The final result all ready for polishing. :)

Not counting the paint stripping the day before, these rims took about 3 hours to get to this point. The big plus is I have not accidentally over sanded any area of the rim
In fact other than the anodizing and scotchbrite pad, maybe .001"-.002", I have not removed any material.

BTW the solution I used was very weak, so it was fine just dumping it on the lawn and diluting it with lots of water.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads...5873_thumb.jpg

Very Cool! where does one find lye crystals? I have looked at our local hardware store, to no avail.

BTW- lye is a great way to clean a gas tank!

Common ingredient in drain cleaner, but just make sure it's 100% lye (Sodium Hydroxide).
This stuff below will work and has many dealers including Lowes.

Professional Strength Crystal Drain Opener | ROEBIC Laboratories, Inc. - The Septic Professionals

You can DIY as well, it's a common ingredient of soap.

Where to Buy Lye for Soap Making - Soap Making Sources for Lye

Very Cool! gonna have to try it!

Great photos of the process. It still seems like a bit of a crap shoot with the chemicals. Reminds me of Greg Brady, when he used this new shampoo and it turned his hair green. I'm not sure what I will end up with. But as Jim mentioned, try a polish. I did use a power polisher (7" bonnet) with a fine polish. I think I will try the heavy cut polish and see what happens. I have experience doing this with new paint so I'm more comfortable this way. Thanks for posting.

No crap shoot, personally I've seen rims ruined from over sanding and a polishing wheel won't cut the anodizing on fuchs.

This is a damn weak solution. Honestly if you can zip up your fly without getting your beans and frank caught in it, you can do this.

If your DIY conscience is hesitant, merely take the wheels to a metal polisher with instructions not to remove too much material. Polishing will first remove the harder anodizing layer (about .001-.002"), then polish the softer aluminum alloy under it. Re-anodize, then paint the background (or not).

Sherwood

OK, here we go: Mark Henry lit the fire under me. I took the wheels in, today, to have the tires removed. I will do the chem dip this week in an old garbage can lid, that I think will work. Will update soon.
Thanks!
PS - have an appointment this week to have beans and franks mended.

Subscibed
 

Great info. I'm going to be polishing the petals and edge and then painting the rest black. Has anyone ever tried to use 3M matte black vinyl instead of paint?

Mark

I've never been a fan of the black relief on four bolt fuchs, but to each their own.

If I was going for the more traditional /4 look with a bit more 'pop' I'd highly polish the petals and lip, then paint the relief with Rustoleum Brilliant Silver Metallic.

I would agree with Mark. My personal preference for 2.0 Fuchs is the "stock" look albeit clean and polished so they stand out. It's on my to-do list, but may not make it to the top for a while :D

Aside: y'all are lucky there's no Spring yet in Canada. Mark's spending time here helping us out instead of driving...

I agree, I like the polished look. BUT......I am working on a 71 right now, and Im gonna black out all the chrome trim, tint the windows as dark as legal, add a rear spoiler in black, and I have a set of FUCHs on the car, one side is polished, the other side is polished and black. the polished and black fits the look much better. so I know its not original or classic, but it does depend on the cars color scheme. IMHO

Jim

That's why I asked about the black 3M vinyl. I'm not sure about the black out. But paint is just paint. I think I'm going to polish the petals and repaint the silver as suggested and see how I like that before I decide on the black. A staged and measured approach may be the approach.

Mark

A measured strategy is good. I assume you've already looked here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=porsche+fuchs+wheel&biw=1401&bih=916&sour ce=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj_y_SUnObLAhXFOCY KHb0DA3kQ_AUIBygC#q=porsche+fuchs+wheel&tbm=isch&p ws=1

S

Before I go further:
 

I started the "dipping" process and did one wheel, so far. Not sure it's turning out right so here I am. I couldn't find crystal lye but researching brings up crystal Drano which appears to be the same. I did a 20 minute soak last night then rinsed to check on it. I did another 25 minute soak today and this is what I have. I looks like the silver is coming off. Correct? The wheel on the left is the treated one (not how I expected it). The right is original:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459560708.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459560771.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459560835.jpg
Should I soak more?

Looking at the draino ingredients that's not 100% Sodium hydroxide. you don't have a Lowes near you?
Shop Roebic Laboratories, Inc. 32-oz Drain Cleaner Crystals at Lowes.com

You haven't removed all the anodizing, up your time or the lye.

Yea, I did go to Lowes and asked for crystal lye (in the paint department). Two guys weren't sure what it was and looked over the paint remover and related chemicals and said, that's all they had. I think I was in the wrong department.
I'll increase time and mix ratio today and report back soon. Thanks Mark Henry~!! I know now, I'm going in the right direction....

Thing is it's not pure lye (Sodium hydroxide), when I researched this 100% lye was key.

This is a dealer list of the roebic product, but there must be other products that are pure lye.

Where To Buy | ROEBIC Laboratories, Inc. - The Septic Professionals

I "think" I may be going back to Lowes today? Yesterday, I increased the soak time and a little stronger Drano mix. Seems like more anodizing came off but not sure if I'm going too far? The red lines are showing the difference in finish (not all removed?)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459706206.jpg

Look at post #20, there shouldn't be a blotchy finish left, but it may turn dark. Five minutes with a scotch brite pad should clean it up. You can go straight to polish from here.

Be aware that I was dipping the whole rim face in a tray, post #19. make sure it's a plastic tray.