Rear trunk hinge pivot cup replacement

[alphacrimedog]

I was looking on EBay and was watching the price on a pair of rear hinge pivot cups and blolts. That place in Atlanta was selling them. But what I found interesting was the fact that they said that replacement instructions by "Dr. 914" would make the job a "snap". Is the job really that easy? It looks like the old ones need to be grinded off and the new ones welded in the correct position. Whose right? Me ? Or is it really "just a snap" as the good Doctor would have me believe?

BY the way, when it comes time to get some, Ill use our host.

[Jim Smolka]

Not sure what the Dr. ment by a snap, but the project does take some skill. Yes, you have to remove the old hinge piece and then weld in a new piece. Not the position of the old hinge cup before removing it. It should be centered based on a small indentation behind the hinge cup. This is what I used to position and weld in the new unit.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Sure, it's a snap if you are an expert welder.... (The legal term is "puffing"... Think, "Marketing-speak". AKA, "not quite lying." )

I am told that it is a very good idea to spot weld the threaded insert to the rest of the hinge bracket. Evidently they are just lightly tack-welded, and are not that difficult to break loose.

--DD

[HMeeder]

That little assembly was originally pop-riveted in in the early years (later welded) and they weren't the sturdiest things. Mine separated from the body. When I got my replacement, like Dave says, the threaded boss spun free from the cup assembly. I think the only thing holding it together was a coat of paint. I tacked the boss to the cup and that solved my problem. Works great now.

Now, technically, if you were to replace an early hinge cup by riveting it in, I guess it would be a snap (or 'pop') to replace. I welded mine in and it did take some contorting to get access to that area.

Good luck

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Here's what you have to do. Take off the trunk lid, engine lid, remove all electrical and fuel connections from the area, disconnect the battery, prep the mteal around the area, tack the new piece into place, then use an arc welder to weld the perimeter. Douse the mtal with a spray bottle, then prime, paint and re-attach the lids, fuel lines, battery and electrical connections.

[alphacrimedog]

Gee, After reading Jared's response, I guess it is a snap. Just like the "good Dr. 914" said. Yeah, right....if you are a rocket doctor. that is. Nothing is ever as easy as you think it will be, especially on a 914. Thanks Jared for bringing me back to reality. I knew I needed to seek a Second opinion.

John

[alphacrimedog]

I appreciate knowing about the small indentation to center it on. That is a relief. Since the threaded part is not welded in there very well is it possible that I just need to re-weld mine rsather than to have to repl;ace it? or is that just wishful thinking?