Hard Starting

[Gennaro]

I have a '74 914 1.8 that is giving me fits on starting. The engine is tired and needs overhaul but I'm trying to eak it out a little longer. When cold the engine starts with no problem. Starting within a minute of stopping is OK also. But starting at other times, the engine does not want to start. When it does start it seem very weak for about 30 to 45 seconds (runs at about 200 rpm) then suddenly takes off. Getting the inital start sometimes takes over a minute of cranking. I would suspect low compression except for the start when cold, when the compression should be at its lowest.

[Tobra]

check your grounds, battery starter which gets heat soaked in the situation you describe. Decrease in temp equals diminished electrical resistance, and visa versa and the hot motor is a bit tighter, so to speak.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/POR_9144_ELswch_pg1.htm#item0
buy a starter now, or when you get the motor done. Do yourself a favor and get the 911 starter, like twice as strong or something. Portland is pretty hilly, you should be able to find a hill to park on and push start it, but I figure starters are cheaper than clutches or transmissions, and I am cheap...and spent the extra money on the bigger starter. Some people like the mini starter, but I dont care if my starter adds a pound or two to the car

[RandyLok]

When it does start it seem very weak for about 30 to 45 seconds (runs at about 200 rpm) then suddenly takes off.

If it is cranking well, I wouldn't suspect the starter.

Carbs or FI? Does it act like it's loaded up then cleans out, or more like insufficient spark? How long since a tune up? Points and dwell look good, advance plate in distributor look good and move freely? Look for any loose wire connections, check/clean the grounds starting with the terminal under the plenum where a few white wires come together. You wouldn't happen to have a spare relay board or know a buddy you could swap one out with for testing?

[Tobra]

oops, missed the cranking thing

[Gennaro]

Quick update:

I have now stumbled onto a start method that works most of the time. Throttle wide open-start cranking while slowly closing throttle. Engine fires when throttle about 1/2. Runs at the low RPM for about 2 sec., then goes. I have no idea what is going on.

Gennaro

[Tobra]

You should not need to touch accelerator when starting if stock FI. Maybe an injector issue

[RandyLok]

My owner's manual says to cold start with throttle wide open. But I don't.

It shouldn't be doing this. So again.... Do you have stock FI? How long since a full tune up?

[Xtreme5280]

I've had my '73 2.0 since new and developed a hard starting problem that was even more pronounced in hot weather or when participating in road course events. Stopping the car would inevitably end up in a hard starting situation. After much frustration and a lot of investigation, here is what resolved my particular problem. As you know there are two "heater boxes" one on each heat exchanger. There is a metal "bell" to deflect the heat outward when the red heater control switch is "not" engaged. Unfortunately, on the passenger side just above the heater box is the ... you're right, the fuel pump! When a hot engine is shut down, the heat from the heat exchanger / heater box dissipates upward to the fuel pump, heats up the pump, and creates a vapor lock. After sitting for a period of time, continuous cranking will eventually start the engine but it takes a while for the lock to clear. RESOLUTION, at least for me. Remove the "bell" from the heater box on the passenger side and attach some flexible tubing with a metal clamp and redirect the tubing away from the fuel pump area. I routed mine to the center of the car. Of course this particular problem along with some other issues, led to the redesign of the fuel pump to the front of the car.