I've been working on them:
 

I found the harsh cleaners at Lowes but still no Lye Crstals. So, I boosted up the drano and got something similar to the #20 post. I also got the same bubbling action as the previosu post. So, today I did the scotch brite pad, polishing the inner spokes with the sidel (cloth) wheel and the spokes with a power polisher. Here are the results. They look OK? Jury is still out with me:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459908378.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459908444.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459908500.jpg

I can see the potential! keep going!

1500 then 2000 sandpaper will smooth out all the scratches and make them pop! or you might try the polishing wheel. Harbor freight has a nice cheap kit, come with the three polishing compounds and buffing wheels. you will be glad you did! then of course you need to protect them from oxidation. Good luck!

Po did these and they look verrry good. However there are still some visible sanding marks on lip. I have been able to hand polish some of it away and they are undectable by running a fingernail accross the lip.

Can i just add power to take me all the way? I was thinking mothers powerball or cone with mag polish. Since i was able to get rid of the marks by hand i figure the drill can only help. Thoughts?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459926251.jpg

Those look nice. again, if you have fine scratches you will be amazed at what 2000 grit sandpaper will do. but if you dont want to go that route, I suggest a polishing kit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459944553.png

I guess I am little bit nervous about hitting them with sand paper! Can you go directly from 2000 to mothers polish? Or do you need a subsequent grit?

2000 is not like any sandpaper you are used to. it is smooth. you can go from 2000 to 3000 but 3000 is more for polishing a clearcoat. I think if you buy some 2000 and try it on one little spot, you will be very pleased. mothers polish is good as it leaves a protective film, and removes oxidation, but will not likely remove scratches nearly as well as 1500 then 2000 sandpaper. IMHO

Looks like the 2000 is a winner. I dont think the po finished the job. On the left is wet sanding and then mothers on the right is what i started with. I wish I was brave enough to have tried the sandpaper last week... Would have save a TON of time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1460004692.jpg

:)

Life gets in the way but I pushed here and there and got the wheels done (finally). "BUT" a few will have to be re-done. I re-dipped a couple wheels since I liked the smoother flat look that it gave then polished all the spokes with 1000, 1200, 2000 then heavy polish compound then fine cut. They looked OK so I decided to call them "done". I sprayed a clear coat and took them to get the tires remounted. Then I noticed a crackling in the clear where I polished the spokes, in some areas. This photo really exaggerates it, from the flash. I will re-sand, and re-polish. I think one of the cleaners I used was trying to push through the clear.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1460599259.jpg

ouch! thats a shame! I did notice you skipped some grit sizes in your polishing steps. I would include 1500. In addtion, if you are going to paint/clear the wheels, you need to do that with NO POLISH on the surface. so if you polished them, that is likely why paint will not behave. if you plan to repeat the sanding and painting, I suggest you use a wax remover, then sand, then wax remover again, then paint. dont add polish if you want the paint to behave.

JK

After today, I'm not sure what's going on here. I was changing the shifter cover and decided to scrape the crinkled surface with my finger nail. It came off with "smooth" underneath. So, I think it may be mostly on the surface. I ran out of time today but will research and update soon.
Yea, Jim. I should get the 1500 sandpaper but I used what I had, handy. Next time.
Thanks!!