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Adding the extra socket/bulb was the only hard(ish) part.
2 minutes per side with a stepper drill bit to make the hole big enough for the new bulb socket in the unused space. 10 minutes per side with a file making the lug slots for the new socket to slide in and twist in place. 15 minutes per side making the changes to wire the new socket into the harness. The actual bulbs were all plug and play. Take the old ones out, put the new LEDs in, and you are done. You do need to pick up an LED compatible relay for the turn signals/flashers but those are less than $5 at Autozone. I used the Novita-branded EP35 relay that someone else recommended in another thread. |
nice to see you're still in the game.
what are you gonna do with the GT headlights once your new front end is done... |
I got the engine to start last Saturday.
I should have drained the gas out of it when I pulled the original engine. Letting gas sit in the tank for almost 4 years is not good for the tank or fuel filter. |
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Things that make you go Hmmm.
The radiator stopped dripping water. There are no leaks in the coolant system. The coolant tank is full, the fans cycle on and off. No drips and the temp is good. I'm just wondering why the pinhole leak in the weld stopped dripping. Hmmm???? In other news, the exhaust is in with proper hangers. The interior is done for now. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1708664327.jpg |
But Houston, We have a problem.
I've got one of the belts too tight. It is whining a lot and this happened: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1708664447.jpg The round disk that seals up the rear of the lower balance shaft is vibrating and it has a small oil leak. I HATE oil leaks. |
how about this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1702099994.jpg |
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Nice interior.
This thread reminds me of how things should go theoretically, and how things go in reality. Looks like you are almost at the finish line at least. |
I am rebuilding my steering rack.
I took it apart and found a LOT of old grease and rust. It is a re-manufactured rack. The rod has some surface rust and pitting and the shuttle has some rust and pitting. Is this normal? Should I try to use a different rod and shuttle? I have another rack that I could tear down if I need too. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709253556.jpg |
I think whats happened here is that as that shaft wears, tiny microscopic particles come off the shaft and those itty bitty particles tend to rust even when not in a wet environment. I see this often when I'm working around a failed bearing that is indoors and no where near water but the rust leads one to believe there is water intrusion. such rust deposits are sometimes a way of locating a failed or failing bearing or other part due to lack of lube.
I'd clean the shaft up with emery cloth of appropriate grit and go through to finer grits until its smooth and shiny, re-grease and assemble. I think there was a previous post where a member was having trouble with his horn and found a worn plastic bushing in there was causing the shaft to become grounded and honk his horn so maybe there is a bushing that can be replaced. you cna check if there is a bushing you can just order. I doubt the shaft has lost enough dimension to really be a problem. If you like you can clean really well and fill with JB weld then polish to fill the pits, then re-polish, but it might not be really much of a problem, you probably dont need to. I have a lathe so I'd be tempted to maybe try to make a bushing from newer materials that are like a hard plastic but self lubricating, Such material may contain graphite so could check electrical conductivity to be sure it's insulated if it needs to be. lubriplate ( lithium) grease might be ok in there.. |
I used progressively finer sandpaper and got rid of 99% of the rust and roughness on the rod and shuttle in the steering rack
The steering rack is back together with the exception of one gasket for the small port on the front that is covered by the metal plate. I mounted the oil cooler where the passenger side driving light would go. I wanted driving lights so I went looking on ebay. This is what I came up with. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709531156.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709531156.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709531156.jpg |
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I have no idea why the lights look green in a couple pictures.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709531456.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709531456.jpg |
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The strut bar is almost done.Some paint chipped on one end so I've got to redo it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709532145.jpg |
I lost the original strut bar bolts when I moved. Luckily, I was able to find some suitable replacements in my junk hardware bin.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709532513.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709532513.jpg . |
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I just noticed that the cut line on the drivers side where I cut out the driving light enclosure is not straight like the passenger side.
That would drive me nuts. Time to pull it back apart and fix it. I've just got a aluminum cover behind that opening now. I could add another oil cooler there if I need to. The to-do list keeps getting shorter despite these things I keep adding as I go. The car will be done and driving in time for 944 West at the end of April. Who else is going to 944West? |
Car is looking real good Eric. The love is showing in the details. Trying to figure out your tuen signals. Are they switchbacks? Superbright LED sells switchbacks that stay on one color, then flash yellow then turn back solid. I use them on my tacoma.
Ps. The first cab I tried to buy was white. I was an hour to slow making a decision and then the black one showed up. |
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