car does not start - feels like battery is totally drained

[Joe Bob]

60-80 bucks you can get a decent Fluke on EvilBay.

[DRACO A5OG]

When I replaced my Mother's starter, the new one I purchased was defective.

AAA came out and tested my starting system i.e. battery, alternator and starter. Found out new starter was bad.

Verified at Auto2one and replacd for a working one that they tested before I left the Store.

[Joe Bob]

Starter rebuilds are such a racket. Rebuilds with lifetime warranty, they don't cover R&R.

[Wil Ferch]

If you can tolerate no current (amp) readings....even the small, foldable pocket digital style at Radio Shack is good for $28.....I've checked these against Flukes and for all other read-outs....they both read the same. Electronics guts....doncha know. They either tend to read correctly or not at all.

[DRACO A5OG]

I am planning on re-building my starter with an electrical pro ( most likely he will do and I will be the camera man) and posting a video soon.

Watching Vids on youtube and reading the Haynes manual seems easy enough, mostly cleaning, bearings and lube. Wonder where you can get new brushes and coils. McMaster Carr???

[TibetanT]

Originally Posted by darshie76

Thanks Ed, going now then...got a pretty thick cable and few more smaller ones to do the patch work.

Now how do i turn off the car IF it starts?

Before the long wire is connected to the starter for this test, remove the coil wire from the distributor. In other words, unplug the coil wire...this is the spark plug wire in the middle of the top of the distributor that runs to the coil.
If this is removed, the engine will not run.

[Wil Ferch]

Radio Shack.....

RadioShack® 15-Range Digital Multimeter - RadioShack.com

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch

If you can tolerate no current (amp) readings....even the small, foldable pocket digital style at Radio Shack is good for $28.....

No DMM is any good for checking starter current draw, because they only tend to read up to 10A, and that's usually an unfused bus inside the meter - at least on cheaper examples. A starter will draw 10 times that and melt the bus. You need a current shunt or clamp meter to check high draw like starter current - really not worth it.

The lower current ranges are useful for things like finding what's draining your battery when you're not driving the car, though.

The only advantage of a good meter is that it is more likely to work when you want to use it - I replaced 3 $40 multimeters 2,3,4 years apart until buying a used Fluke 77 4 years ago. Which still works perfectly. The accuracy of even a cheap, uncalibrated meter isn't an issue for auto work - they're fine.

[twin plugged targa]

darshie
I had similar issues with my 930
had replacement starter motor
installed new battery
Cleaned all battery connections and ground strap to body connection
My French mechanic reckons he has solved the problem and claims the heavy gauge cable from the positive terminal to the starter motor was not tightened on the positive terminal. He also cleaned up all of the connections at the left rear of the engine bay where 'starter relay' is? -
I have only been driving it since this morning, so far so good - still carrying the spare battery and jumper cables just in case!

My symptoms also went away with a charged battery or if the car sat overnight.
With a full charged or new battery it seemed ok for a while
I may still have to install a 'hot start relay kit'

Not 100% convinced my problem has gone away and so will be watching your progress - good luck!
Ben