Testing a fuel pump

[nuts4nine14s]

I want to test my fuel pump to see if it is actually working. Do I just hook up a car battery to the 2 terminals and see if it pumps?

The reason I ask is because I just finished checking all the wiring in the engine compartment and I had to make a few repairs. Everything is hooked up correctly except for my FI harness which is with Bowlsby. Should the fuel pump run for a few seconds when I turn the key even if the injector harness is not hooked up?



Luke

[nuts4nine14s]

Ok, hooked the fuel pump up to a batt and it won't go, so now I need a 70-72 fuel pump. Anyone have one for cheep in working order?

Also, there are three markings on the 3 inlet/outlets on the fuel pump. I don't think it was hooked up right. Which one goes where?

S - Top
D- Middle
R- Bottom

S = Suction?
D = ?
R = Return?

Thanks for the help.

Luke

[nuts4nine14s]

Found what I needed hope this applies to the 1.7

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_specs/914_20FI_diag.htm

[lapuwali]

Suction, Druck (pressure), Return.

I believe a pump for any year 914 will work. There are also plenty of aftermarket pumps that will work. If you're retaining D-Jet, you need one that can supply at least 35psi. You might try removing the pump from the car, wiring it up on the bench, and tapping the case here and there. Sometimes old electric motors just hang up. If and when you install a new pump, you should strongly consider mounting it under the tank rather than in the engine bay. This is a factory mod to reduce the chance of vapor lock. It will fit in the area where the steering rack is quite nicely.

[914GT]

I tested mine on the bench, as well as did some modifications on it. You can even run water through it for testing and it won't hurt it, as long as you shake/blow the water out and run a little gas through it before putting it back on the car. Since these are brush-type motors I have seen them become intermittent due to a dead winding. If the motor stops on the bad winding then it may not start back up the next time. If you bench test it, make sure it will start repeatedly. One last thing, wherever you mount it, use some rubber vibration mounts or bushings to isolate the pump from the chassis. This will make it a lot quieter as it will conduct less sound to the car.

[lmcchesney]

Luke,
It seems that the previous posts cover pretty much your questions. Just a note: it is probably me, but when I studied DD's illistration of the pulmbing, I got confused. It would have been better if the middle diagram was position above to allow for continuation of the supply lines via the centeral tunnel. The blue lines go to the blue lines.
Pumps on the net runn from about $100 to $20.
When you reposition your pump under the tank, place extra long feeding fuel lines from the tank to the pump to allow for future removal of the tank and ease of removal.
Good luck,
L. McChesney