Powder Coating
 

Hey fellas! Not sure if I'm going about this properly as I am new to the forum but a recent customer of mine told me about the forum and I figured I would post about my work.

Here are a few shots of some 1968 912 parts I refinished.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384485414.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384485446.jpg

If anyone is interested in having anything refinished please feel free to contact me.

Thanks,
Christian

This Forum is a more appropriate place.
Porsche 911 Used Parts For Sale & Wanted - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

Thanks Ed. I will post over there.

you could stick around and explain the difference between powder coating and ceramic coating...

the advantages of of powder coating over epoxy paints, etc. etc.

Power coating facility......
 

Where are you located? Thanks.

Tony

I am located in Bergenfield NJ.

I will certainly post up advantages of powder over traditional painting applications. Give me some time as I am on my phone at the moment and I will share what I know as well as some reading to reference on the subject.

I would be interested to know more about how you get the gold Cadmium tone on the brake shields. Is this just a metallic gold powder?

Great to hear, you are right down the road from me....had been driving into NYS to get stuff coated.

Welcome.

The owner and myself discussed how the original brake shields were originally zinc plated and we were looking for a powder to somewhat simulate the original look while adding the corrosion resistance of powder.

The powder that we decided on is a gold with a very fine subtle metallic flake.

Hope this helps.

Great! Would love to do some work for you in the future and save you those toll fees ;-)

Powder coating quote.......
 

Based from your picture, how much would be the cost for powder coating these parts? Thanks.

Tony

Powder Coating
 

Please call or PM for pricing.

Christian

Powder Coating
 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/17/bupyvety.jpg

A Vette cluster panel I did. Gloss black bezels with satin background.

For those that have bikes. Some Harley Davidson parts I recently did in Satin Black.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/21/9use2evy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/21/3y4uhy5e.jpg

I am still working on a nice write-up of the advantages of Powder over traditional paint applications. In the meantime I figured I would share some more stuff I have reconditioned. Hope you enjoy and Happy Thanksgiving.

Some Headers I did in Cerakote High Temperature Satin Nickel

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385497371.jpg

BMW E30 M20 Valve covers done in Chrome Powder


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385497424.jpg

Maybe you can address something I've heard on off-road forums: some claim that a good epoxy paint is less likely to chip off from rock hits, and easier to touch up if it does chip.

Good question and one that has been asked many times.

This question comes down to a few things.

There are 2 main reasons why powder chips. If applied properly, powder should not crack and flake off.

#1 Reason why powder cracks - Poor metal prep and or pre-treatment!
#2 Reason why powder cracks - Powder has been applied to thick for the intended application


An explanation of metal pre-treatment:

Pretreatment involves the stripping of any existing corrosion or coating, the cleaning and degreasing of the bare metal, and the creation of a surface finish adequate for a powder coat.
The objective is to leave a clean and slightly rough surface profile as an anchor pattern for the powder to adhere to. This profile is referred to as either a "tooth" or "anchor" because the powder effectively bites or anchors to the substrate to form a mechanical interlock between substrate and powder. This "anchor" or "tooth" is best achieved in my experience by media blasting. This can also be achieved chemically using phosphates prior to coating.

Secondly, coaters with hobby grade powder guns and limited experience tend to coat parts entirely too thick thus degrading the performance of the powder ultimately resulting in coating failure.

If powder is applied correctly and substrates are properly prepped and treated you should never see chipped powder.
Powder cannot be touched up which is one of the very few downsides to alternative coatings such as epoxy paints.

Hope this helps clear that up a bit.

always makes me wonder when people are reluctant to post pricing for services they offer. you obviously have coated those parts and passed them on to the owner, so you were paid, so why not just post what something like that job cost as an example? even if you gave that person a discount you could still post what you would charge joe somebody who walked in off the street so why not offer the same consideration to the forum where you are trying to drum up business?

I would love to post up some boiler plate pricing but I think by doing this it serves as an injustice to not only my business but to my customer. Each and every job that comes through the door is unique in its own way and deserves eyes on to give an accurate price. Pricing is also affected by the region your business is located and what the market will bear.

I will however "offer some consideration" to forum members and tell you the parts pictured above will run anywhere from 250 to 350.