Trans linkage adjustment- Help!

[gatortom]

I just put a '73 F.I. engine and trans into my previously carbed '72 1.7. Engine runs great, and I'm dying to drive (and shift) it, but I am having trouble getting the shift linkage adjusted right. I have done it the way the Haynes manual says to, and also the way the tech article from Pelican says to (they're different), but- I still can't get all the gears.

The rear shift rod seems to hit the top of the engine mount bar hole.

No matter what I try, I can not get 4th and 5th.

Maybe I'm mis-understanding something?

Can anyone give me a clue?

Thanx,

Tom

[3D914]

gatortom,

Have you assured that all the shift rod bushings are in good shape - especially the one in the firewall? If this is wore out it can have a big affect. Also check the ball cup that sits on the rear ball-joint lever.

Did you check the throw-out bearing and its ball cup before you installed the tranny?

These may have all been addressed in the article or the manual, but I don't have access to either at the moment.

Regards,

[red-beard]

Did you change the entire shift rod and the front shifter, along with change the center bushing to the "sideshift conversion" unit?

The shifter changed along with the shift rod and tranny. The early and late models will not work together.

If you did change all of that, look at my tranny article on how I adjust the shift linkage. It is at the very end of the article.

http://home.san.rr.com/pb914/rebuild/

James

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

You used the rubber outer mounts on the motor mount bar, right?

That causes the bar to sag, and the shift linkage will indeed hit the top of the hole.

You need the late-style solid outer mounts. To restore the rubber "isolation", you'll need the late-style inner rubber mounts, plus possibly the brackets that hold those onto the engine case.

I'm about 95% sure this is your problem...

--DD

[gatortom]

Thanks for all the ideas. I used the shifter and linkage from the '73, and ordered and recieved all new bushings and inner rubber motor mounts from Pelican.

I think Dave nailed my problem. I did not change the outer motor mount bar attachment points. I left the '72's rubber ones in place. I had noticed that the '73's were different (no rubber), but did not change them. I hope I can swap them with the motor in place.

As for the inner mount to engine brackets that Dave mentioned, I think they were the same- I'll check tonite.

[joel_m]

Go ahead a make sure all the bushings and linkage components are ok, but in the end you may still find it hard to adjust. This is one of those jobs that will test your love for your 914. I replaced by firewall bushing last weekend (because the previous one had been rubber) and tried so hard (hoping to change the laws of physics I guess) not to disconnect the coupling under the middle seat, but I had to. Sure enough, I spent hours Sunday driving around and stopping to make an adjustment every few minutes until I was able to get all 5 and reverse. Trial and error. The instructions in the Haynes manual weren't much help (duh!)

Tips:

when you get it right, mark the position by scratching the metal at the coupling. (I did it with chalk, and it came off in no time.)

replace bushings with nylon, not rubber. By previous bushing replacement job didn't last but a couple of years. Nylon should last forever. Will save you from having to go through it all again in a few years.

when adjusting the side to side movement of the stick, remember the rod at the adjuster access hole moves in a direction opposite of what you might think because of the ball and cup underneath the stick.

when you know you've got it right, tighten that clamp down good! I got it right the first time actually, but blew it because I didn't.

make small adjustments. Zoom in fore and aft first, then the side to side.

see if you can possibly tell what position it was in before. a change in color in the metal that was inside the the other bar perhaps. Of course, if it was adjusted with a bad bushing(s) that position will no longer be good.

try to avoid using WD40 if you're having trouble seperating the linkage components at the access hole under the middle seat. If you have to, dry it up before reassembly.

Do your adjustment in a long driveway or quite street when it's cool out. I did it on a I-20 in 95+. Stupid. Requires patience, and those conditions aren't condusive to patience. You might lug 4 and 5, but at least you know you can get them.

Best of luck, and don't take your kid with you. He might learn some new words.

[gatortom]

Thanks for everybody's input. Dave nailed it. Last night I swapped the outer bar motor mounts, and solved my problem. From there, adjusting the linkage was easy.

For anyone who is still driving a tailshifter- you won't believe the difference a sideshifter and new shift bushings makes! MUCH more "driveable".

Also- going back to fuel injection makes a big difference.

So this is how driving a 914 is supposed to feel!

[URY914]

Gatortom,
Are you planning on coming to the Brumos Octoberfest swap meet/autocross Oct 12/13? Its just a short run from G'ville. A bunch of guys on the board are planning to meet there and you should come up.
Paul

[gatortom]

Paul,

I'll be there. Please p-mail me the details-directions, time, etc. `Also- any other events that are coming up.

Thanks,

Tom
toys@ufl.edu