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KNS KNS is online now
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Won't shift into reverse..?

Firstly, I did a search but couldn't find a problem similar to mine. My 915 tranny has always shifted pretty nice, not perfect but no real complaints. Just recently I've had trouble getting into reverse about 50% of the time. With the engine off reverse in no problem. If put a bit more effort pushing to the right on the lever and then aft that would seem to help. Cable (original with 106,000 mi) was adjusted about a year or so ago which improved things back then. gear shift bushings I assume original.

I just installed Ed' shift coupler with his new bushings (the old one was pretty sloppy) and after many adjustments I now can't really get into reverse at all. I know a bad tunnel bushing can cause problems but previously had no problems when the engine was off. Should that be my next step..?

Thoughts..?

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Kurt
Old 11-19-2012, 12:57 PM
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Porsche Crest Shifter improvements

Sounds like you need to adjust it. Did you replace your other 2 bushings?

See link below (4 is the key)

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Shifting Improvements
Old 11-19-2012, 04:23 PM
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KNS KNS is online now
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Well, I removed the shift coupler with the new bushings and put back in the old, original shifter with the sloppy bushings and now it is shifting fine again... Only once or twice I had difficulty with reverse, it's mostly back to normal.

So the coupler with Ed's new, tight bushings gives me a stubborn if not impossible 5th and reverse, but the old original coupler seems to be working fine again. What's going on? I always wait a few seconds with the clutch in before shifting into reverse, by the way.

The two other bushings (shift lever and tunnel) I am guessing are original, I haven't looked at them yet but they are on order.

Edit: I was checking the tech article and I'm not getting any rotational play in the coupler when in 5th so I'll have to keep fiddling.
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Last edited by KNS; 11-19-2012 at 05:18 PM..
Old 11-19-2012, 05:05 PM
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adjusting can take a few tries - some people nail it right out of the gate, some take severl attempts, but you got the old one to work so you must have some success at it - here is the difference, with less slop in the linkage you have to be more precise on the adjustment - so being "off" on sloppy bushings still gets you past the gate where as being off on more precise bushings wont allow that to take place -

(notice I prefer "more precise over "tight")

In your case the fore/aft adjustment sounds off, make small changes and see how it affects the issue

if your cup (on the bottom of the shifter) is worn it should not change what you have - I dont think...making that more precise with have the same type of change...it will make the adjustment needing to be more precise

make sense?

There is a big thread ran about a month ago and a couple people went way out and described the adjustment in great details, I will try and find that for you and link it

Ed
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:42 PM
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Porsche Crest Hang in there

Like Ed said; hang in there. I was one of those people who had to mess with the adjustment a few times until I got it right. My wife finally helped me ensuring the front shift bushing (new) stayed lined up parallel while I did some fine tuning in the back on the coupler.

Shifts great now for a 915.

Last edited by maui44; 11-19-2012 at 07:29 PM..
Old 11-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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KNS KNS is online now
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Thanks guys. I could usually adjust them pretty easily before but perhaps this improved coupler takes more tries.

I re-installed the coupler with Ed's bushings and got it going into all gears but with a bit of difficulty going into 5th and reverse but also with a little bit of coupler wiggle when in 5th (which, from what I've read, I should have). I didn't have that with the old coupler when going into 5th.

Ed, my problem sounds like more of a fore/aft adjustment and not a rotational adjustment, correct?

Thanks everybody.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:50 PM
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If you get 5 and R but its difficult I would say rotational

If you get either 5 or R but not both its fore/aft
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:35 PM
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Update: Both the Pelican tech articles say that you must have a little bit of wiggle at the coupler/shaft when 5th gear is selected. A couple of times I've got it adjusted so that I can get all five gears and reverse shifting nice but I get no wiggle at the shaft when 5th is selected, it is tight. Why is this important - I don't want to damage something.

Other times when I do get the required "wiggle" I have trouble with getting into some of the gears.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:24 AM
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I find it most helpful to pull up the boot on the shifter mechanism and look where the lever sits in the housing slot on the top while in each gear. Then it is obvious if you need to move fore or aft or left/right.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:12 PM
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not sure what wiggle they speak of...side to side - fore/aft but here is the basics...you want to be fully engaged in gear and have the spring tension being held off the shaft by the gate on the top of the shift housing - and the ear (tab) welded onto the shift arm...that is designed to keep the spring "load" off the gears

if you remove the slop in the coupler and have the weight of the shifter being supported by the gate - what "wiggle" is there

none

and fwiw I pulled my oil (200k miles) several times in the last 3 years and have ZERO metal hairs on my drain plug...but it does need to be set right - as Jerry says, lifting the rubber boot will give a picture of what is happening and make it really clear

sorry this is being finicky on you - like I said, some cars get it first shot, some take some tinkering - once set .... it wont change (the good news)
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:34 PM
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Last edited by KNS; 11-20-2012 at 03:22 PM..
Old 11-20-2012, 03:16 PM
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I've owned two 911s and usually get it adjusted within a couple of tries. I've got it shifting fairly nice now (like before the refurbished coupler but only now with more "precision" with Ed's bushings). In the Pelican Tech articles (link above in maui's post) they mention the importance of having some wiggle (clockwise-conterclockwise) to the coupler/shaft when the gear lever is placed in 5th. I don't have that and am just wondering what the reason for that is?

Thanks again for the replies...
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Last edited by KNS; 11-20-2012 at 03:45 PM..
Old 11-20-2012, 03:22 PM
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awe - I see now

the shaft rotation - there should be the very tiniest bit of it, almost none

THAT rotation is (if I finally read this right) the rubber bushings flexing along with the rotational slop of the stock bushings - that is why when you move the lever, the transmission doesnt shift - they is slop - that will be almost completely removed if things are snugged up - but not jammed or anything

so if you move the shift knob in any direction and the aluminum part of the coupler follows without any hesitation - that is a good thing , what you are getting from the new bushings - as soon as the knob moves, so does the transmission side of the coupler --- (not just the tunnel side - or shaft but the transmission)

did I read your question right
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:38 PM
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Ed,

I think I see what you are trying to say but is that the same thing that is mentioned in the tech articles? In those articles it is stated that they want you to select 5th gear and then grab the coupler/shaft and see if you have a little bit of wiggle/rotation. I've gotten this many times but only when the shifter isn't smoothly selecting all gears.

Now that I've got it shifting nicley in 1st - 5th and reverse, I don't have this wiggle at the coupler/shaft when 5th is selected. I'm wondering what the signifcance of this wiggle is that they are talking about.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:34 PM
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I read the whole thing again

so I think you might have another thing going on - the 911-424-063-01 carrier plate has elongated holes - if you have the coupler adjusted right and the spring force is NOT taken off the shaft and left on you can run the edge of the gear - try loosening and moving that plate over a little to get the gate to pick up the weight of the spring....

the play should be the difference between the shifter resting on the gate and the middle ground of the gear - very tiny amount



that is why these holes are elongated - so you can adjust it and relieve the tension off the gear....I just think you might be adjusting the wrong part....let me know if that helps
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:05 AM
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I once had a car that wouldn't go into reverse. Turns out it needed a clutch. I briefly wondered how long I could go without reverse. With thoughtful advance planning, I think you probably could survive without reverse. Kind of like towing a trailer - you try to avoid driving into places where you have to back up.

Recently on the radio show "Car Talk", a caller said his Jetta wouldn't go into reverse. He said he had been driving without reverse for 4 years (!)...in NYC! He said he relies on gravity & a foot out the door "Fred Flintstone style" to parallel park. Pretty funny.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:37 AM
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Ed, thanks for the continued help. I may have to wait for some more time to work on it in the following week. I'll report back once I've done some more investigating.

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Old 11-21-2012, 06:03 AM
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