Yet another rescue Porsche.

[TR]

F Yeah

You will be very happy with that. I love my Fat, but pity I couldn't dump the Cal smog crapola and D jet.

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by TR

F Yeah

You will be very happy with that. I love my Fat, but pity I couldn't dump the Cal smog crapola and D jet.

Thanks TR. I got the motor mount bar installed last night. Greg had warned me that the GA case was modified for a bus so there's a port with a block-off plate on the lower left front (I believe that was for a bus oil fill neck). I had to do some grinding on the bar to get it to fit. But you know I'm pretty handy with a mini-grinder

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

That's weird, I haven't heard of the block-off plate interfering with the motor mount bar! Any pics?

Yes, the opening in the bottom front of the case is for the Bus filler funnel and dipstick. There isn't room for the top-of-the-engine style in a Bus engine bay. Make sure the dipstick tube is still there!

--DD

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

That's weird, I haven't heard of the block-off plate interfering with the motor mount bar! Any pics?

Yes, the opening in the bottom front of the case is for the Bus filler funnel and dipstick. There isn't room for the top-of-the-engine style in a Bus engine bay. Make sure the dipstick tube is still there!

--DD

Sure Dave, here's a shot. It was pretty tight. I ground off about 5 threads on the bolt ends and made notches in the bar for the nuts. The bar ended up flush against the plate but that should be fine with the solid motor mounts. That plate definitely won't come off on course



Last night I got the motor back in and re-attached the CV axles. I had some nice 6mm hex head screws that had been drilled for safety wire. Old school but I'll know if any of those are coming loose!

[TR]

I'd grind a bit more off the bar so its fully clear if the fitting. The bar is over designed so there would be plenty of meat left for strength. Nothing worse than a metal to metal knock.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

Yesterday I picked up the FAT performance rebuild at the freight terminal. It does look good! They did a different set up on the carb linkage with an interesting cable bracket. It's also got electronic ignition distributor, so no points or condenser. I had them add a oil pressure sender and gauge. There's a custom ceramic coated exhaust system. My buddy came over and we got the engine off the pallet and onto my rolling engine stand. He also helped me get the transmission lined up. I'll continue prepping the engine and doing some final work on fuel lines before stuffing it back in. The 914 is already back on the hillbilly lift.

Very nice, you must be pleased,always great to see a well presented engine like that and you have the paperwork to back up the performance.
Wonder if the "brothers" engine would have lasted long on the dyno
Did you deside to go away from the original dizzy? looks like a 009 on there now as I can't see any vacuum lines? .
Bet you can't wait to test it

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by porschetub

Did you deside to go away from the original dizzy? looks like a 009 on there now as I can't see any vacuum lines? .

I didn't note a part number on the distributor. It is electronic so no need for vacuum advance.

[The Glademister]

I got the exhaust installed this weekend. It several attempts. The interior of the pipes and collector are ceramic coated so that made installation difficult. Basically what I found out (after a couple of helpful messages from Greg at FAT) is you assemble the system loosely together and then start mating up the flanges. The stub pipes were already installed so that was helpful. Also, you have to put the bolts in from the bottom but the nuts are those with a locking collar so that helped too. Most importantly though, is use some form of lubricant on the pipes into the collector. I know it's going to smoke up for a while but there's just too much resistance from the coating to twist and pull the pipes into position without some lubricant. I just used a bit of engine assemble lube. The muffler came with a nifty bracket to bolt to the tranny. I beat up the paint taking the stuff on and off but that's all just part of the learning process

[The Glademister]

Wired up the oil pressure gauge this morning and started cranking without the coil wire on. Oil pressure came up nicely and then I let 'er rip. The exhaust sounds really good. I'm not happy with the fuel pressure regulator from Summit however. It won't get below 3 PSI. The Webers seem okay with that for now but I want to get that down to 1.5 - 2 PSI.

20150413_075334_zpsdv3wqljd.mp4 Video by trscca12re | Photobucket

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I hate those bolt-on valve covers. Have I said that before? They put too much stress on the rocker arm studs, and (at least most of them) are not exactly quality items--they often leak.

--DD

[lorenzoscribe]

I had two brand new fuel pressure regulators fail while I was working on getting my 1910 cc engine to run correctly. Something inside inside fails, shuts down the fuel flow so the engine would not start.

I threw them away and got a Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump at Pep Boys that was set up for 3 PSI. bolted it to the right side of the tub to pick up the fuel line as it comes out of the tunnel, then put in a cannister fuel filter on the back wall of the engine bay before running the fuel line through a Y block to the Webers. It works great.

The Mr. Gasket fuel pump (which is green by the way ) is manufactured by Facet, a well known maker of fuel pump products both automotive and heavy industry. The whole thing is inside a sealed plastic shell with only two wires to hook up. I think I paid something like $30.00 for it. Well worth the money.

Larry Steckel
1971 Porsche 914

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

Wired up the oil pressure gauge this morning and started cranking without the coil wire on. Oil pressure came up nicely and then I let 'er rip. The exhaust sounds really good. I'm not happy with the fuel pressure regulator from Summit however. It won't get below 3 PSI. The Webers seem okay with that for now but I want to get that down to 1.5 - 2 PSI.

20150413_075334_zpsdv3wqljd.mp4 Video by trscca12re | Photobucket

You will be fine running @ 3psi,presume its a holley low pressure one? mine does the same its just not designed to go lower and theres no need to.
Nice tuned length exhaust,this design is most efficient on the T4 motor.
Guess you will be hanging out for the new racing season.

[ClausGraf]

Nice headers!

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by porschetub

You will be fine running @ 3psi,presume its a holley low pressure one? mine does the same its just not designed to go lower and theres no need to.

It is the Holley dual port 3/8" NPT in and outs. It appears to be seeping fuel now. I've got a Mallory on the way from Summit. I think the problem is the fuel pump is a bit too strong. I'm curious if there's a flow restrictor that could be put in-line after the pump to get that pressure down a bit? I really don't want to have to run two FPRs.

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by ClausGraf

Nice headers!

Thanks Claus! They are part of the re-build package and Greg at FAT said they've been developing that design for several years. My only concern at this time is the heat right next to the plastic clutch cable pulley. I'm getting exhaust heat wrap and hopefully that will prevent that from melting down. That will also help engine compartment temps.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

It is the Holley dual port 3/8" NPT in and outs. It appears to be seeping fuel now. I've got a Mallory on the way from Summit. I think the problem is the fuel pump is a bit too strong. I'm curious if there's a flow restrictor that could be put in-line after the pump to get that pressure down a bit? I really don't want to have to run two FPRs.

I can't see from that early pic what pump you are running,but yes you must have a lot of pressure for that to happen,don't think you could restrict flow effectively besides it won't do the pump much good also.
Have a look @ the pump our host sells I think its the CB Performance rotary type,these are rated and set @ 3.5 psi from memory and many of the VW guys use these without a regulator,there is a pump made by Carter and one made by Holley (blue type) these are low pressure but would require a regulator.
You would most likely get these @ a local car part supplier in your area.
Which ever you choose bear in mind you don't really need too much more than 10 psi (unregulated) from any pump you use for carbs.
It goe's without saying that you need to get this sorted for "running in" your new motor.
Good luck.

[The Glademister]

Time to let everyone know just how nuts I really am. Going with the wildlife theme (remember the three ant nests infesting car when I got it?) and making that into a racing team. It's a rough paint job that I can touch up with smoke grey Rustoleum. The graphics were applied with stencils and took quite some time. If it's good weather next weekend, we will be driving this beast.

OBTW - I got the Mallory FPR and that fixed the last fuel leak. I also wrapped the headers and collector with exhaust wrap so hopefully I won't be melting down the clutch cable pulley or emergency brake cables. The new FPR is running about 4.5 PSI but the Webers seem to be fine. I took it for a quick road test and then did an oil change. The oil and sump looked fine with very few metallics. I think we're ready!

[The Glademister]

What a great weekend! Friday I received the RaceQuip racing harnesses I ordered and got them installed that evening except for the submarine (needed some hardware). I did the shoulder belts like Porsche on the factory 914 race cars. U-bolts through the rear bulkhead. And I used the OEM attachment points for the lap belts.

Then Saturday we loaded up the car for NCM Motorsports Park. I was the event chair so we did a course layout Friday evening before storms came in. Stayed overnight at a KOA and was back on-site at 6:30 AM tweeking the course. I was in the second of three run groups and temps were still cool. The car started first crank every time. My course had a couple of somewhat tight 180 turns and that 2056 pulled through those in 2nd gear no problem. Greg from FAT had sent me a 6500 rpm rev limit rotor and that was crucial to getting good time as there were two fast sections. I was actually taking 3rd in those and after several runs got good at not only finding the appropriate gears but making the shift points. I think this transmission is a keeper! At some point in the future I do want to get a performance gear shift however. Engine oil temp barely came off the low mark so the engine is cooling well. I also touch tested the clutch pulley mount with no finger burns so the exhaust wrap is doing the job.

Next expenditure will be new race tires but that's about it for the season unless something breaks. I'm very pleased with this build and now it's time to enjoy it

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

...I used the OEM attachment points for the lap belts.

Make sure you trim the one that threads into the center tunnel. If not, it can interfere with the gear shift lever, causing issues.

--DD

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

Make sure you trim the one that threads into the center tunnel. If not, it can interfere with the gear shift lever, causing issues.

--DD

That's a good note Dave. I did have a bit of an issue with the back bolt that holds the shifter plate down. It was far enough in that the tip was catching on the shifter linkage. I couldn't get into 4th. I think it went in deeper due to not having carpet under the plate. Nothing that a few washers wouldn't fix