Timing chain gasket
 

Does engine need to be dropped on 1985 targa to replace gasket on cover for timing chain? Thanks in advance .and about how many hours involved if it needs to be dropped?

Certainly you won't have to drop the engine. All chain tensioner work can be done simply by removing the muffler (and some assorted tinware). Just replacing the gasket should be easy, maybe a couple of hours at most to get everything off, replace the gasket, and put everything back together.

Might be a good idea to take a look at your chain ramps, sprockets, and tensioners (visual inspection, try to compress them by hand etc.) while you are in there.

That's best news I've heard since the cleveland Indians won in 1954....lol ps.has anyone actually change that gasket. I know the gasket is like 10dollars,so it's all labor..is couple hours actually possible? Thanks

I've replaced mine as part of a tensioner upgrade. As stated, remove the muffler and tin for easy access. Removal of the covers is stright forward. You are supposed to replace all the nyloc nuts and washers as well. Just toss the old ones so you won't be tempted to reuse them. I think the torque should be about 7 foot pouns/84 inch pounds. Don't overtighten them.

I'm about to do the same task (with engine out). Do the gaskets get any sealer or are they installed dry?

Installed dry is fine, sealant used there is usually the sign of a good (bad) hack job.

I like to use the Curil-T sealant on gaskets like this - seems to seal better IMHO.

FWIW, on my '89 it was the gasket BEHIND the chain cover that was leaking at about the 200k mark. This is the round gasket between the chain housing box and the cam cover. Required removal of the cam sprockets and chain box to get to it, but was still managable with the engine installed.

HTH,
Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 344kmiles

What about the spray copper gasket stuff? Any problems with using that? I think I have a leak in this area on my '88 which I rebuilt a couple of years ago.

I use Curil-T on these as well. Make absolutely sure the leak isn't actually:
-chain housing to case gasket
-tensioner and/or cam oil lines
-cam thrust plate o-ring and/or gasket

If the muffler hasn't been off recently, you're going to need a new gasket(s) there, too. On these I use exhaust sealant.

You are so hired if you can remove the muffler in a couple of hours on my car (engine is out):D. All bolts are rusted and will require cutting and the use of a BFH.:eek:

I've always found removing the muffler fairly straightforward, although my car was in California for most of its life (and its an SC, so only 3 bolts to remove). Nice thing about the muffler bolts is that if one is rusted you can just break it off, extract the pieces, and then replace it.

By the look of things the muffler bolts look like they have never been removed...
It gave me an excuse to buy an angle grinder on sale last week.:D

Oxyacetylene is the trick to muffler bolt removal. Takes about 1 minute / bolt. Especially handy for the cat, where you can't fit the angle grinder. SS bolts with bronze nuts comes apart nicely every time - I use 5/16 SAE, because it's easy to come by and 13mm wrenches fit.

It's helpful to disconnect the 2 rear motor mounts and drop the engine a couple of inches to get the rear sheetmetal piece out.

My engine is out, but not yet on a stand...
You are not kidding about the cat bolt being out of reach...

If you jack the rear of your car way way up, you shouldn't lose any significant amount of oil.