Spark Plug Socket Stuck!
 

Hey all,
So I was removing my spark plugs today and all was going well. . . too well! I got everything out except for plug #6. When I got to it, it didn't want to budge. I gave it a little tug but not too much force but it hardly turned. Okay, I thought, I'll just spray some PB Blast in the tube and wait, but then I realized my Spark plug socket wasn't coming out either! I tried many different extensions and even a needle nose plier but nothing can get it out! Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Michael

Maybe the plug socket is a little worn.
If so...try tightening a little to get the socket on the other side of the flats.
A few wiggles back and forth should loosen the socket on the plug...then maybe a magnet retrieval tool to grab the socket?
Bob

what bob said, and instead of a ratchet type socket wrench used a fixed one

Try tapping it toward tight and then drawing it out with an extension or needle nose. Don't worry your engine is not doomed and it will come out eventually. Next time get a long spark plug remover (Honda mowers and power equipment come with the perfect wrench).

Leave it in there while the penetrating oil works and then use it to remove the plug. When the plug comes out the socket will too.

-Andy

Yeah, that's kind of my hope. We'll see tomorrow! :)

Did you try bubble gum at the end of a stick? ;)

Ehh! it'll come out. like they said....

Carl

take the valve cover off

It doesn't sound like you are using the factory spark plug tool. Once you get out this plug I highly recommend you purchase the factory tool. Not that expensive ( used ) and you won't have this problem again ( stuck socket ).

Sometimes the extention will get loose in the socket...so what I do is put one piece of black tape (plastic electricians tape) on the end of the extention to tighten up the connection from the extention to the plug socket.
This will help keep the socket on when pulling on the unit.
Bob

After having to fish out othet types, I started using the factory one and it works the best of all. Almost like Porsche knew what they were doing! :-)

Does our host sell the spark plug tool? (I don't see it on the 'tools' page of the parts catalog)....

the one from Hazet works wonderful. get it from Zelenda. http://www.zelenda.com/

Well to update on my situation, I have tried all day to free the socket with no luck. The only things I have to show for today's effort are a few bruised knuckles. I think what I'll do tomorrow id run to a tool store and buy a locking socket extension, something like this: Amazon.com: Neiko Pro-Grade Locking Extension Bar Set - No More Dropped Sockets!: Automotive . Perhaps that will do the trick!

After I get the socket out I will buy the Hazet tool and try again to remove the plug.

Thanks for all the feedback,
-Michael

I dropped the spark plug in mine once and worked on it for an hour before pulling the valve cover which is what I should have done from the very start. Pulling the valve cover gives you full access and you can see what you are doing thus causing no damage.

Removing the valve cover was the first thing I did. The problem is since it's cylinder 6, it's all the way at the front so you really can't see down there without a inspection mirror and a flashlight. My problem isn't that the the socket is dropped in the tube, it's full on stuck!

Yeah - you don't need this, but I like the tool from the tool kit so much, I bought a spare one off the board, and it sits in my tool box.

Good Luck. If it got stuck while trying to remove the plug - try to go the other way again. Wiggling it helps.

And shoot more PB down there.

What ruferst..... said above. I quit using my "fancy" socket set sockets for spark plugs and use the one in my OEM tool pouch. Might as well use it, they gave it to you ! Works great and will never have your problem. The flexi-feature and knurled nut thats easy to turn with your fingers is perfect to get them started without cross-threading.

Ahh that magical tool kit I've heard so much about! If only my car came with one! That was my first rookie buying mistake!

Watch the board and e-bay. They come up for sale all the time.

Buy two - one for the tool bag, one for the tool box!

Sometimes the extention will get loose in the sockethttp://www.infoocean.info/avatar1.jpg

Sears has those locking extensions. Might save you some time going to a local Sears store.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out in the morning!

+1 :-(

It sounds like the socket is still engaged with the plug and it did turn a little you said.

Why not simply try more force.

I am not suggesting a breaker bar but maybe you are being too.... ahhh.... judicious.

You already flooded it with PB, now pull on it!

this has me perplexed. How badly can it be stuck? Obviously, you dont want to pull so hard that you break the ceramic tip, and let debris fall into the head. But it should be free by now.

Haha Success! A big thanks to everyone for help on this especially aston@ultrasw.c! I took your advice and gave cranking it out one more try. It took an awful amount of force but the PB blast did its job and the plug came out!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334089410.jpg


The socket is still fused to the plug but at lease it's out of the car now! I have a feeling the plug had been cross threaded based on the difficulty getting it out and the evidence of residue on the plug's threads.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334089540.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334089557.jpg

I have bought a Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 640811 14mm Back-Tap Thread Repair Tool: Automotive to hopefully restore the threads and I'll be getting the Hazet spark plug tool for when it's time to install the new plugs.

Thanks again for all the help!
-Michael

Might someone comment on the thread integrity of the pics? They look ok to me? Pic #1 DOES show (at least, seems to show) some thread issues towards the spark plug tip....(this doesn't really show on the subsequent pics....

Thanks for the info!

Best!

Doyle

looks ok
 

I agree looks OK to me as well. try to put the plug in hand tight to do this put a piece of hose on the plug and start to thread it in. That way you can't harm the threads.

Can you show a pic of the different plugs side by side?
That plug looks like it came out of the Titanic :D

Well you said "spark plug socket stuck" not that it's cross threaded.

Dont use a tap unless you want to get metal shards into your engine. The aluminum is soft, and will damage easily.

I don't see anything about the threads on the pictured plug that would worry me (maybe a little debris/distortion on the second row from the top?). Cross threading usually causes much more carnage than that. I definitely would not go running any thread chasers down there before attempting to install a plug.

Get a new spark plug and add a light coat of anti-seize compound. Some say you have to use the copper based but I've used " regular " anti-seize for 30+ years with no problems. Start the new plug by hand with the factory or Hazet tool. Go gently and you should be able to get the plug in with minimal issues. Agree with others do not chase the threads with the heads on the car, too risky to get metal shavings into the cylinder. You should anti-seize all the plugs. Knock on wood I've never had a stuck plug when using anti-seize.

use copper antisieze so next time it won't be that hard. I used the silver (aluminum?) before switching to copper, big different.

the initial problem was that the socket was (and still is) stuck on the plug. The plug itself was also stuck in the plug well and I wasn't able to move it counter clockwise (loosey) anymore. I think the PB blast loosened the plug enough for me to remove it.

I may have over-reacted but there seemed to be a lot of debris in the threads of the plug when it finally came out. I will try putting an "anti-seized" plug in using the hose method before doing anything with the thread chaser.

What size hose do I use?

The hose needs to fit as tightly on the plug post/stem as possible (maybe go halfway down to the socket head or so - ew, that sounds "wrong") . . . really you're just giving yourself something to turn with finger power only and the hose is easier to grip than extensions are.

Sometimes a plug reaches into the chamber a 1/2 thread too far.
If so...the carbon buildup on that last thread can make it very difficult to remove later.
Make sure the head was not resurfaced in the outside plug area (the seating area for the plug washer/seal).
Bob

Been there, done that... got the bloody knuckles. Not to mention that 1/2 thread can get hot and cause pre-ignition. Indexing plugs is a help there...