Let me quilify my offer. I have no intension of building an oil tank that replicates the stock tanks form. I'm only interested in replicating it's size (so it will fit in the stock location)And it's function (so it properly cycles the oil) If there were conclusive suggestions for an improvement, that could be designed in. (the 1" thing in the above pose vs the 3/4") As Farleyd stated, were not out to fool anyone, just get a usable tank at an affordable price. The 911 motor is not the problem. As I see it, it's all the little parts that it takes to complete the project. Parts that can't be substituted. (yet) Lets face it. The oil tank is a big purchase and stumbling block. You can't run the motor without one. I still think if all the accsesories were priced affordably more conversions would get done.
MHO No Flames please

There are plenty of dry sump oil tanks on
the market. You can mount one in the front trunk. Here is just one example... they run 2 - 3 hundred

http://www.keynet.net/~rrracing/oil_tanks.htm

Just remember the oil tank is the life blood of your engine...

------------------

• Joe A.
• 84 911 Targa
• 75 914/6 3.0

Have you seen the tank on this car?

http://www.photoaccess.com/share/gSlide.jsp?jrunsessionid=987632896705318959&cb=PA& ID=A895E621A48

Yeah, I have. Lloyd is local. That's a warmed-over 3.2, last I heard. A rather serious race car. I haven't seen it in the last couple of years, but I haven't been autoXing or time-trialing much lately...

--DD

I don't think any one those tanks will fit in the stock location. I like that race car tank. Is that the approximate size of the stock tank or is it enlarged for more oil volume? How many quarts does the stock tank hold?

The stock tank holds 9 quarts.

The racers' tanks hold a varying amount, depending on the size. I believe the one Lloyd uses holds over 12 quarts.

The racers' tanks will not even come close to fitting in the stock location. There are many reasons that the 914-6 oil tank is shaped the way it is...

BTW, an early 911 tank will not fit either, unless you have GT flares or some approximation.

--DD

When i was referring to a 911 oil tank, i was thinking of the front trunk for a location. Dave is suggestions that a flared 914 could do it inside its fender.

Gotta check that out.

BTW. I just received a funny email from AA. They are not taking me -Quoyte_serious enough_. I complained about an aftermarket 914/6 oil tank w/fittings that they offered on Ebay, which such a high reserve price, that even a realistic bid didnt catch. He wanted 900US$.... The kinda deal AA is offering to its customers... And he said that it is normal that the Pelican forums bashes them. Dont they get it? Dont they have an idea of how people are seeing their company? But, lets not bash AA. It woulndt be fair.

Dave, Are you saying that the 914-6 is a 9 quart oil change or the dip stick would read full if you poured in 9 quarts? Does that make any sense at all? Oh ya, I think I remember reading that when you change the oil you need to disconnect the oil line to drain the tank. Is this true? If so, by doing this are you also draining the block? Does the block have a separate drain plug someplace? I know It's a drysump system and that's the purpose of the oil tank, but there must be some oil in the crankcase. If so how much?

Let's not bash them? AA? Are you kidding? They have got to be, without doubt, my favorite Porsche supplier target. Tweeks is a close second. I guess we really don't need to bash them, they already have an enormous amount of problems to deal with...like finding somebody to buy a 914/6 oil tank for $900. Way to go guys, with prices like that, you'll keep the 914 a popular vehicle for years to come. Whatever.

I have european taillight lense for a 914, I'll sell it for $17,500. First come, first served of course...

To answer the questions above, there is about 9 qts to fill the tank, and there is a couple of qts in the motor. Most 911 motors have a drain plug, and yes you do have to seperate the lines to empty the oil from the tank. To accomplish this, just remove the suction line going from the tank to the engine oil cooler (2.0 - 3.2). A 3.6 is little different, but the same concept. To check the oil level in the tank, it must be @ temp & @ idle. Reading the oil level on the stick is some what of a challenge on an aftermarket tank. Though I have a 911 fill nozzle, all it has is a couple of dots. So, it is a best estimate process especially when the oil is new. I have not a problem, but I do watch the oil level closely.

Draining the oil in a 911 or a 914-6 is fun. Especially when most waste oil containers are about 5-6 qts, and the oil tanks hold more than that.

The biggest problem with owning a big bore 914-6 is getting the little pieces of Honda VTECHs, Cobras, etc out of ones bumper after you chew them up on the Hwy http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/biggrin.gif


[This message has been edited by Jim Smolka (edited 04-20-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Jim Smolka (edited 04-20-2001).]

Okey now were getting somewhere. We've established that an aftermarket tank will need to hold around 9 quarts of oil, Ideally it should fit in the stock location, It would be nice if the filter spun on in the customary manor, And a dip stick would be a good thing.
What improvements should be made over the original and currently availible tanks?
Someone mentioned a 1" AN fittings on the tank?
Maybe a more legable dip stick would be cool.
Sounds like a drain plug would be nice.

You can't get to a drain plug on the oil because there is no room. The tank is in the wheel well and was not really designed to be there...remember, this is a 914/4 with an "optional" six cylinder.

I had to disconnect one of the oil lines to drain the tank, then open the plug to get the rest of the oil in the crankcase.

A 914/6 tank holds 9 quarts, the oiling system and crank about three-four more. I will normally use a whole case to bring it up to normal level.

You have to start the engine and get it running before all 12 quarts will go in though....8^)

Like the 911, the engine has to be warm and idling on a flat surface to check the oil level. I have seen some 914/6s with 911 oil level sensors in the dash....they are not extremely accurate though....

As to aftermarket sized tanks...it can be any size you want...more or less than stock...the extra oil just adds to the long life of a 911. It does not cool it more than a 914/4, unless you hang a cooler out someplace to get some air....

Any custom tank should use AN fittings....

[This message has been edited by mikez (edited 04-20-2001).]

Well, back from Herschey Swap, we can tell that 914/6 parts are getting rarer and rarer Not much 914/6 parts around. So far, we have seen:
a parted 914/6, sold as a pack for 3K including
(OEM oil tank, OEM engine mounts, sheet metal an some other stuff, no engine, no x-changers)

Thats it? Yeah. No other typical 914/6 soughafter part. Apart a pair of heat xhchangers, rusted to the point that you could pass a pencil thru them - at 450US$....
And a couple of headers, ranging from 75US$ (lucky Michel...) to 200US$ (lucky me....)

That alone proves the existence of this topic - ol tank - aprt than buying new, theres no other way than building on. Were on it. Keep you posted.

If someone is GENUINELY serious about building a replica tank, I can pull the original drawings from our archives. Just give me the part number.
Regards
Stef

Hi Stef, thanks for the offer. We have to say that is interesting but we are no off to do a production mass replica, i mean not for resale.

Michel Richard and I are willing to enter that new territory by curiosity and why not, saving a few $ - to put elsewhere on the car of course (sigh).

To all people, if someone could post the part number for an OEM 914/6 oil tank, that would help us.

Many thanks.

Ok, on draining the oil. Marine diesels in sailboats have worse access for draining oil than do cars. On boats, you often pump out the oil with a manual pump from a line that is tapped into the crankcase oil plug when the engine is installed. No reason you couldn't tap a line into the (custom?) tank and drain it under the car or in the fender well with gravity or with a similar little pump. A flex line could be clipped into the fender well with the spigot above the level of the oil in the tank (so it won't leak)and unclipped and dangled to drain. It would sure beat dinking around with 12quarts and a plug.
Dave

How about a petcock (a valve, you filthy-minded guys!! http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/wink.gif ) on a line coming from the tank? Perhaps on the line that you usually have to disconnect to drain the oil? A Tee fitting, with the bottom part of the Tee going to a petcock? You could keep it tie-wrapped up and out of the way for driving, then swing it down and open the valve up to drain the oil.

You'd want to have some way to positively lock it closed, though. Perhaps something as simple as safety wire, or perhaps one of those spring-loaded valves with a "notch" in the handle positioning part for closed?

Worth a thought, at least.

--DD

This is how mine is setup (velios tank & SS lines with AN fittings)

The line that connects the tank and the tube under the oil filter is in 2 parts. The 2 parts are connected together using a T fitting. The bottom part of the T has a cap on it. Just unscrew the cap on the T fitting and presto, oil drains from the tank.

HTH

Marc-Andre Morin
Quebec, Canada
70 914-6 conversion 2.2

He has done it!!!!!!! He builded its own tank!!!!! And it fits!!!!!!! What now? A bulkhead engine mount? Yes hes done it also!!!!! Talk about keeping the cost down, with some elbow grease.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...tom_tank_1.jpg

Go see that at:

www.farleydw.com/914.html

Sorry, i wasnt precise enough. I DID NOT DO THAT! Michel Richard did all the work. I just «hurray-ed» him to do so....

My excuses Michel....