Gas Lines

[Keith V]

I am about to begin the project of replacing
my center tunnel gas lines next week. After
reading the Pelican tech article many times,
my questions are:1. Is there any major benefit to using the English flared fittings and braided flexible lines at the ends of the metal lines, as opposed to using quality cloth braided rubber gas line hoses which are clamped at bothe ends? (I realize the braided lines would have better "burst" resistance.) And 2. Does anyone have any more "tips" from their experience with this procedure?
Note: I called Pelican parts to order the "kit" of parts for this procedure (as descibed in the tech article), however I was told they no longer offer the kit due to liability reasons.
Thank you in advance for your advise.

Regards,
Keith

[halbl]

I do not see a liability issue with respect to the parts. It has to be a concern about the installation, which is understandable. It has to be a safety improvement to go from 20 plus year old plastic to metal! Start by locating your fuel pump up front per recommended upgrade and available kits. Then diagram the connections to the rear and exit the firewall with an "elbow" fitting. Then I recommend the cloth stock gas line, to the filter, and so forth. Take this to a good brake shop and let them lay it out on the counter for you. I did it and am perfectly happy. Incidently, as a result of several "Pinto" fires Ford started putting inertia switches in the rear of the car. I'm putting one in line with the fuel pump near the tank up front. As a security device I can park, whack the magic box and disable the engine. That and the Club should do well.

[JP Noonan]

If you follow the article you should do fine. I think they added some of my comments to the article but here they are again anyway.

It depends what year your car is. The 70-74 cars have a 5/16" (7mm) return line and a 3/8" (9mm) feed. This is why the factory used that expensive 9mm to 7mm rubber line between the feed and the pump (the 70-74 pumps have 7mm inlet and two 7mm outlets). Also the tank has a 5/16 inlet but a 3/8 feed. THEN you get to the back with the fuel rails, they are also 5/16" (well, this is one I'm not 100% about, so check it out for yourself first) so does it really make sense to use 3/8" at all? I guess the factory did it because the 70-72 cars also had 6 cylinder motors so a bigger fuel line was needed. If you have a 70-4 car I suggest using a filter with a 3/8" inlet from the tank(make sure to use a FI filter and not one for a carb) and a 5/16" outlet. From there go to the 70-4 pump inlet, then to a 5/16" feed though the tunnel, an elbow at the back, a steel line up to the fuel rail (remember to use a heavy duty grommet when you go through the engine sheet metal) or a braided steel hose. On the return line also use 5/16" back to the "damper" on the pump then to the tank via a brass "T" fitting (the T fittings I've seen were plastic, I don't know if this was factory but I think brass is a better idea).

If you have a 75-6 things are a little different. The factory used 5/16" line on both the return and feed. A 3/8" feed "can" be put in but the factory gommets are 5/16" and make your life miserable BTDT. Also then you will need an adaptor from the pump to the line (here is another one I'm not 100% about, check to see what size the 75 pump outlet is). So just put 5/16" in for both.

The other thing is I put the lines in a 75 2.0L with factory exhaust and a bolt on deep oil sump, so it can be done. However, like most things on a 914, it is easier with the engine out. Also a second person helps, they can feed the line down the center tunnel while you feed it though the grommets. Which reminds me, wire lubercant (the type electricians use to pull wires through a conduit) or liquid soap help getting the lines through the grommets.

[Mark_B]

I'm looking at moving the pump in my 73' To the front like the 75-76. Would it be better and/or easier to use the 73' fuel pump or get a 75-76 pump. BTW thanks for all the info JP!

[Rich B]

I got a fuel pump off a '75 complete with
the mounting cover and installed it into
my '72, cutting a hole in the fwd bulkhead
in the same location as the '75/76.
To me this was the easiest way, I had spent
alot of time trying to figure out a way
to mount the '72 fuel pump without
having to buy the kit.
Been that way for a year, wouldn't change it!!

[JP Noonan]

When I bought my 75 one of the problems (besides it not starting, and would not go into any gear other than 2nd and 3rd) was the pump was seized. I had to use a 72 pump from a parts car. It was a pain. I guess if I was doing the lines at the same time it wouldn't be so bad because the tank would already out.

However, I have A/C in my car, which takes up most of the front trunk. I simply had the lines run out the various holes in the bulkhead and mounted the pump (easy acess) in the trunk next to the condensor. What I used was a filter (I seem to remember it being from a 90's jeep cherokee) with a 3/8" inlet and a 5/16" outlet, unfortunatly it is also the size of a bloated Coke* can.It helps to convert the 3/8" outlet of the tank to the 5/16" inlet of the pump ( at the time I had a 74 tank in the car). Then I used a 3/8" NPT coupler with a 5/16" hose barb to 3/8 NPT, and a 3/8 hose to 3/8 NPT to go from the pump to the 3/8 feed line on my car. Like I said it was a pain. Think about how old the pump is, and do you really want to do it again. I would buy a new 75 pump and use the stock filter and mounting for a 75.
BTW the 72 pump finally died so now I have to take the tank out and start all over because of the second ruturn line isn't needed on my new fuel pump.




*Coke is a registered trademark, in using it I lay no claim to it or the Coke Co. Hey better safe than sorry, who knows, they might be jerks about it like a certain car company, but I digress.