Ken's 911E

[kghjr]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye's-911T

Good Luck Ken - Thanks for an enjoyable thread

Cheers
JB

Thanks JB. Whoopsie Daisey, noticed an oil drip. It could be minor, it could be pull the engine. We'll know tomorrow. I'm trying to pull the listing but there are already two minuscule bids. I pulled the reference here. I sure as hell cannot sell it with an oil drip and no warranty. The warranty does not transfer. I'll have to get this fixed right now.

Update : The listing is on hold until Feb. It goes in on the 1st to get a new flywheel seal and a general once over. Also, I can put 800 miles on it and do the required first 2000 mile valve job at the same time. The drip is insignificant, won't impact driving it for 800 miles. Better for the buyer not to have to worry about a valve job for 12 - 15,000 miles.

[kghjr]

Follow up on the clock rebuilt by Seattle Speedometer, kept it analogue. After eight months, five of which were sitting in the garage, one minute slow. I'ld call that a 5-star A+.

It's totally old school. You can hear the tick, tick, tick if you are standing next to the car in the closed garage.

[kghjr]

I took it in for the first valve adjust, get the flywheel seal redone and check out the rattle in the front right. Some rattle. The welds came loose on the jury rigged contraption the previous owner substituted for the hydropneumatic struts the car came with. The strut was just flopping around.

I broke it driving the piss out of it, was this close to catastrophic failure at speed.

There is only one thing to do, new Bilstein struts, new ball joints.

[kghjr]

Bilstein struts installed, oil changed, valves adjusted.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Once again car looks great Ken, good luck!

[kghjr]

Thanks Shaun. Your work sure is the iciing on the cake.

[kghjr]

It looks like Christmas; red, green, silver, gold







The hydropneumatic struts had been modified to take inserts with a welded threaded cap that looked like a backyard mechanic had dreamt it up. I broke one of the welds on a cap and thought better fix it correctly.

[kghjr]

Ouch! Over estimated that one greatly.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Ken, I think the final price was bang on for Hagerty #2 valuation.

[TxGerman]

Ken, just curious, how did you get your hubs so clean? I have been scrubbing mine in my parts washer, using engine cleaner and just can't get the 39 years of oil, dirt, grime out of the aluminum but I have been hesitant to use anything more aggressive. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Dennis

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by TxGerman

Ken, just curious, how did you get your hubs so clean? ...

dry ice or baken oven cleaner.
there are also some aluminium bleacher one can use but I don't know the product

[kghjr]

Originally Posted by TxGerman

Ken, just curious, how did you get your hubs so clean?

Dennis

I sent them to Shaun at Tru6, along with all my engine tin, suspension and brake parts. He takes it all back to new OEM specs.

This is his work

[kghjr]

More of Shaun's work:

All coatings are OEM part specific.



He refinished the trailing arms and pressed in new bearings and bushings

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by TxGerman

Ken, just curious, how did you get your hubs so clean? I have been scrubbing mine in my parts washer, using engine cleaner and just can't get the 39 years of oil, dirt, grime out of the aluminum but I have been hesitant to use anything more aggressive. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Dennis

Originally Posted by kghjr

I sent them to Shaun at Tru6, along with all my engine tin, suspension and brake parts. He takes it all back to new OEM specs.

Thanks Ken. Dennis, hubs are cleaned, studs removed and then media blasted and then tumbled with specific media and agents. Bearing races are then pulled and new ones installed. Studs are either done in orignal black zinc phosphate or Cerakote and then reinstalled.




A recent job.

[TxGerman]

[QUOTE=Shaun @ Tru6;11246048]Thanks Ken. Dennis, hubs are cleaned, studs removed and then media blasted and then tumbled with specific media and agents. Bearing races are then pulled and new ones installed. Studs are either done in orignal black zinc phosphate or Cerakote and then reinstalled.

Wow! Impressive. Thanks for posting the info, I'm going to send you a PM with a couple questions.

Dennis

[CuberR3]

That looks amazing!

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thanks, what I like about the way I tumble them is the surface is sealed so they won't oxidize for many many years. I can also Cerakote Clear them making them so slippery they are hard to hold so brake dust and road grime doesn't stick and washes off with the hose.

[kghjr]

Hiding out on the bank of Clear Creek, which happens to be the creek that runs through the Coors Brewery in Golden, Colorado.

[fbarrett]

Just fell across this thread. Since I lived in Lakewood, Colorado, for years and drove a '70 911E in the same red color, it's very interesting to me. I knew Storz Garage founders Bill Randle and Al Lager, both gone now, and my car(s) graced their shop a few times. In fact, they named their shop for a 1950s Porsche factory mechanic, and Larry Braun created a sculpture of him working on a four-cam engine. Larry owned the Gloeckler-Porsche that had somehow found its way to Denver, and I helped him trace its history. The car is now owned by Herb Wysard in Fullerton, California. But I digress.

I got my E in 1973 and drove it home from Kentucky with collapsed hydropneumatic struts, so the first job for me was changing to torsion bars. I autocrossed and time trialed it heavily, then in 1992 ran it in PCA's first club race, at Second Creek, near Denver. It was our daily driver and went to several Parades. I put well over 100,000 miles on with no engine work. Stupidly, I sold it in 2002 to help pay for house remodeling, but the new, younger, owner learned track driving in it at Mid-Ohio. He sold it to a guy in California, and we lost track of it. Here's my late wife driving it at Aspen in about 1974, before I Hoovered off those ugly side stripes.



Of course, it originally had 14" alloys, but the steel wheels had a set of bald Michelin XWXs for track use, as that was the trick set-up in 1974. Torsion bars were 22s and 27s, I recall. Did most of the work myself, including lowering it, with advice from the late Grady Clay, who became a friend. Today I still have the '65 912 that I bought in 1968, but that's another story. I loved the E because it had bottom-end torque and could beat an S out of slow corners and in autocrosses. The MFI made the engine so smooth and responsive. Even today I would pick an E over an S any day of the week. OP, if you get to any Rocky Mountain Region events, keep your eye out for a geezer driving a lowered white 912.

Frank

[Bimmers4Life]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

Thanks, what I like about the way I tumble them is the surface is sealed so they won't oxidize for many many years. I can also Cerakote Clear them making them so slippery they are hard to hold so brake dust and road grime doesn't stick and washes off with the hose.

Shaun..........you work is outstanding. It is nice to see such attention to detail.