Options for replacing rear valence?

green71 · 07-29-2002, 03:56 PM

Hi all,

Got rear-ended today . . . no injuries, and as far as I can tell, no sheet metal or structural damage to my car. (It was a very low-speed, low-impact collision.) I'll confirm the extent of the damage later this week.

Meanwhile, my rear valence was torn off at three screw holes. I'm pretty sure that new replacement valences for a '71 914-4 are NLA; what other options are out there for stock or close-to-stock appearance? Can valences from other years be used? Or has anyone ever repaired damage like I've described?

Thanks a bunch.

unclerichy · 08:05 PM

Hmmm. Looks like there may be a difference between 1970- 1972 models and 1973-1976. At least it looks like they list them that way. Anyone out there know for sure?

Try calling our host.

If PP doesn't have them for the earlier ones, Performance Products has them listed. Except the listing is for all years(???).

Arlen · 07-29-2002, 09:16 PM

Give EASY a call, its a P-wrecker business in Emeryville in N.CA.

(510) 653-3178

They have all sorts of rear valences, I was just there today. You can order from them and they ship it to you is my understanding. Good guys, good parts, free coffee

Arlen

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

Don't go fiberglass.

My 6 came with fiberglass front and rear. The front crunched and cracked eveytime I bottomed out (Common here in Southern CA with the street drains). The rear just didn't hold up on the highway. I used the Steel Valence from my 1971 for the front.

I have heard that removing the rear valence helps air flow and was reccomended for the 6. You might try running without it.

How badly damaged was the valence? My front one has been hammered out a couple of time and then coated with a rubberized undercoating, which leaves the valence "wrinkled". Covers a multitude of sins.

If the drilled holes have been torn up, try installing with washers on both sides where the holes should be. You could atleast run this way until the replacement arrives.

James

green71 · 07-30-2002, 07:58 AM

Thanks for the replies everybody. I have tacked the damaged valence into position a la red-beard for the time being.

Part of the problem (that I forgot to mention) is that I have a Bursch exhaust from a later 1.7. It protrudes out lower & further than the original muffler and has rubbed a golf-ball-sized hole through the original fiberglass valence.

So I'm thinking, as long as I'm using an exhaust system from a later model, will the valence from a later model retrofit? Do the mounting holes all line up? The ones available from Pelican have a shorter profile and might provide the superior air flow thingy. Moving the exhaust pipe where it belongs shouldn't be a problem.

JWest · 07-30-2002, 08:53 AM

Yes, the later model valance will fit, and as mentioned it was shortened to provide better airflow (and to keep it from catching snow!).

Sounds like the perfect upgrade in your case.

rfoulds · rfoulds's Garage

And, you can choose the notched valance, the hole valance, or the no hole valance.
With a Bursch pipe, the notched valance is the way to go. I see them on E-bay all the time.

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

The "notched" one is the 72-76 one. I think that is the "universal" replacement now.

I don't have a rear valance on mine. The fiberglass one got too beat up to stay on, so I traded with another local for a metal one that was also banged up. Never got 'round to stripping and repainting it, though I did take the worst of the bends out of it.

--DD

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

Dave,

Don't bother stripping it, since it's going to get banged up anyway. Just beat it back into shape and use the black underside spray stuff on it. It will look fine and you won't get too PO'd when you do back into something.

James