Porsche 3.2 valve adjustment

[terenann]

I've adjusted the valves using the backside method. Went around a second time to double check the adjustments and all lower valves are correct and the upper valves were loose and needed to be re adjusted. Went around a third time to check the clearances, again all the upper valves were loose. Tried one more time and the same thing again. They are not far off. Any thoughts on what is causing this?

[944s2cabriolet]

Get a better mechanic?

Bad joke I know.

[DRACO A5OG]

Try the OEM way and see if that changes things.

[sc_rufctr]

(I got your PM)

I haven't tried the backside method. My engine comes out every two years or so and that when I do mine.
I use this method but it's very difficult if not impossible to do it with the engine in the car. There's just no room for the Gauge.



Try the conventional method using something like this. (Available from our host)



1978 Porsche 911 SC Coupe - Cylinder Head & Valvetrain - Page 4

[bigel]

Dial method is certainly a no brained when the engine is out of the vehicle.

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for removing the engine every two years?

[proporsche]

Hi Boys..personally i only use my hands feel and no tools or gauges to do valve adjustments..i`ve been doing it for over 30 years...

Ivan

[Cevan]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Hi Boys..personally i only use my hands feel and no tools or gauges to do valve adjustments..i`ve been doing it for over 30 years...

Ivan

That's wonderful, but how does that possible help the OP?

[jlex]

Originally Posted by Cevan

That's wonderful, but how does that possible help the OP?

Easy. It encourages him to tap into The Force.
Just get the Kirk adjustment tool. You'll never look back...

[proporsche]

basically ,forget the method he is using and go back to basics, use the proper tools as Porsche is using for years
Ivan

[Flat6pac]

Thread pitch is 1mm per revolution Spray the oil off with carb cleaner you get a better setting.
Bruce

[proporsche]

+1 ...Bruce..;-)

Ivan

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by bigel

Dial method is certainly a no brained when the engine is out of the vehicle.

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for removing the engine every two years?

Cleaning and fettling... (I have no life)

About every 2 years. Sometimes longer. Depends on what's happening in my life. I've owned the car for over 20 years and it's been out about 7 times I think. Not really sure. After my divorce it sat for 6 years because I was raising my kids on my own and didn't have time for the car. When I first bought the car I made a jack that support the engine and gearbox so I can get it out easily on my own. I also built a test stand so I can run and tune the engine when it's out of the car. It takes me about 25 minutes total to get it out. Another 20 minutes to mount it in the test stand. I find it's the best way to get to everything and take care of those weepy annoying oil leaks plus I've done a gearbox rebuild and engine reseal during all of this. After 20 years it just adds up. It wasn't a conscious thing it's just that I enjoy working on the car. My goal has always been to keep it factory fresh. No dust in the engine bay or frunk. Super clean and tidy inside, outside and under the car. I'm thinking about a complete respray soon. The paint has seen better days.

I could go on and on. Everything has been sorted on the car. It had sat for over ten years before I bought it. I was in rough shape. Most of the electrical switches, bulbs etc were either broken or not working. Interior was very tired and the head lining looked like some had "weed" on it. All the rubber was rotten. Not pretty but it was cheap.

20 years just like that!

[Canada Kev]

Like I've always said, learn the "correct" standard method with the 0.004" tool and only after you're comfortable with that, explore other alternative methods.

It really is a simple job, not necessarily easy on all rockers, but simple. Yes there are tricks to make certain aspects easier and more accurate, but the fact is you're just using a piece of metal as a spacer between two other pieces of metal to get them to sit the correct distance apart. Basically, if you can get the feeler out from between the rocker and the pivot without much trouble, it's not too tight. Like anything else, practice will make you quicker, more accurate and the job easier.

I've tried the back side method and found it not always the best way for me. It's just another arrow in the quiver of tools and methods to do a job. Use what's best for you at a specific time and place - #6 intake might be easier to access using the back side rather the front side with feeler and some others by a different method. The only way to know is to get comfortable with the other ways to do a job.

[ClickClickBoom]

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/846673-kirk-engines-valve-lash-adjustment-tool.html

[jlex]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Cleaning and fettling... (I have no life)

. When I first bought the car I made a jack that support the engine and gearbox so I can get it out easily on my own. I also built a test stand so I can run and tune the engine when it's out of the car. It takes me about 25 minutes total to get it out. Another 20 minutes to mount it in the test stand.

25 minutes to drop the engine? Any way you could post a picture of that fabricated jack?

[aread]

Originally Posted by jlex

25 minutes to drop the engine? Any way you could post a picture of that fabricated jack?

Shoot, if it's only 25 minutes, I'd like to see I video of that process!

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

If your tool looks exactly like this when you are done... then you aren't doing it right!

[proporsche]

Hi boys..it is quite normal if you know where to put your hand on your 911 and have the right tools.I believe Peter can do it no problem..When i was younger i did clutch jobs under 1 hour and the car left the lift....
Ivan

[gregwils]

While some people do use the backside method as a means of adjustment, it seems more use to verify the topside method is correct. I like tools like the Kirk adjuster because access is so difficult to manipulate the gauge, adjust the screw and tighten the bolt all at the same time. A worthwhile investment to ensure consistency and accuracy.

[Drisump]

The carb cleaner tip is a good one. The film of oil that our oils (hopefully) provide mean that there is almost a sticky quality making accurate interpretation of the resistance on the feeler very difficult. Good on ya Peter! I have two buddies who have long relationships with their 911's ....and the facilities to do easy engine removals. They can BS while working and still have the engine/tranny out within a half an hour. Ivan I can see that an experienced guy can adjust the valves in a 911 by feel. When I do mine the traditional way, I double check by "feel". I simply don't have any luck inserting the proper feeler into the space when properly adjusted. Many times I have adjusted a valve and it didn't pass the "feel" test. It's a do over. Cheers