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side shift linkage
hi all
my 75 914 side shift linkage broke the plastic out of the joint were the 2 shift rods join. is there anyway to replace this plastic parts or do i have to replace the hole rod thank |
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,716
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If you mean piece #25 on the diagram on the PP site at: http://206.132.69.50/914/Parts/Pedals/shift_linkage_side_big.htm
The answer is yes. I do ours about once a year. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 40
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The afore noted part number is incorrect. Looking at that diagram they are the bushings at 26. They're called Shift Coupler Bushings. You may check with Pelican first, but when I checked Tom said they are not presently buying this part from Porsche because of the high price. I was forced to go to Auto Atlanta ..their part number is 911 424 223 03. Genuine price is $34 each and replacement (replica) is $25 each. Remember that you will need two. I ordered Genuine and they were only able to supply the replica part. It should be okey, seems to be a hard nylon type plastic. Price certainly seems high but Tom said Porsche gets about $80/pr, so you gotta pay to get 'em. BTW, if you need to replace the Shift Coupling Pin the part number is 900 092 002 00 and price is a mere $3 ..but it took them over 2 months to get that to me.
[This message has been edited by Brister (edited 09-16-1999).] |
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thanks brister the bushing at part 26 is the ones that broke on mine
i looked in the book and it does not show how to replace them i have a extra shift rod so when floyd blows over im going to put it in i may look in to haveing some bronze or other type made for it john the bushing in the rear is what i thought at first i keep extras of that one thanks guys |
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
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Good move on the extras. I had some of the #26 bushings too that I picked up at a swap meet a year or so ago for $10 a pair and have since used them too. You would think they would last forever?
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Do me a big favor and tell me if you find a cheaper alternative. My 75 came with those two bushings completely missing, it looks like the PO tried shifting with them missing! Not only that but the PN #8 on the diagram (shifter bushing) was missing too. I could only get the car into 3rd and 4th. I fixed it with parts from a friends 914, but he'll need them back soon (Hahaha, well he'll need them back eventually, once he gets the floor welded in).
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,716
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JP, you might try and see if there is a place near you that sells plastics. There are much better materials than what was/is used in the factory bushings. It comes in all shapes, including rods. If I need some new ones in the future I plan to buy something like delrin , turn the OD, press in, cut the length, then bore the centers.
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im thinking i can make a pair
but i was looking at my extra rod today and it looks like the have a sholder on the in side kinda like they go in first then the pin is pressed does any one have a pic of them so i can see for sure the car goes in 1st 2nd and 3rd so good i almost hate to fix it 4th and 5th are a little tricky thanks |
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 40
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That's correct.. they have a shoulder on one side sort of the shape of a top hat. They press in from the inside and the pin holds both assemblies together. My car when purchased was missing the bushings, making finding any gear a nightmare.
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brister
thanks thats how i thought they were how hard was it to remove the pin in the middle? thanks notright |
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Registered
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 40
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It is tight. Try a c-clamp angled.. one jaw on the pin, the other on the rod.
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WELL I GOT IT APART THE PIN CAME OUT WITH OUT ANY PROBLEMS
SO IF I CAN FIND A PIC OF WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE IM GOING TO TRY TO MAKE SOME DOES ANY BODY HAVE A PIC OR KNOW WERE ON THE NET I CAN GET A PIC OF THEM THANK |
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I may be making things more difficult than they have to be but....
I don't have the rod in front of me (please, no comments from the peanut gallery), what does the pin look like? Is it a roll pin or solid? If it is solid could you drill and tap a hole on each side, then use the right sized bushings (without a shoulder), put the modified pin in and use fender washers and the screws to keep the bushings in place. Makes for a more complicated setup, and even with lock-tite the screws might fall out, but you wouldn't need to mach the shoulder on the bushing. Just find some solid Delrin stock with the right OD and drill the center for the pin. Or maybe replace the stock pin with a clevis (trailer hitch) type pin, and use a cotter pin to hold the washers. Just an idea. I'm not saying it's a good one. |
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WELL JP I HAVE IT A PART THE PIN IN SOLID
AND PRESS IN TYPE WHAT HAS GOT ME IS LOOKING AT THE PART WERE THE BUSHING GOES THE PART THAT LOOKS LIKE A SHOULDER /WASHER IS NOT ALL THE WAY ROUND KINDA LIKE A HAFE CIRCLE THE RESON I WOULD LIKE A PIC IS BECOUSE IM GOING TO MAKE THEM AND IM GOING TO BE DOING IT BE HAND WITH SAND PAPER AND A RAZOR BLADE OH AND A SAW AND I DONT WANT TO DO IT A BUNCH OF TIMES YOUR IDEA SOUND REAL GOOD TO THANKS |
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welli finly got it all togeather
i found some nilon bushing at the hardwear store for 39 cent each i ground them down on a bench grinder then drilled them i have been run the car for 3 weeks now with no problems at all thans to all who gave me input on this problem notright |
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I found the bushings for $19 for the pair. The Weltmeister PN is either 9.424.820 or F.01.06.05 CX00080142 or KP-08001 Sorry for the confusion but all thoses numbers are on the package. Tom or Wayne should be able to decifier them and get the part.
BTW I just trashed my THIRD set of coupler bushings, the car is jinx. |
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well it has been almost 1 year on my home made bushing and still going strong. no slop in it shifs fine im working on a better pair that are more like the factory ones
have a nice day notright |
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