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beatnavy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Where the crabs are, MD
Posts: 837
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It's probably not quite as simple as that. To do it correctly, you need to remove the dizzy and take it apart to some degree.

I'd recommend reading the following thread from 914 World. Read the whole thing (eventually it gets around to cleaning and servicing the distributor). I would not necessarily do this unless you're trying to address specific symptoms (as addressed in that thread) or unless you just want to perform the maintenance and learn how to do it. It's not that it's terribly hard, but anytime you take something apart on these cars there's always the potential for more issues (and your car not running for longer than you anticipated).

Old 08-19-2014, 06:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
Jonathon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago il.
Posts: 22
OK, I read the thread , and I think I'll install new parts before I attempt taking out the dizzy and taking it apart. I did learn a lot doing the timing and the dwell, and it really wasn't as hard as I had anticipated. I just had to read instructions and think. Thanks for your coaching! Jon
Old 08-20-2014, 04:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
Jonathon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago il.
Posts: 22
Update.......... I got my new distributor and new rotor today and installed them. I didn't know it at the time, but the rotor that was in there was not Rev-limiting. The new one is. I thought they gave me the wrong one at first because it looks much different that the non-rev limiting one. The car seems to be running better now. The idle stays around 850 RPM's or so.
I'm going to take the car for a long hard ride tomorrow because the car has to get hot before the low idle problem occurs. Thanks for the help, Im learning a lot by doing this.
Old 08-25-2014, 07:06 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
Jonathon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago il.
Posts: 22
Sorry, not a new distributor, a new distributor Cap! along with a new rotor
Old 08-25-2014, 07:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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Good, simple maintenance. Good luck, and hope it works out!
Old 08-26-2014, 03:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
TR TR is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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low idle when warm

Did you resolve the problemo
Old 09-02-2014, 01:22 PM
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Jonathon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago il.
Posts: 22
I thought that I did, but when I took the car for a long hard ride, the idle dropped again. I guess the next step is to take the distributor out and clean it up, then go from there. Thanks for asking.
Old 09-06-2014, 07:06 PM
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TR TR is offline
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idle drops when warm

Hi

I'm far from and expert and have had a lot of help from a friend to resolve the same problem. I have the 2.0lt and you may have some timing mark differences and component configuration differences.

First I had to set the distributor to TDC then run the motor at 3500rpm to check the distributor timing. I don't have a dwell meter but I had pulled the distributor before and set the points very carefully and accurately. I have a variable timing light so I know when its exactly on the mark. I had also pulled the fan and painted the marks as I couldn't see them at all.

Then I drove the car around the block a few times to get it up to temp.
I checked the deceleration valve, I also isolated the pipes to eliminate it all together so I knew it wasn't the problem. I then adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body and took it for more test drives. The idle still dropped to about 7-800rpm but the idle screw wasn't making much difference. Then I adjusted the richness knob on the control unit-only one click at a time testing the car by driving around the block. The idle is now stable at 1000rpm when fully warmed up and there is full power across the range when you put your foot down. Previously it dropped so low the car stalled. I had two really bad days trying to adjust it. Fortunately my friend just reiterated follow a procedure starting with the timing and check all the components work properly which I did repeatedly.
I also did the following:-
1)Dismantled the complete distributor and cleaned re-greased and checked the trigger points. Fitted new condenser and points.
2) I dismantled the throttle body and cleaned it thoroughly also cleaning the throttle valve switch and checking the contacts where all functioning.
3) Changed the coil to one with the correct 3 Ohm resistance. Bosch blue is good I think. I'm using the old original one. Tossed the O'Reilly piece of sh-t.
4) Checked the fuel line pressure and reduced it to the correct value.
5) Changed out all the vacuum hoses and manifold hoses so there were no leaks.
6) Checked the wiring harness and made sure all the connectors were perfect.
7) Fitted new injector, intake manifold and throttle body gaskets and seals.
8)Checked that there are no other exhaust or any air leaks at all.

Main point is you have to adjust it when at operating temp.
See if that helps.
Cheers

Last edited by TR; 09-07-2014 at 12:39 AM..
Old 09-07-2014, 12:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
Jonathon
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago il.
Posts: 22
OK, thanks for the update. I have already done some of what you have suggested, so maybe it won't be too hard.

Old 09-08-2014, 01:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #29 (permalink)
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