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Oil cooler line and tstat mounting points
Hello allo. I've done the search for this and don't see any pics. This is a project I've put off doing for a while, just not a priority. I have sourced the parts over the years and they are stored in a rubbermaid bucket in the garage. I figure I'd get at it now. I thought there be pics on line showing where the brackets for the lines/tstat are attached to the car but I couldn't find them. Can someone posts pics of where I should drill into my car for the mounting brackets for the lines, from the back to the front? I figure why reinvent the wheel when someone has done this already and it would take out the guess work on my part. Thanks very much for your help.
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
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What year car and what year oil lines? Factory T stat? Front oil cooler or trombone?
I have a Carrera tank, under the trans oil line and mostly '83 oil lines with a front bumper cooler in my '71. I could post pictures if you want. My stuff is all custom mounted with custom fittings and may help, depending on what you are doing.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
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This may help?
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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I had the factory one with factory lines, looked like trackrash's on one of my cars. On my other, I mounted a Mocal in the same place and made custom lines. You'll get equal cooling performance either way.
The one thing I changed with custom lines is I routed them high up in the fender well to give my larger wheels and tires the clearance they needed next to the body.
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Steve '66 912 - Polo Red; '74 911s - Silver Carrera RS clone '77 911s - Peru red IROC Clone '89 964 C4 - Guards red |
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Yes, we need to know the year of the car.
Many cars have the stud, or at least a tapped bung, above the rear wheel to mount the clamp for the lines to the T-stat. Again, many cars have the brackets along the bottom of the rockers to mount the clamps for the lines to the front wheel well. They are the same brackets used to hold the S-trim onto the rockers, if your car has that. There are also places in the upper wheel well to mount the clamps for the flex lines to the cooler. Much of what you may or may not have is dependent on the year/model of your car.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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I would imagine 74-77 based on his lost engine comment .
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Thanks for the comments and pics. Correct, '74. Lines are oem, tstat oem and rad type cooler. Lots of clamps came with the lines I bought!!
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
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![]() Here are the mounting points of a later model 911. ![]() ![]() ![]() For your 74 you will have to spot weld tabs like these ![]() to your rocker area ![]() Hope this helps. Len
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disband
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the lines tie to the rocker mounting studs along the body
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78SC PRC Spec911 (sold 12/15) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7I6HCCKrVQ Now gone: 03 996TT/75 slicklid 3.oL carb'd hotrod 15 Rubicon JK/07.5 LMM Duramax 4x/86 Ski Nautique Correct Craft |
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Quote:
Thanks! Bill |
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So left the car jacked up on stands from winter storage to do this upgrade (finally!!). I have all the parts and cruised the site just to familiarize myself with the task. Looks easy enuf. Best idea was the rivet nuts... going to get a manual rivet nut tool. Figured I'd use it for other work and it looks like less effort than the $2 bolt, nuts, wrench thingy. I see two items that would be the biggest challenge. Moving the horn, which I can tackle (haven't decide to do the suzuki horn replacement yet) and the other is the upper bracket.
On the elephant instructions, there is the "Z" shaped bracket. This bracket is not available for separate purchase, and it looks easily enough to bend out of metal stock. I am wondering if someone has measured the distance of the metal between the "L" bends, to save me some time. Otherwise I'll wing it via the trial and error method once I determine how far up on the back of the headlight housing it needs to be. Thanks and I hope the weather gets warmer so I can work on it in the garage....
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Quote:
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from our host, just search for that part number, $11 OEM, $6 repro
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=9115011250
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His car already has them on there. Doesn't it? It's what the rocker panel is bolted too. If you wanna run the rocker panel too, it helps to buy the longer bolts.
![]() ![]() In my case they got squished up and deformed from time and misplaced jacks. You just have to straighten them out and viola, no spot welding required.
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Duane / IG: @duanewik / Youtube Channel: Wik's Garage Check out my 75 and 77 911S build threads Last edited by 75 911s; 05-15-2018 at 11:44 AM.. |
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Maybe his car doesn't have them? Was just showing hm that the part was available from our host. Off to look for the part number for the suzuki replacement horns to see what they look like..... kinda set back a little as I need to run out and get some rivet nuts... going with aluminum ones, should be easier to crush them in.
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just commenting so I can find this later as I'm about ready to need it.
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Jeremy Brooks AKA VWLOOSENUTS ***My cars are built to meet my approval, not yours!! My money, my cars, my happiness. |
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Ok, here's my other thought. That top bracket, I'm thinking of using slotted metal strapping (strapping I have is pretty thick gauge) as it will be easier to work with and it will be strong enough strength wise, plus you won't be able to see it once the cooler is installed. Thinking of putting a rivet nut into the slots and come from the headlight side with a small screw into that rivet nut at one end and a longer screw at the stone guard end the fab mounting bracket. I think that will be easier than using a nut and bolt. These articles on PP are great, cuz they point the way, and after reading them, and visualizing what needs to be installed, it doesn't seem to be all that difficult. We'll see.
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Project is almost done. i plan to post pic of the install here as a contribution on my part as PP is a wonderful resource. As electrical is not my strong suit, can someone chime in here. The oil cooler I have does not have a thermostat on the backside, which is fine cuz I decided to run it manually. So I purchased a small switch to put in the dash, it has three prongs on it and it says it lights up. I put in a fan on the cooler and it has two wires. Can someone direct me in how to run the wires from the relay to the switch/fan? Thanks a bunch.
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So, the top bracket you are referring to is I assume the one that attaches to the headlight bucket?
If so, those are available new from Porsche as is the bottom bracket which I'd recommend using both in addition to the rubber isolaters. |
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As promised I am posting the oil cooler install as reciprocation to other PP members who have posted before me. I'm going to do it in separate posts because it is several steps and I get timed out and lose everything I type in. I didn't quite follow some of the members posting for the parts that some of them I have used.
1. needless to say in preparation for the install I remove the tires, drained the oil tank and engine of the oil and removed the old oil line from the J line to the oil cooler and the rocker covers. 2. I removed the horns to relocate. Fortunately for me I had the horn bracket that attached to the bottom of the headlamp. Instead of buying a horn relocation bracket I had some spare slotted brackets that I cut into a four-inch piece and a two inch piece. I took the horn brackets to Home Depot to get some nuts and bolts to relocate the horns. You can see the slotted brackets in the picture below. ![]()
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