Restoring the washer system on my 1971 911T

[Neilnaz]

I recently decided to restore a washer system to my 1971 911T which has none of the parts except for the original wiring. There are two rubber bungs where the nozzles once would have been and no piping or washer bottle, pump (etc.). I recently acquired all the parts and then discovered that the small bracket that the underside of the reservoir mounts to is missing.



I decided to replace this using a piece of cast off aluminium, a little effort, some epoxy and some paint. The part will not be noticeable even when I open the trunk and rummage about but I would like it to be a reasonable effort.

This is where I am so far.....



The holes in the bracket will help with sticking down using epoxy. The inside of the trunk is painted black. I intend to paint the assembly after it has completely dried.

More pictures to follow....

Cheers, Neil

[jittsl]

Wow, nice work. Better than the block of timber with a slot cut in it that I used.

[OsoMoore]

I'd like to get mine working again on my SC. I'm looking forward to your picture and account.

[RichardNew]

This should be good. We all need this system restored on the early cars.

Richard

[Hawkeye's-911T]

Sub'd

[bavaria911]

Neil, Can you show a set of photos showing the entire washer system. Below is what I am starting with, the tank and pump motor are working and leak free. I'd like to see the clear hosing and connectiions from the pump to the squirters. I understand their are special T-fittings, can someone explain and where Do I buy these?
Thanks,
Scott

[Neilnaz]

Here are a few more photographs showing where I have got to.

Trial fit of the aluminium bracket I made:



Epoxying (is that a word?) in the bracket:



The view from above:



Primed and Painted black to match the rest:



Pump installed on the side of the reservoir. I decided to use stainless CV boot ty-raps and short pieces of rubber on the front corners to keep the pump in place. There are moulded parts on the side of the reservoir that locate the pump. I have used a a belt and braces approach here just because I wasn't sure the pump would stay in place on its own.



The next picture is of the piping connected up.



I followed the following diagram:



Parts are available from Pelican and (I suppose) other suppliers.

There are none-return valves that connect into the nozzles. There is a T-piece that enables the pipe to split feed both nozzles. The nozzles are tricky to install as you need to remove a panel and parts of the heater/vent system and also, depending on the state of the holes in the bodywork, some slight adjustment to the rubber nozzles to allow them to fit through and seal nicely. Either the nozzles were too large or there was too many layers of paint to enable the nozzles to be pushed through to seat correctly. I ended up cutting a little of the rubber away and the nozzles sit neatly and are 'popped in'.

The T-piece in the system that is near to the pump is a special Air-bleed T-piece that I have yet to receive. The one pictured in previous photographs is just a standard one that means that the system does not pump correctly as water just pumps right back into the reservoir.

More photographs to follow as I complete the job.

Cheers, Neil

[Neilnaz]

Bavaria911 your reservoir and pump are connected up just like mine is. The T-piece shown in your picture is the Air-bleed T-piece that I do not have as yet. The output of that is fed to tubing that you feed along the LHS of the car to the (US Driver's side) nozzle. A standard T-piece is inserted here so that another feed can be routed to the other nozzle.

I will show pictures where I have routed the tubing. There are none-return valves at each nozzle to prevent air getting back into the system.

I hope that is helpful.

Again, further pictures will be posted that should help you envisage what goes where.

Cheers, Neil

[RD911T]

Subscribed

[Neilnaz]

I managed to route the tubing from pump to nozzles this evening. There are plenty of ways of getting between the two. I decided to tie the tubing to existing cabling in the trunk. I suppose you could run it separately. After all it is usually hidden by the carpeting so it isn't a major issue.

The above shows the nozzles installed. I did need to 'adjust' these to fit as the rubber that fits through the hole was too wide at its base. Your results may vary here....



Here is a picture of the underside a nozzle with the none-return valve in place.



Some pictures follow of the tube routeing and a wider view of my trunk area. I do need to give it all a good clean - so much dust!







I only need wait for the T-piece and test the system now. I hope this has been helpful to a few others.

Cheers, Neil