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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: beloit wisconsin USA
Posts: 8
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rear wheel bearinga
Hi I think i need to replace the rear wheel bearing in my Porsche 914, I was told you had to have a specail berring puller. I was also told it only sells for 200.00 I was wondering if any of you knew of a way to change the berring without using that puller... If you do Id apreciate the help.
thankyou Mike |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
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Yes the bearing can be removed without a special tool and I am sure Pelican will sell you a bearing for less than $50. The trick is getting the new one in without buggering it up. If you want more info, lay some E mail on me but be advised I believe in the "Brute Strength & Ingorance " approach involving various implements of destruction.
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: beloit wisconsin USA
Posts: 8
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That sounds like me half the time! hehe
heres anouther question. i got the rear rotors off, is the hub behind the rotor pressed on? i got the 23mm center nut off, now i have to get the hub off! Thnkx Mike |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Flowery Branch, GA USA
Posts: 51
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I have done this without any special tool. Here is how I did it.
1) Remove Axle Hub Nut (I think you said you already have done this). 2)Removal of the CV Joint / Axle & Axle Stub: Disconnect the CV Joint at the trans. Using a stout hammer or Drill Hammer (mini sledge), drive the Stub and Alxe towards the engine until it is out. It helps to have a second pair of hand to hold the axle. 3) With the axle out, remove the stub from the outside CV joint. 4) remove the plate bolted onto the Trailing arm covering the bearing. 5) Heat the trailing arm. I did this by setting a halogen work light UNDER the arm pointing up at the area the bearing is in. 6) using a bunt rod or chisel or 1/2" socket extension(I used an old King Pin about 6" long and 3/4" thick) drive out the bearing from the back of the trailing arm. Work around the bearing. Mine took some wacking, but them came out. Just be patient and keep working them. Tonight I will post again on how I got the new bearing in. I gotta run off to a meeting. More later. 2) |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Flowery Branch, GA USA
Posts: 51
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OK...Putting the new bearing in:
1) obtain new bearing 2) wrap the new bearing and axle stub (hub) seperately and place them in the freezer...overnight. 3)Next day...clean out the place in the trailing arm where the bearing goes with some very, very fine sand paper. spray a very light coat of wd-40 in it and wipe out the excess. 4)Heat up the trailing arm where the bearing goes. I did this by hanging my holagen work light (on high) right in front of the bearing hole for a hour or so. Let it get good and hot. 5) Now...retrieve the bearing from the freezer. Slip it right into place (at least mine did). If yours needs a little more effort, use a soft mallet or rubber hammer around the edge of the bearing. Make sure it is all the way in. 6) bolt on the bearing cover. Let it all sit overnight to cool and lock in the bearing. 7) Next Day...warm up the bearing. Again, I used my handy halogen light (on low this time). DO NOT GET IT TOO HOT. Just warm. You do not want to get it so hot that the bearing seals melt or get very soft. Warm it gently. 8) Retrieve axle stub / hub from freezer. 9) Insert the axle stub into the bearing from the back of the trailing arm. It will still be a tight fit. Use a piece of hard wood or what ever you can and drive it on in. The faster you work the easier it is. Do not use anything very hard like steel to drive it in or you could really mess up the face that seals to the CV joint. 10) Once in, install the axle nut and tighten to spec (somthing like 180ftlbs I think). 11) install axle / cv Joints using NEW gaskets and NEW bolt washers (they are ribbed for a reason). New washers will prevent the bolts from backing out as you cuise down the road. Very un-cool if your axle starts flooping around. That should be it. I am doing this all from memory so if I have left something out, please chime in. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: beloit wisconsin USA
Posts: 8
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thankyou for you time and instructions!
can't wait to get it on the road! thankyou again! Mike |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
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There is lots of good advice here.One warning however. When reinstalling the hub,take care not to rock it in the bearing bore. If you do the bearing will come apart.
I made a tool using a long threaded rod 3/4 in.dia., 4 nuts for locking & squeezing the thing together and large warshers. If the bearing tips and comes apart DO NOT force it back together. This will destroy the race. Instead, remove the ball bearings & seal,put the bearings over the race and it will reinstall.Replace seal and be more careful next time. As you can probably tell, Ive prettly well screwed up this operation a couple of times |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
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Forgot something:
250 ft/lbs on the nut |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: beloit wisconsin USA
Posts: 8
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Hi anouther problem, I have the axil loose, and i cant get it outta the hub, I put the nut back on the end of the axil.
on any other can i have done this normally works. Do i need a bigger hammer? or is there a trick to it? Most Stumped, Mike |
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