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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,861
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It's called a free market. It's not like someone has a patent on doing exactly what Porsche did (drilling holes and pressing in studs).
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1,147
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Nope, just need a set.
AND Grow up.
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Kerry (Back on the road, sort of) 914-6 in the Werks |
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,840
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Anthony,
Sammy forgets to put the "ha ha's" and smiling faces in his post's. He is upset that he doesnt actually own a 914 anymore and HAS to drive a pretty nice Black SC that his wife wont let him work on. He wishes he had a 5 lug project. B << starting a customers 5 lug conversion tomorrow (Sun.) |
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RETIRED
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Hey buttmunch....I read the email you sent to Sammy. YOU are the one that needs to grow up....fargin idjut.....
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,840
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Damn...
Send me the email so I can see. I miss out on all the fun. This one sounds like it goes way back and I missed something. B |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1,147
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Yawwwn!!!!
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Kerry (Back on the road, sort of) 914-6 in the Werks |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 937
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GAWD - go on vacation for a week and the board gets heated up.
For the majority of the pudknockers out there, you can copy this: equipment needed: Bridgeport (or equal) Vertical mill Appropriate size drill bit for interference fit of the stud. Appropriate size countersink tool. Hydraulic press or wheel with lug nuts (or use washers of appropriate size) Wheel studs (don't care if they are metric or not - just have matching lug nuts with appropriate bevel or have a lathe available to machine bevel and make sure they fit holes in wheel) procedure: mount hub in degreed mill vise. locate center of hub. Move to one existing drilled hole center (your gonna register off this). Center of hub to center of hole should be 65 mm. Secret information is Porsche uses a 130 mm bolt circle. Each additional hole to be drilled will be 72 degrees from the other on the circumference(sp?). Secret information is there are 360 degrees in a circle and you want 5 holes equally spaced - how's your math? 360/5=72 Countersink holes drilled if stud has bevel. remove hub, press studs from back side or pull from front side. In lieu of the above, buy a kit!!!! Yippie - got my ya-yas out. What a wretched existence I live
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"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater" "Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster" _____________________________ '70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,) '73 2.0 (Just Not The Same) '74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless) |
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So now that I have all this secret info to punch into my 3 axis CNC machining center, I have a couple of questions. What are the advantages of using studs verses drilling and tapping the hubs themselves, and where do you get the studs I didn't find them on the PP site.
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83 SC Targa 00 Audi S4, Toyota parts truck |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 937
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Since you appear to be a machinist (3 Axis - WS or Slant 6 or ?), it makes the wheels easier to mount. I'm sure you have tried to put the 4 bolt ones on, juggling the tire/wheel balanced on your legs.
Not being a metalurgist or automotive engineer, I would trust studs more as I believe they would provide a stronger mount (pure conjecture). The flange is "thin" in the area you would thread, so the "thread capture" would be less than if you had full threads on a stud. I like a full nut of threads, not a 1/2 nut of threads for the stress a wheel sees. To me, a bolt could "pull" the threads under stress and whooope! Less of a chance with studs. Note that the front rotor/hub "flange" mount is much thicker than the rear flange. Nuff said? I'll crawl back into my cave now! Ron Stud diameter (OD threads) is 0.550" Hole diameter in wheels is 0.560+ Looks like 1/2" SAE would work, otherwise it's the dealer (unless you local parts store sells metric).
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"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater" "Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster" _____________________________ '70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,) '73 2.0 (Just Not The Same) '74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless) Last edited by Ron Meier; 08-05-2002 at 11:25 AM.. |
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You could use bolts if you used the early hubs. They have raised bosses for either 4 bolt or 5 bolts. If you use the studs there is plenty of metal to support the use of studs on the later hubs but not enough for bolts.
Geoff |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
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I've been beating this dead horse for several years now.......can't see any reason to quit now.
The early hubs are the way to go.........yeah, I hear that none of the late hubs have ever failed in this application.....even though they violate engineering standards on edge margin/distance.......then the stud installation cause the outer edges of the holes to yield. Try handing one of each type to your machinist and asking him which one he would use.....don't blame me if he looks at you like you just got off the turnip truck.
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JPIII Early Boxster |
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