Pulled a Stud
 

Looks like the racket I heard Monday was the result of a pulled stud on cylinder #6. Fearing that the clatter I heard was a spun rod bearing, I had the car hauled to TRE in Van Nuys, here in So Cal on Tuesday. Looks like they'll finally get around to starting on it Monday. Bitterly disappointed by the time lag. But not as disappointed as I am with a broken motor and an expensive repair bill. Guess we might as well do rings and valves while we're in there. Should at least solve a couple of nagging little oil leaks. Any low-cost (heh, funny idea, that) upgrades I ought to consider while we're in there?

And one more thing: Should it come to that, should repair costs get completely out hand, what's the best later engine to transplant into this '82 SC? I'd be grateful for any thoughts on this.

964 Cams?

Keep in mind that I have to be able to pass California emissions. I suspect a cam change would render that impossible. Worth looking at, though. Thanks for the suggestion.

I am with you on the "disappointed about the expensive repair" but that's the other side of Porsche ownership.

This is a good read for those who are thinking about buying an older Porsche. P-Cars are very dependable but when something does break, the repairs are hardly ever, inexpensive. Like someone on the board said "they are all 20k cars"

Good luck on the repair, hope all goes well.

I assume that you don't have a pulled stud - with an 82 SC, I would think you have a broken exhaust stud. If it were mine, from what I've read on here, I wouldn't replace the rings - I'd just do all the exhaust studs and a valve job. Button it up and enjoy.

If you have pass emissions in Calif, there's not much you can do to it - like exhaust work.

Did leak oil? I remebered pull head stud would mean oil leaks?

No oil leaks, at least none that I noticed. The guy at the shop told me that the stud was pulled, definately not broken. Re P-cars being $20,000 vehicles, I'm going to be well beyond this by the time this is over. Not good.

Oh man I am going to fix my RATTLE AND CLUTTER this weekend i could have a timing chain issue and head studs now that you meantioned it?

yea they are 20k cars, but maybe you just fix the stud? instead ofdoing the rest?

My motor has done more miles than yours. I dont think i'll revamp the engine yet.

But i am buying a 3.2 for spares.

Mine passed with a little tweak of the mixture.....

How can you be "bitterly disappointed" by a shop that takes less than a week to start on a semi-involved project?

I had the 964 cams in my 81 and they passed CA smog fine.

George

One more comment - the studs don't pull on the aluminum case 3.0. They usually break / snap.

Before you are too disappointed in the shop, remember that good people will always be busy. You can also go to the guy around the corner who has nobodies car in there. :D

George

This is why working on your old Porsche is mandatory for ownership. This is when you start learning the process. If there is only one stud to repair, it can be done with a repairt kit (that was very polular with the mag case studs). I would say, $1,000 when all is said and done and if you don't do the while in there stuff?

Curious.... is it typical for an SC stud break to be any one of the bottom 12 Dilivar, as a rule....when a broken SC stud is found? Or can it be just as common for it to be any one of the top-row steel ?

Most stud failures, from what I understand and have experienced, are the lower dilivar studs. The material used in them is not well suited for the intended use. (This is a subject of great debate.)

I have found that one of the best parts of owning a 911 is working on it myself. It is great satisfaction to pull the motor (easy) and do a top end or complete rebuild. These motors are not hard to work on. There are a few special tools required, but nothing that will break the bank. These are air cooled motors with individual cylinders and heads and a common cam shaft; just like motorcycles of old. If you rebuild it to stock there is no guessing at tuning or whether or not a combination will work, making the repairs even easier. A broken stud will take you a couple of weekends in the garage. If it were mine I'd re-ring it, have the exhaust guides replaced and get a valve grind. Other than new studs, that would be it, unless something shows up during the tear-down.

This web site is your single most valuable tool.

Lindyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284817130.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284817333.jpg

I've never seen a steel stud on an SC break......just those crappy Divilars.

When mine went on my 914/6 conversion, it sounded like playing cards in a bicycle spokes kinda noise.

It's no big deal, I probably expressed this a bit too strongly - but my disappointment about the lag in time it will take to get my car back stems from a miscommunication. This car is my driver, so I need for it to be repaired as quickly as possible. Apparently a voice-mail message they left for me didn't make the trip, hence two days of work time lost. I guess that happens sometimes. Ah, well, it's all solved, and soon repairs will be under way.

And yes, the guys at the shop definately told me that a stud in cylinder #6 had pulled, not broken. At least when they did a check on the oil and filter, that all came out clean as a whistle. Looks like no bottom-end work is required.

A 30yr old car as a primary daily driver with no esasy backup? You are a brave man. Go buy a cheap Toyota, pull the car from the shop and do the work yourself, you might come out money ahead.....that said, TRE does seem to have an outstanding reputation.

Good luck

Jack

Either very brave or incredibly stupid, I'm not sure which it is. But the car is in great shape - good interior, new brakes and tires, trans rebuilt 10k miles ago - hey, what could go wrong? Besides, I'm kind of semiretired, so don't plan to put all that much pressure on the car, so once I get this engine problem sorted out I should be good to go (here he crosses his fingers and toes).

Not mandatory, but for most folks, having a car that needs regular maintenance usually means doing it yourself or getting a more modern (boring) and convenient car. For me, I can only afford what the rich guys kick to the curb. I'd rather drive something interesting and have to fix it myself. If folks didn't hate working on cars themselves, I'd have to buy a newer car like everyone else.

Good for you 5String43 - mine is a daily driver also.

I've heard of this before with an aluminum case 3.0, but I think it is rare. Sorry to hear that.