AC Compressor Hose Help

[jimthe1st]

Originally Posted by mfiazzo

I would recommend buying a new line, this way you are sure it will not leak again. I would then fill the system with nitrogen to check for leaks before you pull a vacuum. A vacuum is essential if you want the system to be free of air and moisture. This will insure your system is operating properly. If you have a set of guages, you will need to pull a vacuum of 28". After you reach 28" of vacuum shut the guage off and make sure the system holds the 28" (just another way to check for very small leaks). Before you charge the system make sure you bleed the air out of the middle hose on the guage or you will have defeated the whole purpose of pulling a vacuum. Any other question PM me.

How do you pressure the nitrogen to as much as 500 PSI to check for operational condition leaks? If you suggest using the system compressor then will the A/C lubricant oil circulate with nitrogen well enough to prevent compressor damage.

[jimthe1st]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

Any system that is open to atmosphere has moisture in it simply because all air has water in it. That is the relative humidity. The world's lowest recorded relative humidity value occurred at Coober Pedy in the South Australia desert when the temperature was 93 degrees and the dew point was minus 21 degrees producing a relative humidity of 1 percent. The average Phoenix humidity is between 35% to 40% according to my quick Google research.

I don't know what the volume of air is in a 911 system. With all the hoses and parts is is a decent amount however. My vacuum pump runs for a few minutes before it starts to struggle.

Yes, it is physically possible to charge the system without pulling a vacuum but it would be a waste of time and refrigerant. It is physically possible to charge it with propane but I sure would not want to try.

Within just one second of being open to the atmosphere it has pulled air to every part of the system. Every bit of that air has moisture in it, even if you live in Coober Pedy. 100% of the air has no value as a refrigerant and only messes up the AC system.

pulled air to every part of the system

Pulled? how so?

How does air, moisture laden atmosphere, get into the system that has just been drained of refrigerant, now equalized to local atmospheric pressure?

Majic?

[jimthe1st]

I once removed, years ago, a suspect pressure switch and tried to get the new one in before all the refrigerant escaped. Gloves, but hands got to cold and I had to wait. Installed the new switch and recharged and the system and it still works find today.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by jimthe1st

pulled air to every part of the system

Pulled? how so?

How does air, moisture laden atmosphere, get into the system that has just been drained of refrigerant, now equalized to local atmospheric pressure?

Majic?

It is called air pressure. The atmosphere is forced into the system by the few miles of air above your head.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by jimthe1st

How do you pressure the nitrogen to as much as 500 PSI to check for operational condition leaks? If you suggest using the system compressor then will the A/C lubricant oil circulate with nitrogen well enough to prevent compressor damage.

I don't go for 500 PSI just 250 or 260. Let that sit for a few hours and if it does not drop no leaks likely. The bottle has over 2,000 psi in it. The regulator lets me dial in any pressure I want. I use the same bottle to fill my tires with nitrogen. The regulator goes from 50 to 600 psi. I see no reason to put more than 260 in the system.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by jimthe1st

I once removed, years ago, a suspect pressure switch and tried to get the new one in before all the refrigerant escaped. Gloves, but hands got to cold and I had to wait. Installed the new switch and recharged and the system and it still works find today.

In that situation the oil likely still has some refrigerant boiling out of it. Very little air got into the system since it was out-gassing the entire time. In a situation where the hose connection breaks like the OP the system was open long enough to boil off all the refrigerant. Your situation was not ideal and most likely you would see an improvement with a new receiver dryer and good vacuum before a recharge. If it ain't broken don't fix it.

[Josh D]

It looks as if the nut bottomed out before the tubing was able to mushroom after the ferruls. I would remove the nut and ferruls and see if they can be slipped back over the tube. If not, that hose end will have to be replaced. If the nut and ferruls can be slipped back over the tubing, slide them back as far as possible, slide the tube into the compressor body as far as you can push it, slip the nut and ferruls back into position and tighten nut while holding the tubing tightly against the compressor. It's possible that the ferruls can still grab the tube and pull into the compressor body causing the end to mushroom and seal.
After doing this, give the tube a few good tugs to see if it holds. It's worth a shot.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

It is called air pressure. The atmosphere is forced into the system by the few miles of air above your head.

The equal to atmospheric pressure in the system immediately after discharge (without mechanical evacuation, i.e., no vacuum) pushes back with the same force.

It will not rush in. It will mingle.

Pull a vacuum and THEN bust open the system you got moisture throughout instantly.

There is no argument to not pull a vacuum for atmospheric air is dead space and it's not intended to be there by system design.

[jimthe1st]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

It is called air pressure. The atmosphere is forced into the system by the few miles of air above your head.

That would require a vacuum, relative to atmospheric pressure, and I don't see that happening since all that was done was opening the system to bleed down to atmospheric pressure....

[jimthe1st]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

I don't go for 500 PSI just 250 or 260. Let that sit for a few hours and if it does not drop no leaks likely. The bottle has over 2,000 psi in it. The regulator lets me dial in any pressure I want. I use the same bottle to fill my tires with nitrogen. The regulator goes from 50 to 600 psi. I see no reason to put more than 260 in the system.

Kudoes to you, but very few of us have ready access to a nitrogen source such as yours.

[jimthe1st]

Originally Posted by Josh D

It looks as if the nut bottomed out before the tubing was able to mushroom after the ferruls. I would remove the nut and ferruls and see if they can be slipped back over the tube. If not, that hose end will have to be replaced. If the nut and ferruls can be slipped back over the tubing, slide them back as far as possible, slide the tube into the compressor body as far as you can push it, slip the nut and ferruls back into position and tighten nut while holding the tubing tightly against the compressor. It's possible that the ferruls can still grab the tube and pull into the compressor body causing the end to mushroom and seal.
After doing this, give the tube a few good tugs to see if it holds. It's worth a shot.

I would visit Home Depot first for a newe "nut" and ferrule..

[jimthe1st]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

The equal to atmospheric pressure in the system immediately after discharge (without mechanical evacuation, i.e., no vacuum) pushes back with the same force.

It will not rush in. It will mingle.

Pull a vacuum and THEN bust open the system you got moisture throughout instantly.

There is no argument to not pull a vacuum for atmospheric air is dead space and it's not intended to be there by system design.

But it can only "mingle" at the point of opening. Wouldn't it take a relatively long to time, in minutes, for enough "mingling" to occur to compromise the system.

Not denying OP needs to pull a good vacuum.

[brads911sc]

WWEST is that you?

Does it really matter? AC systems are designed to use refrigerant, not air. Any amount of air, which includes moisture will degrade system performance. In a system where you can spend 3k and still be below Honda Accord standards it seems silly to even debate this point...

Originally Posted by jimthe1st

But it can only "mingle" at the point of opening. Wouldn't it take a relatively long to time, in minutes, for enough "mingling" to occur to compromise the system.

Not denying OP needs to pull a good vacuum.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by jimthe1st

Kudoes to you, but very few of us have ready access to a nitrogen source such as yours.

It was not expensive. I have had it a long time but I think it was less than $100.

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by brads911sc

WWEST is that you?

Ha ha - I was thinking the exact same thing when the hair splitting rhetoric started!

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

Ha ha - I was thinking the exact same thing when the hair splitting rhetoric started!

Me too.

Bashing Griff, misspellings and needless arguments.

Also came on line in August and after 17 posts he is already wrestling for the hell of it.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by jimthe1st

Autozone carries the EXACT same R/D as you might purchase at Griffiths for 3 times the price.

UAC Parts/A/C Receiver Drier (RD10108C) | 1988 Porsche 911 Carrera 6 Cylinders B 3.2L FI | AutoZone.com

$21.99, R-12 and R-134a compatible.

Here is a RD for $12.10, Willy.

81 1981 Porsche 911 A/C Receiver Drier - Climate Control - APA/URO Parts, Four Seasons, Metrix - *********

[Bob Kontak]

[brads911sc]

Poor guy. He couldn't even find the cheapest RD. if you are going to base everything on price then at least do it right.

Lol

[wwest]

????

Haven't posted much since being banned expired....