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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Reisterstown,Md
Posts: 57
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Bought a copy of "Hemmings Motor News" the other day. And in the Services Offered section(page5829) saw this "RustBusters" add. Has anybody seen or used one of these machines? Looks like it would be good for fenders & floorboards but I don't know how well it will hold up for the structural parts of the car (suspension,jack posts,etc.). Anyway if anyone has used this process please let know how good it is or not.
P.S. They have a website www.rustbusters.com for anybody wanting to see what I'm talking about. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: antioch, ca, usa
Posts: 1,082
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A process similar to this is used in the semiconductor world, but we use it to increase the surface area of a part. It can also be used to repair or add material to a surface such as a shaft that has worn down.
The cost of the machines is going to be cost prohibitive for the home shop person. You are better off paying them to do it for you. The biggest thing to worry about is that most of the time on certain portions of our car, the rust is working from the inside out and this coating will only mask the problem for a while. It seems like a pretty good idea depending on the application.
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'73 914, 1.7, with Boxster transmission in the future?
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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I used to have all kinds of parts repaired using metal spray (in the oil industry). Mostly pump shafts, sleeves, etc.
We don't do it anymore, basically it sux. We still have Tungston carbide applied in some areas, but that is more like plasma spraying, a little more acceptable. main problem with the stuff is, it's porous, and it has a tendency to peel up. Last edited by sammyg2; 09-16-2002 at 08:30 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Reisterstown,Md
Posts: 57
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Thanks Mike, Kevin, & Sam for the info. It kinda looked like it was"To Good To Be True" deal. That's the best part of this site, is to get info from the people that have"Been There, Done that" and help each other out.
Again, Thanks Ralph 74 2.0 in good shape(sloooowly working to make excelent) |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,966
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Some years ago, I was restoring a '36 MG (in the late late '60's). The outboard headlight buckets (the Brits would have a fit regarding my terminology) wer damaged at the rear conical point by the corner edge of the bonnet (got that one right) hitting when carelessly lowering into place. How would you replace or butt weld on such thin metal in an imposible compound shape? I heard about metal spraying and had them sprayed inside with basically a pot metal. Filled up the holes fine. I filed and sanded them until they were ready for chrome. The whole process worked like a charm and I felt like a genious for hot having to source out new/used head lights. So maybe for restoring castings like American window cranks, hood ornaments and the like, it's a viable process. IIRC, the metal was very brittle and, as mentioned, porous. Haven't used the process since.
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