Clutch Job Problem

[Scott R]

Started my clutch job this weekend. Took me about 3 hours to get the tranny out and the torque tube pushed back, and the bell housing bolts, etc. But now I am stuck. The dowel rod that goes through the shift fork won't come out! I have tried a slide hammer and a lot of pulling with no success. Anyone have any ideas as to how I can get this thing out?

[Mrmerlin]

Originally posted by Scott R:
Started my clutch job this weekend. Took me about 3 hours to get the tranny out and the torque tube pushed back, and the bell housing bolts, etc. But now I am stuck. The dowel rod that goes through the shift fork won't come out! I have tried a slide hammer and a lot of pulling with no success. Anyone have any ideas as to how I can get this thing out?

Hi Scott get some PB Blaster and soak the rod then get some washers and a thin walled deep socket to fit over the end of the rod and a long bolt put the bolt thru the washers and the socket around the protruding tube and tighten the bolt it will pull the rod out now you will need to change the washers as the tube moves also if this is extremly hard then you might need to do some heating with a propane torch the aluminum will heat up faster then the metal make shure you have a fire extinguisher avail able, when this rod comes out you might find that it has grooves on one side from the roller bearings running on it if you want to use this rod again grind another flat surface for the lock screw to seat on and put the rod back in with it turned to the new position......Stan

[Scott R]

So your screwing the 8mm bolt in like .25 of the way in, then bracing the bolt against the socket and washer and turning the bolt in in an attempt to pull the rod out? I hope I have this correct. This is such a stupid problem to be hanging me up.

[Mrmerlin]

Originally posted by Scott R:
Started my clutch job this weekend. Took me about 3 hours to get the tranny out and the torque tube pushed back, and the bell housing bolts, etc. But now I am stuck. The dowel rod that goes through the shift fork won't come out! I have tried a slide hammer and a lot of pulling with no success. Anyone have any ideas as to how I can get this thing out?

Hi Scott yes the bolt will be pulling the rod out of the housing this is the best way to move the rod if it is being stubborn.....Stan

[Cake944]

I would NOT reccomend heating the bell housing. Some people have trouble seeing when aluminum melts (at only 800-900 F.) and that could cause you a real mess. Just use a bolt with a washer on it to pull. I used a pry bar against one of the starter bolts that was in the hole. Use plenty of penetrating fluid. Good Luck.

[asidrave]

Hey Scott. if needed, i have a bell housing for sale if you cannot get the shaft out of yours.

[Mrmerlin]

Originally posted by Cake944:
I would NOT reccomend heating the bell housing. Some people have trouble seeing when aluminum melts (at only 800-900 F.) and that could cause you a real mess. Just use a bolt with a washer on it to pull. I used a pry bar against one of the starter bolts that was in the hole. Use plenty of penetrating fluid. Good Luck.

Hi Cake if you use a propane torch you wont have any problem with meltin of the aluminum bits..that is the kind of torch I was talking about must not have said that tho..stan

[Scott R]

Thanks for all the help!!!! I came right out using washers and a piece of copper plumbing pipe that I had in the garage. I shouldnt say "right out" it fought me the whole way. In then end I was able to get the bell housing off and was amazed to find that my factory original rubber center clutch was completely seperated, and large chunks of it were all over the place! Next question the flywheel looks to be in ok condition, but there is melted rubber everywhere, would you guys go ahead and have it surfaced? I already have it off, since I was checking the fly seal.

[lordgrommit]

for the gunk on the flywheel I used heavy duty rubbing compound on it and the rubber just came right off and the flywheel was in great shape..

Matt

[Scott R]

So you recommend not surfacing?

[Cake944]

Since you took off the flywheel, are you going to replace the pilot bearing. It would be a good idea since everything is off and the do not cost that much. Shop around. Also, it is a good idea to replace the flywheel bolts. They get some stress and sometimes the heads get stripped out. I think that they are only a few dollars at places like Vertex. Watch out for the credit card surcharge.

[Cake944]

Originally posted by Cake944:
I would NOT reccomend heating the bell housing. Some people have trouble seeing when aluminum melts (at only 800-900 F.) and that could cause you a real mess. Just use a bolt with a washer on it to pull. I used a pry bar against one of the starter bolts that was in the hole. Use plenty of penetrating fluid. Good Luck.

My mistake, aluminum melts at closer to 1200 F. A propane torch would work just fine. Sometimes my brain gets stuck.



[This message has been edited by Cake944 (edited 05-01-2001).]

[Scott R]

It's ok. I have the flywheel at the machine shop now, it will be ready tomorrow. I will ask them to press a new pilot bearing in as well. As you have all said it would be terrible to have to go back in there once it's all back together. I am slo worried about my shift fork, the ends are a little chewed up where it meets the throwout bearing. Anyone have to replace these as well?

[justin]

Hey Scott, I would try to replace everything you can while your in there....just think about it like this it's cheap insurance.

------------------
Drive it like you stole it........Justin

[Cake944]

I had trouble with the clutch-pilot bearing alignment the first time I did it. Of course I had a few beers in me, so that is where I may have lost some concentration. Anyway, use a clutch alignment tool and leave it in for as long as you can. If it is done right the first time, the drive shaft will slip right in.

[asidrave]

when i did my clutch i had some troubleto put on the shaft through the clutch and into the flywheel. what i did was, with a big screwdriver release the clutch using the screwdriver to pry the clutch fork to open and i had a friend push the shaft. it went right in.

[Scott R]

Thats tonight! I will pick the flywheel up on my way home and install in and the disc and pressure plate. I purchased an alignment tool from Pelican when I ordered the clutch. I never do a clutch without it. By far this has been one of the more difficult clutches I have ever installed. That damn ground strap on top of the bellhousing!

[T86951]

Don't forget to hook up your ground strap before starting the car. One other memeber started their car without it hooked up after a clutch job and his car won't run now. He thinks that may have blown his DME.
Make sure the machine shop surfaced your flywheel smooth cause modern clutch material need smooth surfaces.
While you have the flywhell off check your back crankshaft seal. Good time to replace it!

[Scott R]

Put a brand new in just last night! It was leaking bad.

[Mrmerlin]

Originally posted by Scott R:
Thats tonight! I will pick the flywheel up on my way home and install in and the disc and pressure plate. I purchased an alignment tool from Pelican when I ordered the clutch. I never do a clutch without it. By far this has been one of the more difficult clutches I have ever installed. That damn ground strap on top of the bellhousing!

Hi Bro I hope this is not too late but the pilot bearing is pressed into the end of the crankshaft not the flywheel, if you have limited space you can use Hydraulics to remove it you will need about 3 tbs. of wheel bearing grease and a big hammer and a pilot tool that fits tight into the bearing center...fill the opening with grease till it is full take the pilot tool and slide it in to the pilot brng hit it with a hammer and the brg should come right on out, make shure to grease the clutch fork brgs and polish the clutch rod that you had a hard time removing and coat this with grease also. and of course replace the rear main seal.........good luck.....Stan