brake proportioning valve

[DK914]

I'm in the middle of a 320i-caliper front brake upgrade, and my question concerns the rear proportioning valve. According to PP's tech article, it's adjustable...but to the point of equal line pressure front and rear? I've heard in some cases you can remove the valve entirely, which is the effect I'm going for (only with less work!) Brake bias should be okay, with Pagid competition pads up front and stockers in the rear calipers. Thanks in advance, guys.

[mikey]

hey......I am just finishing the same upgrade. I think it's very worthwhile for 32 bucks a caliper. I also am upgrading to braided steel brake lines. I put the old, stock front calipers in the rears. Are you keeping the stock rear calipers?? I ditched mine cause they were leaking and didn't feel like paying big bucks to replace them. That's what started this whole project. Now I gotta think about what to do for an e-brake. I heard it wasn't safe to take out the proportioning valve...

Mike

[John Rogers]

Both our 914s have had the p-valve removed and brake lockup on the rear has never been a problem. The pedal feels much firmer and my daughter likes it much more that way.

[Neal Colingham]

Where did you get your 320 calipers, I am
going to do this soon. Just gathering info

Thanks

[mikey]

31.99 at Kragen. Make sure you get the "ATE" type calipers, not the "Girling" type. Then you have to buy pads ($16 per side), and then clips and retaining pins, and shims for the pads. For everything, it was about $120. Oh ya, also need to rebend new steel lines for the fronts.

[DK914]

I bought a kit from German Parts and Restoration that that came with Girling 320i calipers that had been pre-machined to fit (I think it's the 1973 to 1976 cars that need the machining done--check the PP tech article to be sure; on the earlier cars they bolt right on unmodified)plus the brake pads of your choice, plus the retaining pins and clips. The whole thing was $400, a bit pricey, but the calipers are brand-new and it avoids the hassle of running around to do the machining, etc. I know the article recommends the ATE calipers--any potential problems with the Girlings? I was able, with the help of one of those hand-held tubing benders, to re-bend the stock hard lines to the calipers with great results...maybe with the ATEs the fluid inlet is in a different place and requires all-new lines.

I am keeping the stock rear calipers--I'm lucky 'cause they're not leaking. Over the weekend I spoke with Mike Mulligan about a small Wilwood caliper that works as a parking brake...mounts to a bracket that clamps under that huge bolt that secures the strut to the "dinosaur bone" suspension arm. Mike, if you read this, please supply more info. Thanks!

[John Rogers]

I have the small mechanical brake calipers that Mike was talking about and hopefully I can get them mounted this week and I plan to write an article for the PP site here. They are a small alloy caliper with a lever that will clamp the pads to the rotor. I had to make the brackets and they will use the shock mount bolt to attach to the trailing arm. There also will need to be longer e-brake cables made and there is a place here in San Diego that can do that for me. I bought the calipers from CNC Machine in San Diego and they also make a 22mm master cylinder that bolts onto the 914.

[Mike Mulligan]

The set up I was talking about is the one John mentioned in the above reply. In fact it was his set up I was saw at the event. Very nice solution to the P-brake problem.

Any chance of getting a drawing or some dimensions for that bracket John?

------------------
Mike
'73 914 2.0

[John Rogers]

I am getting the longer e-brake cables done today and then I 'll take the pictures as I put it together. For info, the inner cable should be approx 11 inches longer and the outer cable 8 inches longer on both sides.
Additionally, the reason the Girling calipers aren't recommended is they are an aluminum alloy and tend to corrode easily, especially where there is snow and salt.