My Car needs lots of work!!!!! HELP!!

Macfreak007 · 06-12-2003, 04:32 PM

So I took my car in to the shop, I have had it for maybe 3 months, I wanted an alignment, brake pad change, and oil change here is what they came up w/.:

1. Needs 4 Rotors and brake pads ( all worn down to almost nothing)
2. Needs Inner tie rods, outer optional ( the inner ones are broken)
3. Belts Craked, needs serpentine, v-belts, and drive belts
4. Needs fuel filter ( currernt one is 8 years old)
5. PLUS...oil change, lube job, alignment, and coolant flush.
I was quoted about $2,050 for everything including labor
What do you think? is this reasonable? should I just get rid of the car? ( I only paid $1500 for it, but it had new clutch, head job, and timing belt so thats all good. I am just really mad that I didn't find this out sooner, I have put so much work into my car so far. Ideas anyone?

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Do they work yourself, get your parts from Pelican and cut that number in 1/3.

Roger Hall · 06-12-2003, 04:42 PM

Except for the tie rods and rotors its all PM and should be done regulary. The PM parts are easy to replace yourself and cheap. I would do that work myself.

I have never replaced the rotors on a Porsche but on my other cars its an easy job and never cost more than $150. Again that is doing the work youself.

I cant comment on the tie rods since I have never had to do this job. If you can do the work yourself then keep the car, but if you plan on waiting another 8 years to replace the fuel filter I would probably sell it.

carsontc · 06-12-2003, 04:43 PM

do you have the paper work for the 'work' that was just done?

can you bring it to that shop and get a second opinion?

Macfreak007 · 06-12-2003, 04:53 PM

Well by "the work" I mean more just physical things, rebuilding the powersteering pump and rack, and fixing everything electrical one the car, the electrical stuff is what I am good w/ but I can do the PM and maybe the rotors and brakepads

Macfreak007 · 06-12-2003, 04:56 PM

can I do the belts myself too?

Moneyguy1 · 06-12-2003, 05:21 PM

Most of what you describe, for the age of the car, is what I would consider "routine". Consider the following: You paid $1500 for the car, and the majority of what is wrong with it can be fixed for an additional $2000. Where can you get a good looking vehicle that will make you grin every time you drive it for under $4000? (leaving a little slack in there for unknowns). The problem is you have to stay on top of routine maintenance and wear items or it does seem to hit "all at once". If you feel competent to do some of the work yourself, snag a Haynes manual and at least do the brakes. Piece of cake.

Tie rods can be done by the iwner, but as with any suspension work, the car will have to have an alignment afterward. Good ones can be had used for a fraction of new. Might want to check the ball joints as well. Since yours is an "early" model, the ball joints can be done at home; the Haynes manual tells you how in gory detail.

Fuel filter, oil change; small potatoes. They should be done on a regular basis anyway.

Finally, verify the other work you say was done prior to purchase. A broken timing belt will bite you in the a$$ for about $1200 for a valve job. This can be done by an experienced owner, but it is not the easiest of repairs for the novice!!

Britwrench · 06-12-2003, 05:22 PM

Was this a shop familiar with Porsche vehicles?
If not, find one that is. DO NOT go to shops that are unaware of the correct service and repair procedures of 944 models.
Yes, you could do most of this yourself. If you do not have the time or tools for the belt change, get that work done at a good shop.
The total estimate you were given doesn't sound off the mark.

ae1969 · 06-12-2003, 06:35 PM

You have less than 1000 in parts..............

and if you can do the work........thats a hell of a car for $2500 in to it!

Then she is going to be good for a long time.....just keep up with the scheduled maintenance!!

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Do the timing belts first then the brakes.

I think "serpentine belt" means the timing and the counter balance belts

The rotors and pads are no sweat items (except for the cost of parts!!!)

You can throw a cheap set of pads on for now until you get the $$$ for the rotors. Then do the fronts first.

As to steering and suspension; you didn't notice that the inner tie rods were bad when you rebuilt the steering rack?

MrPants · 06-13-2003, 02:36 AM

how did the rack rebuilding go for you? do you regret doing it? im trying to decide if i want to tacle rebuilding or just buy a rebuilt rack

carsontc · 06-13-2003, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SoCal Driver
I think "serpentine belt" means the timing and the counter balance belts

if the head was recently done you would replace old belts - so why does it need replacing so soon?

and 4 rotors? how often have does that happen? unless you want cross drilled all around

this doesn't pass the sniff test

AFJuvat · 06-13-2003, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Britwrench
Was this a shop familiar with Porsche vehicles?
If not, find one that is. DO NOT go to shops that are unaware of the correct service and repair procedures of 944 models.
Yes, you could do most of this yourself. If you do not have the time or tools for the belt change, get that work done at a good shop.
The total estimate you were given doesn't sound off the mark.

Agree. Price doesn't seem that far out of line.

AFJuvat

Macfreak007 · 06-13-2003, 08:02 AM

woops sorry it doesn't need timing belt or those it just need the drive belt or belts outside of the black case (in front orf the engine) and when rebuilding the steering rack I didn't figure out that the inner tie rods were so bad, but yeah I am actually gonna let them do the brakes because they may need new calipers

TNT25169 · 06-13-2003, 08:16 AM

The a/c compressor belt and the power steering belt are the two in front of the cam cover. They are easy to adjust and change assuming no one has broken the adjuster rob or broken it off. I adjusted both of mine last week when I put a new a/c compressor in and both of my robs were broken so i order 2 used ones from dcautomotive. If the adjusters work you can loosen the eye bolts on the very ends and then loosen the ones that keep the robs tight. If you don't loosen the bolts on the end, you will break the bolt. Remove the ajuster rod and then your a/c conpressor should move enough for you to be able to get the belt off. It's pretty much the same thing for the power steering but the bolts on top of the power steering mechanism must be loosened for the belt to come loose. I don't know if this makes any sense. If you have a haynes manual you can look in there or if you just look at the car from underneath with some light it's pretty self explanitory.

Macfreak007 · 06-13-2003, 08:19 AM

well thats good to hear TNT, has anyone ever doen their own fuel filter? how is that?

Bob's944 · Bob's944's Garage

The fuel filter is located under the car, just behind the passenger side rear wheel. It looks like a soup can sized metal canister with the fuel line going in and out the ends. I bought mine at a local parts store for about $16 and it was in stock. Use flare wrenches for removing it to prevent stripping the nuts, and some kind of thread sealer for putting back together.

MrPants · 06-13-2003, 02:37 PM

also "PB penetratying catalyst" or some other rust destroyer will be very helpful to prevent stripping the nuts (hehe stripping the nuts...)

Macfreak007 · 06-13-2003, 08:42 PM

Thanks everyone for you perfect insight, this has really helped me a ton, This is why I love pelican so much its just an awesome community with tons of great people willing to help