82 SC blower motor shot!

[J-RAD]

The engine compartment blower motor in my '82 SC Euro is going. It is screaming like you wouldn't believe. Has anyone replaced this? Is it a big deal? It doesn't appear to be. Also, the only place I've been able to find a replacement is here (Pelican Parts). It is ~$250. Seems pricey but maybe I don't have any other options. Also, am I correct to assume that no "real" damage occured while driving it this way...it really is only responsible for air flow to the passenger compartment correct?

[emcon5]

I have heard of people just unplugging them. It seems most of the airflow for the heater comes from the engine cooling fan anyway.

I think it was Superman who did this and noticed no difference in heater output, but I could be wrong.

Tom

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82 911SC Coupe

[wckrause]

The aux blower motor only helps at idle, when you're not getting much air from the main engine cooling fan. I got through last winter's driving without it, but I think I'm going to get it fixed this fall.

I'm hoping the same shop that rebuilt my alternator can fix the motor for a lot less than a replacement.

In the mean time, you can just pull the relay.

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Bill Krause
'79 911SC Euro
MY PELICAN GALLERY

[Nickshu]

Check your e-mail.

Nick.

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_ _ __ _ _
Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe
nickshu@yahoo.com
PCA -- Rocky Mtn. Region

[Alan Herod]

There is a solution other than using another substandard motor. I have been a die-hard Porsche fanatic since the 50s but the electric motors are the worst, and pricey too. I had the shop that rebuilt my alternator, replace the blower motor with another manufacturer's, works great.

If you check some of the tech write-ups, one of the ways to get some of the heat out of the engine compartment is to have that blower motor augemnt the engine blower. Then it helps to defrost in winter too.

[cab83_750]

Although I wear cowboy boots 365 days per year (IN HOT SOUTHER CAL.), I like my feet warm. I had no choice but to rebuilt. Additionally, I understand from this BBS that I can be used to supplement the cooling of the engine.


I pulled mine 4 times already. It is possible to yank it out; however, you may have to find the 'right' angle for it to slide to the left of all the fuel metal lines.

The fuel lines will give way by removing the plastic clip that connects/organizes the lines.

Be careful the first time. You might bend them.

By the way, I also rebuilt mine. $200+ was a lot of money!!!!! Cost me $20 bucks by buying a non-working one and making a functional unit out of the two.

[beepbeep]

Heck, i throwed out mine. It doesn't do any good anyway, just dead weight

[Wayne 962]

If you can find a used 914 one, they will fit with some slight adaptation of the housing. I personally think $200+ for a blower motor is outrageous as well, but I don't set the prices from Germany!

-Wayne

[autobonrun]

Two areas to look into. 1) As mentioned in the earlier post, check some electrical shops for rebuilt units in stock or the ability to rebuild yours.

2) You have nothing to lose, so open up the motor yourself. Mine completely failed and if I remember correctly, the only problem was was a sticking brush. If yours is only making noise, check for a loose part that's rubbing or bearings that have gone out. While inside, check the winding resistance to make sure it is good.

If the windings are still good, an electrical shop should be able to rebuild for less than $100. My car is a 79 and I'm only assuming we have similar blower motors.

I agree that the only time I can tell a difference with my blower is at idle.

[tbitz]

My blower motor has also failed. I have removed the blower and the hoses and the engine compartment is much cleaner.

I am looking at backdating the heating. I need to find the older shroudes that have air from each side go directly to the heat exchangers.

People have done this. Do a search in the archives....



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Tony
'78 911SC

[Superman]

I have fiddled with these and find that rebuilding is a little difficult but can be done. One motor I saw had a plastic squirrel cage that was molded onto the shaft. I have no hope of rebuilding.

but the others have a detachable squirrel cage and so you can take the brush plate off. the front bushings of these motors are goofy swivel-type things. Like a magnesium marble with a hole drilled through, mounted so it can swivel. My favorite electrical motor repair place says replacement swivel bushings are not available. Oh by the way, the screaming you hear is this bushing.

Anyway you can ream this thing out carefully with a rotary tool and press in a standard brass bushing. If you do this, use a LONG bushing. The swivel thing is deep.

Of course, you could also spooge some moly grease on that screamer and it might get quieter for a while. I think you can also turn the motor upside down. Might help for a while. These things die eventually because of that goofy front swivel bushing.

Brushes are easy to find. And yes, mine is just unplugged and I don't miss it. My drivers' side heat burns my leg sometimes.

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'83 SC



[This message has been edited by Superman (edited 08-12-2001).]

[FRED/LI]

Solution: Machine a new bushing out of bronze or brass as a second choice. The old one can be used as a guide as to dimension. The key to this is matching the shaft and hole. Mic the shaft and figure a few thousands for clearance. It should be possible to match a drill to fit.
Throw a little graphite grease in there at reassembly.
I've done this on three cars. It's a chronic ailment.
On my '84, the failure of the bushing actually cooked the unit and ruined the $120 heater relay.

[J-RAD]

Wow, thanks for the great response guys! I think I have this guy handled!

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1982 911SC Euro

[RoninLB]

Although I haven't done this to this specific motor, I drill a hole from outside into bushing area, insert 3 in 1 oil, years later they are all still silent. My eng. blower in on a seperate switch, it's on at my convience, not every time you lift the heater lever...............Ron

[87-911]

Superman and FRED/L1 reported sucess in rebuilding the engine compartment heater blower. Mine (87) does have the removable blower wheel. The wheel seems to be a slip fit on the threaded shaft. The wheel and a warped spring washer are held in place with a nut. Problem is you can't grasp the shaft to stop it from turning so you can remove the nut and blower wheel until you have removed the blower wheel. Anyone know the secret??

Thanks!

[cab83_750]

Assuming I understood your problem correctly....

There is no secret to removing the nut. try using WD-40 and let it soak for a while. You have 2 routes from this point:

1. Hold the wheel with your left fingers to prevent it from turning. And using your right hand (wrench), remove the nut; or,

2. Hold the wheel with left fingers and with a wrench in place, hit the wrench with a hammer or so (more like making an "impact wrench" force).

I had the same problem, but try and try. It will give in.
2

[Superman]

It should work to hold the squirrel cage. It sounds like you have the metal squirrel cage. I think the non-removable one is plastic.

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'83 SC

[Reg]

didnt read all the posts, but I did think I saw one for sale on ebay.

I found it at ebay.ca (canada)

[makaio]

My blower just went out as well, I tied Pelican, but they didn't have one for me. I picked up a used one, from Parts Heaven for $50.

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Matt Chamblin
78 911 SC

[Jdub]

Something else to consider is unhooking the switch from the levers. I have a toggle switch that lets me turn my blower fan on and off independent of using the levers (manual setup, obviously).

Doing this means you can pull the levers up for ambient heat via the rpm of the engine, or turn the fan on as needed. As for the screaming fan, take it out, take it apart, and grease up the dry areas and reassemble. I have done this and it works.

Jw