Sometimes the extention will get loose in the sockethttp://www.infoocean.info/avatar1.jpg

Sears has those locking extensions. Might save you some time going to a local Sears store.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out in the morning!

+1 :-(

It sounds like the socket is still engaged with the plug and it did turn a little you said.

Why not simply try more force.

I am not suggesting a breaker bar but maybe you are being too.... ahhh.... judicious.

You already flooded it with PB, now pull on it!

this has me perplexed. How badly can it be stuck? Obviously, you dont want to pull so hard that you break the ceramic tip, and let debris fall into the head. But it should be free by now.

Haha Success! A big thanks to everyone for help on this especially aston@ultrasw.c! I took your advice and gave cranking it out one more try. It took an awful amount of force but the PB blast did its job and the plug came out!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334089410.jpg


The socket is still fused to the plug but at lease it's out of the car now! I have a feeling the plug had been cross threaded based on the difficulty getting it out and the evidence of residue on the plug's threads.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334089540.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334089557.jpg

I have bought a Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 640811 14mm Back-Tap Thread Repair Tool: Automotive to hopefully restore the threads and I'll be getting the Hazet spark plug tool for when it's time to install the new plugs.

Thanks again for all the help!
-Michael

Might someone comment on the thread integrity of the pics? They look ok to me? Pic #1 DOES show (at least, seems to show) some thread issues towards the spark plug tip....(this doesn't really show on the subsequent pics....

Thanks for the info!

Best!

Doyle

looks ok
 

I agree looks OK to me as well. try to put the plug in hand tight to do this put a piece of hose on the plug and start to thread it in. That way you can't harm the threads.

Can you show a pic of the different plugs side by side?
That plug looks like it came out of the Titanic :D

Well you said "spark plug socket stuck" not that it's cross threaded.

Dont use a tap unless you want to get metal shards into your engine. The aluminum is soft, and will damage easily.

I don't see anything about the threads on the pictured plug that would worry me (maybe a little debris/distortion on the second row from the top?). Cross threading usually causes much more carnage than that. I definitely would not go running any thread chasers down there before attempting to install a plug.

Get a new spark plug and add a light coat of anti-seize compound. Some say you have to use the copper based but I've used " regular " anti-seize for 30+ years with no problems. Start the new plug by hand with the factory or Hazet tool. Go gently and you should be able to get the plug in with minimal issues. Agree with others do not chase the threads with the heads on the car, too risky to get metal shavings into the cylinder. You should anti-seize all the plugs. Knock on wood I've never had a stuck plug when using anti-seize.

use copper antisieze so next time it won't be that hard. I used the silver (aluminum?) before switching to copper, big different.

the initial problem was that the socket was (and still is) stuck on the plug. The plug itself was also stuck in the plug well and I wasn't able to move it counter clockwise (loosey) anymore. I think the PB blast loosened the plug enough for me to remove it.

I may have over-reacted but there seemed to be a lot of debris in the threads of the plug when it finally came out. I will try putting an "anti-seized" plug in using the hose method before doing anything with the thread chaser.

What size hose do I use?

The hose needs to fit as tightly on the plug post/stem as possible (maybe go halfway down to the socket head or so - ew, that sounds "wrong") . . . really you're just giving yourself something to turn with finger power only and the hose is easier to grip than extensions are.

Sometimes a plug reaches into the chamber a 1/2 thread too far.
If so...the carbon buildup on that last thread can make it very difficult to remove later.
Make sure the head was not resurfaced in the outside plug area (the seating area for the plug washer/seal).
Bob

Been there, done that... got the bloody knuckles. Not to mention that 1/2 thread can get hot and cause pre-ignition. Indexing plugs is a help there...