what point do I need another person involved. Where am I most likely to get into trouble. Any special tool required? |
Ok Gregg,
I, with the help of a few socal Pelicans, dropped my engine/tranny a couple of weeks ago. I think the biggest thing I'd say to do is not skimp out on getting a tranny jack or elevating table. I just bought this from amazon: Amazon.com: Panther H6240 Hydraulic Mobile Table Cart - 600 lbs.: Home Improvement It's the best price I could fond for a table like it. I'll be posting some pictures of my drop tonight so watch for them! Good luck, Michael |
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Thanks for the response.
2 questions: What does the ATV jack look like or do you have a manuf and model # of the one that you have. "Beer" is not specific, what kind of beer? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif |
Heineken, of course!!SmileWavy
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Bud Lite Lime
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Shane |
PS.... a Pelicanism
It also helps to have a cinder block or similar wall with which to hurl said glass fabricated beer containment device against whilst spewing obscenities.
This action combined with the soothing ability of the alcohol will greatly enhance the whole "by yourself" experience, oh and the lime flavor will balance everything out and bring you back to your happy place. Enjoy. |
engine and trans together
give youself plenty of time, plan on a whole day then if you finish in 4 hours it's a bonus just before you relase the engine mounts measure the angle of the body and the angle of the motor then when you reinstall you can set everything at the correct attitude before you start raising into position as the motor comes down lower it 1/2" and check it still floats i.e. it is not hanging up anywhere, then lower another 1/2" and so on. keep an eye on the shift rod. raise up the back of the car as high as you can safely, 36" or more!! oh yeah - beer |
I dropped mine for the first time a few months ago. I picked up a heavy duty furniture dolly from my local hardware store, and used a low profile floor jack positioned under it to lower the engine. Then when I lowed it down and out the engine stayed on the dolly and I slid the jack out from under that. Presto! That way I had an easy way to move the engine around the garage.
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gregg911,
Search more here on PP because the topic has been covered lots with pictures etc. Do not support the engine/transmission on the sump plate! A few inches forward is the sweet-spot for balance! I suggest you pin-point the oil leaks with a running engine before dropping it. Take your time and re-check several times that everything is disconnected before lowering! |
Removing the bumper gives you a lot more clearence, I cut the wires about 4" after they came out of the car and just put connectors on the wires for the next time I need to remove it. You gain about 6" or more with the bumper off so you don't have to jack the car as high or at such a crazy angle, getting the front up 6-8" will help with the angle issue as well, I've seen some pic's. Took it off to add a exhaust from RarlyL8 have yet to do an engine drop. good luck
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Triple check that everything is disconnected. Drop a little bit and check again. Make sure your drive shafts aren't hanging up on anything. It helps to have a second set of eyes.
Take pictures and bag & label parts that are disassembled so you won't have to rely on memory. Think hard about doing other things "while you're in there". Do you really want to drop the motor again in a year? How old is your clutch? If nothing else, this is a good time to do a trans fluid change and adjust the valves (a whole lot easier when the motor is out). Be careful to get your torque settings correct when doing reassembly. The wrong number can cost you time and money. Ask me how I know :0( |
that 80's car has another electrical wire cluster in the back...do not forget to disconnect this, as you lower the motor. it snaps easy.
you can lift a furniture dolly up to the motor and lower it onto the wheels. |
[QUOTE=Por_sha911;5154203]Triple check that everything is disconnected. Drop a little bit and check again. QUOTE]
I think this is the most important point. Use large jack stands, such as 6-ton would be pt. #2, and it is easier if you have two floor jacks, so you may want to borrow one. You work them in tandem to raise or lower the front end without putting torsion on the chassis. Search for engine drop. I contributed to a thread that had Fred Cook's engine drop method. I copied his ATV rig, and posted pics and dimensions of it on another forum. It's an easy and simple job really, just make sure everything is disconnected before you lower the engine. |
A second floor jack is handy so that you can raise the car from the factory jack points if (when) you need a little extra clearance to get the motor out.
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The Bentley manual has more detailed instructions on doing the drop then Wayne's book. I'd highly recommend getting it.
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Let me know if you want a hand tomorrow. I'm not an expert, but I've assisted in an engine drop. I'm available only until noon.
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I can come down too if you'd like a hand.
Michael |
One of many such threads
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/401955-supporting-engine-removal.html |
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