Buying a '72 911T

[wastintime]

Hey guys,

Well, I can finally make a post about a 911 and not a 912 here. I wasn't planning on upgrading to a 911 quite so soon, but I ran across one that really caught my eye. It's a 1972 911T. I'm going to take my mechanic along with me to look at it before buying, but I was wondering if any of you had any advice. Things I should look or watch out for that are general, or specific to that model and year. I've had a '67 912 for a few years so I know most of the things to look for on the body. There is a bit of bad rust damage just above the engine lid, but the floors looked solid, and there didn't appear to be anything more than some surface rust on the rest of the car. As long as the engine is strong I just might buy it. I'd appreciate any advice you guys can give when i go to look at it again.

Thanks,
Andrew

[Saffs]

A compression test and leak down figures will reveal a lot about the health of the engine - you must get this done. Look for good heat exchangers and exhaust. Does the heat work inside the cabin, for instance, no fumes too. Is the engine leaking oil much? Does it start good from cold and idle smoothly, plus go the the rev range cleanly when warm?
I'm guessing it's a US spec 911T, in which case it shoulf have mechanical fuel injection (MFI) - parts and service can be expensive on MFI, thus starting, running well, etc. is very important.
Get your mechanic to check out the tranny too.
Good luck and love to see some pics of it....

[Early_S_Man]

Andrew,

Hopefully ... the car is from a private seller that has owned the car for some time! If it is from a broker or used car lot ... that does not bode well! If there aren't any records or someone who is familiar with the car, be wary! The engine and transaxle could be ready for expensive overhauls!

If the engine is not the original MFI, be suspicious, and ask why??? If the clutch pedal doesn't have the proper 15 mm to 20 mm of freeplay, and shift easily and quietly into reverse AND 1st gear, ask how long it has been driven that way??? Ask how recently the gear oil was changed, and what brand was used?

Examine the heat exchangers, and oil lines to/from oil tank for evidence of corrosion ... some of the '72 oil system components are NLA, and unique for that year only!

The brakes should operate smoothly at ALL speeds, and without pulling to either side ... from 30 mph, or 120 mph, with no steering correction needed! Brake and clutch pedal operation should be smooth, without any binding! Look at the fluid levels in the brake fluid reservoir, and color of the fluid. Ask how recently the brake fluid was flushed/bled?

TBC ...

[Bobboloo]

I know your familiar with the body but I've been familiar with these cars for ten years and I still make mistakes at times assessing rust. Especially if its hidden.
It's funny that people talk alot about the pans because it's been my experience that, although you do come across cars with rusted out pans (which I would run from), the problem points I see the most are not the floors but the suspension pan, the A and C pillars. As matter of fact my most recent purchase, a 72'T Targa, looked good in the suspension pan from visual inspection but actually was rusting from the inside out do to battery acid. You could not see this from underneath or from inside the trunk. It was only revealed by pushing on the pan from underneath which revealed soft metal.
Another place you can't see but you should check with your finger is to reach under the dash pad on the far right and far left to feel for rust. When the windshield seal goes the water gets in and it sits under the seal and is pushed by the wind under the dash pad.

On the mechanical side. If the car "just needs a clutch" be aware that it may not be just a clutch but it may also be the input shaft seal. This is no big deal on later 915's but on most of the 72's it's a very expensive repair to replace that $2 seal because it requires partial dissassembly of the tranny.

Bobby
72'T Coupe
72'T Roadster Project

[Zendalar]

I have a -72, so called rust free......or so i thought

Go under the car. Get a sharp "dagger" or a screwdriver and start hacking the car bottom from these places:

Just under the seats where you attach the seat bolts, there is this sidebeam, inside it there are stiffening plates and such.
Started to weld a 3*3cm hole on the beam and finally when i was done, i had replaced 10*50cm of the outer sheet, plus the stiffening plates.....

Behind Co-driver kick panel carpets: I had a missing part, well rusted off, 5cm tall 25cm wide part, started to replace it and found out that the rust was way further than that and ...took me all day fix.

[jluetjen]

An interesting indicator of a engine's health (if you can get it) is to check the milage that the car has been getting. A healthy 911 motor of this era (with MFI) should be getting close to 20 MPG. If it is making less then that, something is amiss.

Looking at some of the pictures on this BBS, I'd recommend getting down and looking /poking with a screw driver on the door jams from inside the rear fenders. I'd also poke and prod any and every seam under the car that you can reach.

Ask the seller when was the last time that they had the car aligned. Did the keep a copy of the results? If the car can't be aligned straight, then there are suspension or frame issues which need to be factored into the price.

[Charley Dog]

I have yet to see a car that only has "surface rust." For every bit of rust you can spot, there should be a fair bit that you can't. As well, rusty cars are unlikely to have received top shelf mechanical attention, and so are likely to have many deferred maintenance suprises just waiting to bite you. T's are common enough that I would probably consider finding a better one as a starting point. Of course, for the right price...

[steveW]

Maybe you are overlooking one important thing. The car is 30 years old and any car of that vintage will have signs of ageing - even 30 yr old women do!

I would just decide whether it is worth buying because pre-74 cars are becoming scarce.

Follow your heart, but understand what you really want.

[Charley Dog]

I hear what you're saying, Steve, but...

Rust and patina are not the same thing.

It's all relative, I supose, but acceptable pre-74 cars aren't so scarce in the U.S. right now. There are plenty in California, and I suspect that there will be several better alternatives to this one available at Hershey in a couple of weeks.

I agree on following your heart. Just make sure you bring your calculator with you.

[pwd72s]

Good advice from all. I've been quite happy with my '72...for 28 years now. If you find the right one, you'll be happy too. -Abby