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Needed: Rear Alignment Shims
Not sure what sizes, maybe someone who has done this before can offer a little advice as to which ones are most commonly used... I'm trying to increase rear neg. camber for autocross.
Thanks!
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Nick Hallman '75 914 1.8 |
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shims
You remove the shims to gain camber in the rear.
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Right, but I know they come in 3 sizes, and I'm thinking, what if it has the largest one, should I take it out entirely or replace it with a smaller one? I want a lot of neg. camber but I don't want to overdo it... I have no idea how much camber I get by taking one of these guys out....
--Nick
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Nick Hallman '75 914 1.8 |
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camber
The ONLY way to tell how much camber you need for a particular application is to use a Pyrometer. You measure the heat across the foot of the tire and you can tell if you are over/under cambered or inflated properly. Too much camber will provide you with less performance as will too little.
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What's a good setup to start with?
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Nick Hallman '75 914 1.8 |
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camber
Too many variables. What tires, rim size, short track, long track, LSD?, HP, weight????? It is all trial and error. Set up for two exactly identical cars may vary depending on drivers style.
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Tires: Kumho Victoracer V700's, 5.5" rims, 205/50/15
HP/Weight: Stock 1.8 L, so +/- 2150lbs. and 76hp. Usage: autocross only Stock sways, no limited slip. I was told by someone to go for the max neg. camber, but that didn't seem like it was necessarily wise.
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Nick Hallman '75 914 1.8 |
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camber
Start out with one degree negative all the way around. Remember when you change the camber in the front, you have to reset the toe-in. It is always good to check the toe in in the rear also.
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All right, then... thanks. Any idea what number and sizes of shims I'll need to accomplish that, or will I be able to get away with just removing some? (Assuming it hasn't been changed from stock).
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Nick Hallman '75 914 1.8 |
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camber
If the shims are stock, you can get away with removing one at a time. The shims came in 2mm, 3mm, 4mm thickness, so you can get an exact camber setting providing you use a pyrometer or the old hand on the tire method.
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What I'm wondering is, will I run into a scenario where I remove a 4mm and it's too much, and I need to replace it with, say, a 2mm? In other words, will I be OK with just pulling some out, or do I need to have a few size on hand in case I need to mix and match?
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Nick Hallman '75 914 1.8 |
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shims
pull all of them out and lets see watcha got. The only thing is to scribe where the trailing arm is bolted down so you do not have to reset the toe-in.
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