More horse power from a 1.7

[72porsche914]

What is a good setup to make my 1.7 faster. I want at least 110hp. If anyone knows of a specific cam for a 1.7, let me know. Also, a good size for a big bore kit. What can I do to the heads? Can I leave them alone to get decent numbers or do I have to get them worked over? Im pulling my engine soon. Any and all help is greatly apreciated.

[JP Noonan]

For actual dyno numbers talk to an engine builder like FATS, but FWIW:

EBS makes a 96mm big bore kit, I have heard of previous 96mm 1.7L P/C's having sealing problems beyond 20,000+/- miles. A better way to go is to have you 1.7L heads cut to fit 1.8L 96mm P/C's. The kit is $350

The 94mm big bore kit is hard to find right know until they make a new batch, they were $165, but for that cheap I wonder how good they are.

The 1.7L has smallish valves but high compression. For 110 hp I would at least put in 1.8L valves (if you are flycutting the heads to 1.8L size anyway you may want to just start with 1.8L heads) or 2.0L valves. The more expensive sodium valves are the way to go, but are 2-3 times the cost of SS valves. Best thing would be to get 2.0L heads, good luck finding them at a decent price though.

For a modified engine look at Webbers which have a throat that is about equal to the size of the intake valve. Larger is not better. Used ones pop up all the time. Haltech and others make really good FI systems that work well with modified engines.

The cam depends on the rest of the motor, talk to the cam manufactures after you hammer out the rest of the motor.

Lightened flywheels don't make any power but let the motor rev up (and down) faster so "seat of the pants" feel in a quicker car.

BAlance all the recipocating items, from the fan to the flywheel. Again dosen't make power but the motor is smoother and can rev higher.

There are three important formulas to know:

"H.P.=$$$ How fast do you want to go?"
"There is no free lunch"
"Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you."

If you can find out if there are any Type-4 drag racers at the local track, see what they are running. Problem with going to see 914's that race are that most of them run in stock classes, or just drop in a six.

My two cents.

[sammyg2]

Ask Ed V. how he got 150 (est.) hp out of a 1.7 without splitting the case.
Add up all the money you plan on spending trying to get 110 hp with a cam and big bore kit and e-mail me with the total. I bet I can build you a turbo set up for 10% less with more streetable hp.

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Gerald Gore II (turbo2.0)

[oredith]

shouldn't that be? ...
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Gerald Gore II (small block 914)

[drew1]

I think CB Performance offers 96 mm big bore cylinders, Webers, and cams. 2.0 heads have bigger chambers, so there would be less compression on a smaller motor. Spark plug looks to be in a better location on 2.0 heads. Because of this and just 3 head bolts for a manifold, you'll need 2.0 shrouding. FAT & Mark Stephens can put big valves in heads, yours or 2.0. Cam wise, at least .430 lift and around 275 degrees seat to seat duration, with 110 - 112 lobe centers. Might want to look at WEBCAM and Integral Cams. For exhaust with heat run SSI 2.0 heat exchangers with a Bursch muffler. As someone else told you, a light flywheel will work good with a hot motor. You'll need a 009 or 050 distributor to work with carbs. Stripped wire points for the 009 are getting hard to come by so you might want to try a Compufire or Pertronix module. It would be a good idea to use Raceware studs to hold it together. If you do the assembly, this will cost $2000+.

Andrew Love

[JP Noonan]

I agree with Drew except for these minor points:

Mark Stephans is out of business.
The 009 is the worst dizzy to use, it was designed for stationary motors. Its advance comes on quick, but there isn't much advance there, maybe 12-15 degrees total. The 050 is much better, and the stock 1.8L L-Jet dizzy have the most advance of all of them I think.

[racejoe]

Hey, I would be interested in some turbo info, where can I go? What's involved? Do you loose heat exchangers?