Working Oil Preassure

[patz]

[1ricardo]

Yep, i did not see any of that! not even the line under the body going fwrd

[patz]

Then you need the oil lines, external thermostat and the cooler. Not chep, open your wallet and call Elephant Racing.

Or buy used bits and piece it together, good luck.

[LakeCleElum]

I found a factory trombone set for $350(Thank you Superman).....Included brass lines and thermostat....Money well spent........Also, pull your shroud and check cylinder fins for dirt and blockage....Clean engine oil cooler also.

[patz]

^^^that.

[Reiver]

Avoid the trombone if you can and get an actual oil radiator....look for a used Carrera (84 on up).
I've a stock Carrera unit on my '83 SC and run 200 degrees (oil) in 110 degree ambient Az temps driving hard. Will hit 210 if stomping on it but levels there and drops when cruising.
Any temp below 90 degree ambient and I'm at 180-185.

[chrismorse]

Originally Posted by 1ricardo

Yep, i did not see any of that! not even the line under the body going fwrd

Hi Ricardo,

You are lucky to have an 11 blade fan, but skimped not having a thermostat, lines and cooler.
There are many threads covering the hot, early, 2.7

We are cursed by the factory's caving to smog regs and the corresponding hot running temperatures which shorten the life of almost all parts.

Most did not come with the thermostat, brass lines or any kind of cooler, so it is up to us to get the cooling.
I would agree, skip the trombone and go for the more effective Carrera Cooler.

I am looking into cutting a hole in the front valence to get more air to the cooler, as well as blocking off the valence to cooler open area on the bottom to prevent the air from bypassing the cooler.

Just like all water cooled engines, the thermostat is there to get the engine up to an efficient operating temperature and KEEP it there. IMHO, you want more cooling capability available, so that the thermostat can control the amount of oil flowing to the cooler to maintain the most desired, efficient temp.

You do not want to overcool the oil or let it get into high temps with corresponding low pressures and insufficient film thickness to protect the parts from wear.

Have more cooling capacity than you need and let the thermostat do its job and forget about it. (well not really, you still need to keep an eye on it :-)

I, like many others have gone with Chuck's, (Elephant Racing) recommendations and lived to tell about it - Seriously, I don't think he will steer you wrong.

chris

For the record, Chuck sold me a set of used brass lines , a new 85 cooler and a new thermostat, call him to see what he has available.
Unless you are tracking the car really hard, I don't think you need either a center front cooler or a pair of front fender coolers.

[MrScott]

Originally Posted by 1ricardo

I made a video of it and posted on you tube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcjeKrNI7o8&feature=youtu.be

And the alternator light is half way lite! when the ignition key is on the light is very bright, when the engine works the light became a little bit lit, in the video appears to be much more then in reality

Alternator light and overheating - loose fan belt?

[toddu]

Bouncy tach usually means your voltage regulator is going bad. Use a voltimeter or get one of those meters you plug in the lighter socket. Make sure it's not over charging your battery.

Todd

[1ricardo]

Hello

Thank you all for the input! Iīll take a look on it (alternator belt, voltage regulator, oil cooler, etc etc etc ) LOL

[dfhtrhjn]

My '77 got warmer than I preferred as well. It also had no external oil cooling just like yours. If you don't mind running the oil lines yourself you can save a lot of money using stainless steel braided AN-12 lines with a Mocal AN-12 external thermostat. Then you can choose which kind of oil cooler you'd like up front. I used a Setrab cooler and the quality is excellent. Our host carries some of the parts the Mocal thermostat and some oil coolers, but Patric Motorsports or Elephant racing will have everything you need. I ended up purchasing from Patric Motorsports because their prices were better for the parts I needed.

If I were you I'd call and tell them what you have and what you'd like, they'll put together a parts list for the oil cooling system that will take a lot o the guess-work out for you.

Hope that helps.

[1ricardo]

Hello
Mocal have the 2 type remote and non remote i guess

Remote Oil Thermostat - -12AN Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat

Remote Oil Thermostat - -12AN High-Temp Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat

The I run the SS hoses to the front wheel arch where I will install the the radiator and thatīs it?

I was looking for the ER stuff, but itīs very expansive

Thanks for the help

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by 1ricardo

Hello
Mocal have the 2 type remote and non remote i guess

Remote Oil Thermostat - -12AN Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat

Remote Oil Thermostat - -12AN High-Temp Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat

The I run the SS hoses to the front wheel arch where I will install the the radiator and thatīs it?

I was looking for the ER stuff, but itīs very expansive

Thanks for the help

New is not always necessary, here is a post from my experience.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/482806-oil-cooler-details.html
Lots of used parts in the world, try Parts Heaven in Hayward Ca. or EASY in the east bay, they may ship internationally and used car parts "can" have a very low import value.....
Also try eBay

[Craig]

Everyone has great advice about the oil coolers and lines, etc, but I would back up a little bit first. You said that when you started it and it got to 185 degress, the pressure started dropping. This could be because of not the right weight of oil (20-50), or maybe not enough oil .
If it were me, I would change the oil first with a good 20-50w, non-synthetic, and get the right amount of oil in there. This will give a good known baseline to start from, then you can see if your temps are really a problem and need an oil cooler.
Just an FYI, not trying to be smart, but you do know how to check the oil - car running, warmed up, and on level ground, and that these cars take almost 12 quarts of oil.

Craig

[1ricardo]

Hello Craig,

Thanks for the input I thing Iīll start there, will check my oil level first, the change it and start from there
About the oil check Iīm glad you told me, although i had heard about it in the past Itīs always good to refresh my memory
Now some thing that i donīt know:
How do i fill up the oil and check the level? I heard that itīs not good to overfill it, so what is the correct procedure to change the oil, check the level and donīt overfill it?
Also I notice that there are a few 1976 911s that the oil pressure gauge reads 5bar (around 75psi) and mine reads 10bar (around 140psi)
So whatīs the correct one?
Another thing that i heard is that there are an increase of around 10psi per 1000 rpm the engine max rev at 6500 so the maximum oil pressure should be around 65psi, so WHY?????? my gauge goes all the way to 140 psi?

Thanks

Ricardo

[Craig]

Ricardo,
The oil change procedure is pretty straightforward. But, when you drain the oil be sure to drain the engine AND the oil tank, not just the engine. The oil tank is on the right side of the car behind the right rear wheel. Have a big pan ready with a big opening to catch the oil, becasue the oil drains FAST. Replace the oil filter, and then fill with oil. I usually put in 10 quarts, and then start the engine and check for leaks. If no leaks, take it for a short drive, enough to warm the car to operating temp, then check the oil level - car running, level ground. Add more oil as needed, most like to keep it halfway between the marks on the dipstick.

My 77 has the 140 psi gauge also, never thought about why. But on cold, Colorado winter morning, my pressure has been at 95-100 until the oil warms up a little. I don't push the car at all until the temp gauge gets to around 100 degrees or so, and the pressure drops into the normal range. Takes about 5 minutes.

[chrismorse]

The mocal thermostats are good, but they do not have the high pressure bypass to keep from blowing up your cooler when pressures get high.
The factory thermostat incorporates a high pressure bypass and many think it a worthwhile safety feature.

I have a Mocal thermostat on my 77 308 Ferrari, because the stock set up had NO thermostat and it took about 2 weeks for the oil to come up to temp here on the cool California north coast. At the time I installed the new cooler and ss lines, I was unaware that Porsche had a pressure bypass, or I would have gone through the work to adapt the fittings.

good luck,
chris