WANTED: Rust Repair Pics

[retro74]

Got a B I G pair of vise grips today and got the rockers off. Outer longitudinals are not looking too good.

I noticed that there is seam sealer up against the step plate. Not sure if the longitudinal repairs can be done without cutting throug the step plate to get this all apart. PP Article is not too clear on this. Anybody have pictures of their repair work in this area?

Anybody have repair pictures of rear trunk repair?

Anybody have pictures of front fender seam (windshield to front trunk fender seam) repairs?

Thanks in advance.

By the way, when the formwe owner says "rust free," they mean that the hidden rust is free and it's thrown in as part of the deal.

Joe
74 2.0 D-Jet in restoration

[racejoe]

I don't have any pics of repairs in those areas, but have some of rust repair in general. Don't know how much help it will be, but check my project home page.

Project Home Page

My car was also a "rust free" california car. Between grinding, trimming, etc, I keep telling my wife I am throwing the car away, one dustpan at a time!

[roadtrp204]

The top seam in the bottom of the door opening is three pieces of metal spot welded together, the inner longitude, outer longitude, and the door threashold or step plate. When I put outer overlays on mine I had to also replace the step plates, they are spot welded at the top and brazed at the front and rear, plus the gussets at underneath spotted to the outer longitude.

I am also in the process of repairing the rear truck floor. The replacement piece is just the rear half. It goes from the rear tail light piece to just in front of the tranny mount hump. I plan on cutting the floor out along the rear edge of the tranny hump back and overlaying the section at the tranny hump so I don't compromise any of the strength of the tranny mount.

Get the metal as clean as possible, any rust, seam sealer, or grease really causes the welder grief and usually ends up blowing holes in the metal. Use plug welds to imitate the original spot welds, which requires you to clamp the parts tightly together. Vise grips and self-tapping metal screws work well for providing the clamping force. Try to keep the welder on time to a minimum, the heat build up warps the sheet metal fast.

[Germain]

Get a copy of

Grassroots MotorSports, May 2002.

They have a porject 914 racer and a good article on what they have repaired on the body, including pictures of the areas your talking about.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You can also look for some pictures on GRM's website. You can look under "Project Cars -- Presented by Pelican Parts", or you can just follow this link: http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/914.html

Note the sponsorship banner at the bottom of the page...

BTW, if you're into racing in any way shape or form, GRM is a very worthwhile mag to get! You only get 914 Project updates every other issue or so, but you get good general discussions on things such as rust repair, brake upgrades (a great article, BTW!!), safety equipment, suspension setup, and so on. Tell 'em Dave from Pelican sent you, so they can give me my kickba.... Umm, I mean so that they know their advertisers are still spreading the word!!

--DD