|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Freeport, IL USA
Posts: 74
|
I've reviewed past threads on various welding topics, and in going through them, I am asking what advice any of you might offer as to what type of welder a novice should consider. Do either MIG or TIG types offer advantages for a beginner that the other does not have ?
Any input will be appreciated ! |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
|
The best advice I could give you is take a class on welding at your local community college. You'll learn the right way to weld, and the different types of welding, with different machines. Then you can make a educated decision on which welder will fill your needs. Plus you can make some cool projects in that class.
------------------ Matt Chamblin 78 911 SC |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Bremen, Germany
Posts: 162
|
I fully agree.
And then: practise, practise,... Every time I start welding after a couple of months, I burn the panels first. Gets better after some trys on crap metal. You shouldn't consider carrera flares as your first project I guess... Jens |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
|
I definatley would not start with carrera flares!
------------------ Matt Chamblin 78 911 SC |
||
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 539
|
Definately start with Mig. Tig welding is better, cleaner and sexier but extreemly hard to learn compared to Mig. Get the best Mig machine you can afford. You can spend $150 to $2,000 so there is a wide range. However, don't be fooled, you do get what you pay for. The middle of the road would be your best bet.
------------------ Mark www.mark.hargett.com mark@hargett.com |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 253
|
Mig. Mig, mig, mig. Don't waste your money on those little "hobby quality" DC stick welders that are little more than glorifed battery chargers-sure, they're cheap, but it's REALLY HARD to control the amperage and arc well enough to cleanly weld sheetmetal. I made that mistake on my '66 912 restoration and spent WAYY too much time welding, grinding, welding again, grinding again, etc. Spend the $250-$500 for a middle of the road MIG setup , take a welding class at a community college, and make life easier for yourself.
Eastwood and Harbor Freight Tools are great places to get welders and supplies... ------------------ Clay McGuill '66 912, '97 Jeep Cherokee www.geocities.com/the912guy [This message has been edited by ClayMcguill (edited 07-04-2001).] |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,200
|
Make sure its a gas MIG. Although technically all MIG welders are gas (Metal Inert Gas), a lot of places (Home Depot, Sears, Harbor Freight) sell "gasless" MIG welders for as low as $125.
Those things make really ugly, messy, slag filled welds. They are imprecise and need a lot of heat, so they are not suitable for use on most automotive sheet metal (auto sheet metal is too thin). Don't waste your time with that. Do it right, the first time. A gas MIG welder setup, with bottle and regulator, will cost a minimum of around $450. But, its a good investment. I agree with the others, TIG welding is actually the best for most automotive applications, it makes the cleanest welds. But, its really overkill, and its difficult to do. TIG welding is like what you see on nice bike frames and Indy Cars, those nice, neat layered welds. ANYONE can learn to MIG weld. The best thing to do is go to any welding shop, or Sears or a big book store, and get a book on welding. In a couple hours you will know all you need to know. Then its just a matter of practicing. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: SF CA USA
Posts: 70
|
Orph, If you live near San Francisco I'll be happy to let you borrow my Miller mig welder.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Stuttgart FRG
Posts: 2,307
|
Hello
Please browse the archives as i had some basic things about that postet and also others had good inputs. Grüsse |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
|
If you plan to weld anything that's going to be structural (i.e. strong), I'd suggest taking a welding class. Welding is just not melting metal and sticking it together; well basically it is, but there's more to it.
Sherwood Lee http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
||
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
|
Avoid cheap-skate ac "buzz-boxes", and any machine where the transformer is wound with aluminum wire. A copper coil in your welder will give you higher duty cycles and longer life. I have a Miller-Matic 185 I'm very satisfied with.
------------------ '81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber") Canada West Region PCA The Blue Bomber's Website |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Another good idea to save a bit of money would be to check around some of the large corporate chain stores like Sears, Lowes, or even Tractor Supply, for close-out deals! I recently got a $499 Century 130 Wire-Feed Welder (MIG) for $356.76 because they are changing over to the Hobart line of welders! The unit I got was a floor sample, but it had all of the paperwork and supplies in the box, including a how-to video!
------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Boynton Beach, FL USA
Posts: 39
|
Tig is for the experts, Mig is for the masses. Gas is a must.
If you are doing sheet metal or unibody repair, a 120V 130-140 amp is good. If you are building trailers or installing roll cages, you need over 150 amps, 220 V. In Welders, duty cycle determines quality and cost. Duty cycle is the ratio of welding time vs rest that the welder needs. 10% would mean that for 1 minute of welding, you need 9 minutes of idle time. Look at the pinch rollers on the wire feed. Plastic may "bird nest" (when you look in the welder after it does not feed, you will know where that term comes from) or wear out sooner than metal rollers. Best to buy a welder that you can easily get parts for, tips, wire.... See you local gas shop for suggestions. I'm also partial to Miller. Daytona Mig has a good 130 amp "portable". Lastly, make sure you have a 25 amp service plug in your garage if you go 120V. Happy metal melting. Doug 84 911 ROW |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Guys,
Sears used to carry the Century 130 welder 3-5 years ago in their tool catalog and stores, and Century still makes their current 'Craftsman' MIG machines ... so the parts availability from Sears is assured for a long time! That was a major deciding factor to get the Century model. ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
||
|
|
|
|
i want one of those...
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: formerly a grass shack in Hawaii, now Peoria, AZ
Posts: 3,030
|
Warren,
Do you know if Sears still sells MIG welders? Last time I went I didn't see any. How about brands of MIG welders? Is there any brands any of you recommend, and is there any I should stay away from? Thanks! ------------------ Jeff 1974 911 Targa (not running, but mobile) 1976 911S Coupe (running, but not mobile) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bristol, VT USA
Posts: 334
|
I've got a Lincoln that I really like.
I bought a 110 setup since my garage isn't wired for 220 yet. In retrospect I wish I had bitten the bullet and gotten a 220 setup. I also have a oxy-acetalene torch/welding set that was inexpensive and works nicely - not the best for body panel repairs though since the heat is not as focused as a MIG. Between the two you have a pretty versatile setup for brazing and welding. Like others, I would strongly recommend that you take a welding course at the local school. I took an adult class at the local vocational school and am glad I did before rushing out to buy the equipment. Cheers, Charlie |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Trenton, NJ USA
Posts: 27
|
Think about the size of the gas bottle if you buy a MIG set-up. It sucks running out in the middle of a job...
Also get an extra spool of wire. I've used my father's MIG on many occasions - not only for replacing rusted sheet metal or fabricating metal projects, but also for welding nuts on to rounded bolt heads. I think it cost around $400 about 10 years ago and works flawlessly with a little practice and fiddling with the wire speed and current settings. Also a decent mask is worth-while. Those electronic auto-dimming ones are nice, but a compfortable, durable flip-up style one is just fine. Kurt |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Freeport, IL USA
Posts: 74
|
Thanks everyone for your valuable and informative input ! It's greatly appreciated.
I've started my so called research, and have found that the local farm supply store's prices are 10-20% less than the couple of sources mentioned in the replys here. They carry three brand names, across all price points. For "Mark 69 911", I appreciate the offer to use your "Mig", but being in the Midwest, I think I'll pass ! Again, thanks all ! |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Spotsylvania, VA
Posts: 328
|
I just bought a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 from Lowe's last week for $309. This is a MIG welder with a self feeding motor. I also purchased a gas conversion kit(CO2/Argon) for $94 from Lowe's. I haven't purchased the gas tank yet, but I plan to do so within the next week. The CO2/Argon shielding gas is absolutely necessary for welding of thin metal. If you don't have it, you may burn a hole right through your new sheet metal! My father and I practiced making some spot welds on my old rusty rockers and found this out.
Bill ------------------ William Armentrout 1973 911T 2.7 carerra rs specs www.geocities.com/william_armentrout |
||
|
|
|